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Everything posted by Dpate
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Been waiting for someone to get this. Let us know how it is? I've been eye balling it for AWHILE now. I got mengs new BMW kit for $65 instead of the OG price so i couldn't get this kit yet. I LOVE moebius kits. I think i have 1 or 2 tamiya kits that had the sprue gate at the lip of the rim, but every other tamiya, aoshima, hasagawa, etc that i have doesn't and it will spoil you lol. Revells new tooled porche has the sprue gate attached to the bottom of the rim and i was blown away when i opened the box and seen it. It's easy to mess up a rim if you aren't careful especially if the gate is thick it's like molded into the rim itself and just messes the whole rim up.
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What did you see on the road today?
Dpate replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
What ISN'T illegal in cali lol. -
Yes micro mark starting at 6000 and up is different. Below though its like starting with 1500 if you start at 3200. I'd be very hard pressed to see a difference in two exact same bodies, but one body sanded to 12000G, and the other just sanding with 600-800G. Than both primer coats nice and smooth and than color and 2K coat. You could take a body and sand it with 600 & 800 grit and than primer and sand primer with 3KG and 5kG if needed, and than paint and 2k clear. I doubt there would be any difference at all to warrant the effort. I guess with enamels it's different cause it already has it's nice gloss finish to it. You're sanding and polishing that instead of laying down a clear coat. P.S there is no 80K grit. I was just being a smarta$$ lol
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Creating a unfinished looking weld
Dpate replied to cobraman's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
They actually sell photo etch parts that have the weld look -
You can get a finish like he does if you sand the body up to 80K grit, and than sand and compound and polish if needed.
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I wish companies would start putting the gate attachments on the bottom of the rim edge instead of the actual lip of the rim. One of the biggest pet peeves i have in this hobby when it comes to kits.
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Na some do have free shipping. I've seen some with $3 shipping lol. I remember ordering the Meng BMW bike off ebay from china and it took probably bout 3 or so weeks to come in.
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This! I've bought $20 kits that they charge like $70 for in the states. Reason i don't do to many local shops. Rip offs like micro mark the rip off specialists.
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I know plaza japan shipping is pretty high to the states about $67 fedex shipping on $110 worth of kits and the like. I love plaza japan though there awesome.
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What Did You Accomplish Today? (Model Car Work)
Dpate replied to Snake45's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Yes the black rims look much better with that color. What rims are those before you painted them black? I finally got this kit myself think i paid around $50 for it, but didn't care cause i LOVE the body style of the merc. Straight up chick magnet bro. Also is that a house of colors paint from scale finishes? -
Maroon plastic bleed through?
Dpate replied to jaymcminn's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Mr. Hobby makes a primer called base white that's made basically like there primer, but it's for covering dark plastic. -
The notorious Revell 29 A part # 50
Dpate replied to customline's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I had checked my kit and mine was warped too. Not as bad as I've seen here, but it was still warped. My replacement parts came in today and i should of took a picture, but it's perfect - they also sent extra set of glass parts too and i didn't even ask for that lol. -
Embossing Powder to match Insignia Red?
Dpate replied to crowe-t's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Ranger makes good embossing powder, but for that i think you're best to use white and than paint it red without hosing it on. -
Yeah he's a good person for the community and even has his own paint line out through MCW. I don't take all his advice to the head, but a lot of his advice is great. I wish he'd change it up a bit though and do some kits etc instead of paint, paint, paint, paint. Far as spoons go you can sand them down and primer and than color test. But i mainly use spoons too test if my mix is right.
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Dunno who there supplier is, but if you check out this link you'll see how they come. Even aoshima etc come the same way. https://www.plazajapan.com/4526175200275/?setCurrencyId=6
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If you ordered it off ebay depending on the seller and where he got it from. I know if you order kits from plazajapan they will come without shrink wrap and tape. You can see the contents right on the site before you order the kit. I've had my eyes on that kit for awhile myself just haven't gotten it yet.
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Alternatives to Tamiya Fine Surface Primer?
Dpate replied to DanR's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Than I'd give hobby titan a try. 400ML can for around $16 and it dries and self levels and sands beautifully. I love there matt black primer i will usually use that for chassis and such because the finish is that nice. It's more expensive than Mr hobby and tamiya primers, but you get 400ML compared to 170ml or less for a couple more bucks. -
Alternatives to Tamiya Fine Surface Primer?
Dpate replied to DanR's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You can order Mr surfacer online if you can't get it locally. Hobby titan primer is amazing, Mr.surfacer is fantastic too, alclads primer is great as well. -
Never used those clears before as i use 2K clear. Unless you lay down 3 coats of perfect clear you'll have to sand. How much sanding you have to do depends on how many imperfections you have in the clear. If you lay down a perfect clear coat you could go straight too polish and wax and be done. I would use micro mesh starting at 6000 because below that is basically 1500grit and below. You could start with 2K grit from 3M, than 3K grit, and than 5K grit if needed. Good quality compound, polish, wax, and you're golden. Even with clear in rattle cans the methods are still the same though. The finer grit you start with though is less work you got to do. Start at 2K grit(Go to 1500 if needed), 3K grit, 5K grit, and if you want you could than go 6K, and 8K from micro mesh, and by that time you could probably skip compound and go straight to polish and wax.
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I don't mind little work here and there, and for what i paid for the kit it should of been much better molding than what i got old or not. The worst flash I've ever seen on a kit so far, dents in the body, even the hood had major gaps etc etc. It's not worth the effort when there are better versions of the same model lol. I'll use the kit for testing paint on and etc. Also saying saying "invest a little time" is a understatement lol. I'm just not going to torture myself like that and if that doesn't make me a skilled modeler than so be it. I rather invest my time in other skills in the hobby than waste my limited time on a box full of badly molded plastic that they even had the audacity to release.
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Ak Interactive Paint Stripper
Dpate replied to 69NovaYenko's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I have this and been testing it. Mainly got it to try and remove the varnish under chrome parts after removing the chrome. Works like a charm. -
Ultra Glue acrylic by AMMO for photo etch & Clear parts
Dpate replied to Dpate's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
It's bout the same. You can thin it with water if you need too as well. Gives you about 3 mins work time to move stuff around before it gets a strong hold.