Dpate

I figured since you already answered the question just right that i would throw in a extra lol. I should of been more specific.

You should try mr hobby self leveling thinner with tamiya even with there acrylic line. Amazing stuff! Tamiya's own thinner works just fine too.

Yeah the mascot car for BMF

Where did you see that at?

Probably old and worn out like AMT's molds are lol

If there old kits and not recently reissued kits. I would try using decal film on the entire decal sheet (follow directions on bottle) and than do the normal routine, but instead of putting micro set on first and than the decal just keep using water to get the decal where it needs to be either with finger or decal tweezers. THAN use the set & or sole which ever brand you use.

X is for gloss or semi gloss. XF is for flat. TS both semi gloss & gloss is there lacquer in the can. LP is there lacquer in the bottles like X/XF. AS is mainly for aircraft. There enamel line up is X for gloss or semi gloss and XF for flat etc .

Yeah there XF set is hybrid and LP are true lacquer. Can be thinned with mr leveling thinner.

Green stuff world, Alcad, Spaztix. If the surface is done right and the black base is right any one of the 3 will give you identical results that will be hard to tell apart. All 3 are amazing if the part there going on is perfect and the black base is perfect. Spaz is amazing especially for the price @ $12 for a bottle at hobby town for a 2oz bottle compared too what you would pay for 2oz of alclad.

You don't need to use dawn to remove dust when washing the body

You should apply your method too a spoon without using the dawn and see if the same thing happens. If same thing happens try a different clear doing same method on a different spoon.

He should just put all the bad foil on a discount and sell all the new foil original price of course. We will buy the new foil regardless if the old is on discount. The old will still sell.

Great info there. I guess I was ill informed on what i read about this stuff. I've read it as an oil based product and wouldn't work on lacquer etc without damaging it. So its safe on everything except anything enamel & chrome like alclad etc?

That's sweet! But how much shipment coming in before it's out again? lol

Yeah i have the tamiya panel line accent stuff myself but I've yet to use it. I'm probably gonna use it for my gundam and zoid kits. For what i do and the type paint i use tamiya panel line stuff is a no go on my car models because it's a oil based paint. I'm gonna get some good quality water based black paint and thin it down really good with some distilled water.

Airbrush discussions are like talking about politics lol. But I'll list these brands for you too do your research on. Paasche h. Iwata eclipse, Procon boy 280, Procon boy 290. Air compressor to go along with it would be the No name brand tooty from spraygunner. Amazing air compressor for the money. Either way $250-little over $300 to get you in the door. Better than starting the super cheap route and using a bad quality brush and hate it all together. When i first started in the hobby a year ago i started with the Iwata eclipse to learn on having never air brushed my entire life. Easy to learn & difficult to master along with technique and good habits. You will also have to learn how to thin paint etc if you don't already know how. There are alot of air brush ready paints like scalefinishes, etc to use on the market, but still learning too thin paint is a skill set on its own lol.

Do you like it better than other chromes on the market?

Don't really need a clear base coat. Works over gloss black base. I have seen this before unsure about it considering the results i get with everything else.

Yeah I've seen that picture of the GT4 and i have the proper color for it from gravity colors. So I'm guessing the carbon fiber is just a custom option. Still trying to decide if the hassle of full carbon decals is worth it over the beautiful grey.

Yeah the alcohol basically dries up the varnish and makes it fall off. Whatever doesn't fall over is easily just pulled off with tweezers. I usually put parts in a mason jar capped so i can give them a good swoosh around here and there. I' am thinking about actually using my ultrasonic cleaner that i use for dechroming and after the dechroming clean it out and use it for alcohol bath.

Yes i mention in my post i purchased that.

Yeah with clears especially like 2K clears you wanna lay a light tac coat so the other coats have something to stick too better. You don't have to do heavy coats of clear though. I use a lot of scale finishes base coat paints and with there paint and your choice of clear coat you could be done painting and clear coating in like 2 hours. Gravity colors(spain) 2K is a awesome clear too. You don't have to do mist coats and wait days before doing wet coats that's just silly. A tac coat is just that a tacky coat. After 10-15 mins it should be ready for your next coats. This is speaking based on 2K clears because I've never used tamiya's clear before.

Only issue with older kits when it comes to stripping the chrome is the underlayer can be annoying. The chrome is easy to come off using 100% lye which is what i use cause it's cheaper. Use to use super clean which works but can stain the varnish under the chrome sometimes. Sometimes 100% lye wont even take the varnish off unless it's in a ultrasonic cleaner with heat, but still takes a long time. So the solution i came up with was letting the parts that aren't free of varnish sit in 91% alcohol and it works a charm. Alclad is more durable and cheaper than molotow, BUT it is still fragile. I think Spaz stix is way more durable than alclad, and green stuff world along with others. Spaz stix you can find at hobbytown near the RC cars. $13 for a bottle that would last you a year or more depending on how much chroming you do lol.

Alclad you would need a gloss black base and Molotow you wouldn't really need one, but both will produce a mirror like shine if done right. If you didn't want to clean the parts by stripping the chrome etc and rechroming than molotow would be your best bet if you're just wanting to recoat. Molotow can go on anything and give you a chrome finish. I think it's more a ink than anything.

Well you don't really need a undercoat with alclad besides there gloss black base or any good gloss black base except tamiya's acrylic X1. Unless you've done sanding than sure a good primer sanding down smooth before gloss black base. I've never airbrushed molotov but people that have had good results with it. I own several brands of chrome and just like many metallic metals similar too chrome they all act the same - meaning you must have a smooth gloss black surface and you must mist the paint on light mists coats (12-18PSI). You don't spray chrome etc like you do color coats. If you're spraying it right you'll start to see dust build up on the part, and does make it little hard to know when too stop. It just takes some practice and getting a good chrome shiny finish isn't that hard. You basically need good lighting and soon as you get that mirror look where you can see yourself - than maybe one more mist coat. You're really not putting down a lot of paint at all. I always use a dehydrator and cotton gloves when handling chrome parts. Honestly one of my favorite things to do in the hobby lol is using chrome. Dunno about clear coating though never tried to do that usually the chrome itself is pretty durable especially spaztix.