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Everything posted by Dpate
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I know plaza japan shipping is pretty high to the states about $67 fedex shipping on $110 worth of kits and the like. I love plaza japan though there awesome.
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What Did You Accomplish Today? (Model Car Work)
Dpate replied to Snake45's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Yes the black rims look much better with that color. What rims are those before you painted them black? I finally got this kit myself think i paid around $50 for it, but didn't care cause i LOVE the body style of the merc. Straight up chick magnet bro. Also is that a house of colors paint from scale finishes? -
Maroon plastic bleed through?
Dpate replied to jaymcminn's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Mr. Hobby makes a primer called base white that's made basically like there primer, but it's for covering dark plastic. -
The notorious Revell 29 A part # 50
Dpate replied to customline's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I had checked my kit and mine was warped too. Not as bad as I've seen here, but it was still warped. My replacement parts came in today and i should of took a picture, but it's perfect - they also sent extra set of glass parts too and i didn't even ask for that lol. -
Embossing Powder to match Insignia Red?
Dpate replied to crowe-t's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Ranger makes good embossing powder, but for that i think you're best to use white and than paint it red without hosing it on. -
Yeah he's a good person for the community and even has his own paint line out through MCW. I don't take all his advice to the head, but a lot of his advice is great. I wish he'd change it up a bit though and do some kits etc instead of paint, paint, paint, paint. Far as spoons go you can sand them down and primer and than color test. But i mainly use spoons too test if my mix is right.
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Dunno who there supplier is, but if you check out this link you'll see how they come. Even aoshima etc come the same way. https://www.plazajapan.com/4526175200275/?setCurrencyId=6
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If you ordered it off ebay depending on the seller and where he got it from. I know if you order kits from plazajapan they will come without shrink wrap and tape. You can see the contents right on the site before you order the kit. I've had my eyes on that kit for awhile myself just haven't gotten it yet.
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Alternatives to Tamiya Fine Surface Primer?
Dpate replied to DanR's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Than I'd give hobby titan a try. 400ML can for around $16 and it dries and self levels and sands beautifully. I love there matt black primer i will usually use that for chassis and such because the finish is that nice. It's more expensive than Mr hobby and tamiya primers, but you get 400ML compared to 170ml or less for a couple more bucks. -
Alternatives to Tamiya Fine Surface Primer?
Dpate replied to DanR's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You can order Mr surfacer online if you can't get it locally. Hobby titan primer is amazing, Mr.surfacer is fantastic too, alclads primer is great as well. -
Never used those clears before as i use 2K clear. Unless you lay down 3 coats of perfect clear you'll have to sand. How much sanding you have to do depends on how many imperfections you have in the clear. If you lay down a perfect clear coat you could go straight too polish and wax and be done. I would use micro mesh starting at 6000 because below that is basically 1500grit and below. You could start with 2K grit from 3M, than 3K grit, and than 5K grit if needed. Good quality compound, polish, wax, and you're golden. Even with clear in rattle cans the methods are still the same though. The finer grit you start with though is less work you got to do. Start at 2K grit(Go to 1500 if needed), 3K grit, 5K grit, and if you want you could than go 6K, and 8K from micro mesh, and by that time you could probably skip compound and go straight to polish and wax.
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I don't mind little work here and there, and for what i paid for the kit it should of been much better molding than what i got old or not. The worst flash I've ever seen on a kit so far, dents in the body, even the hood had major gaps etc etc. It's not worth the effort when there are better versions of the same model lol. I'll use the kit for testing paint on and etc. Also saying saying "invest a little time" is a understatement lol. I'm just not going to torture myself like that and if that doesn't make me a skilled modeler than so be it. I rather invest my time in other skills in the hobby than waste my limited time on a box full of badly molded plastic that they even had the audacity to release.
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Ak Interactive Paint Stripper
Dpate replied to 69NovaYenko's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I have this and been testing it. Mainly got it to try and remove the varnish under chrome parts after removing the chrome. Works like a charm. -
Ultra Glue acrylic by AMMO for photo etch & Clear parts
Dpate replied to Dpate's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
It's bout the same. You can thin it with water if you need too as well. Gives you about 3 mins work time to move stuff around before it gets a strong hold. -
More like obtain people cause they rip folks off lol.
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There's better primers available than have to do all that.
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I think you're talking about the USA version of gravity colours and if they are than it's about time. Gravity colours spain is the one you want.
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So the kit I'm working on is a "Test" kit that I'm trying alot of different products on. This product I've had for awhile and i think it is fantastic. Basically lay it down put your clear or photo etch down and it'll dry clear in 6 hours. I usually let it dry for awhile and than start using water to clean up around the edges. If you wait full 6 hours its a little tougher to remove, but all it takes is water to remove and can be thinned. Here's a few pics and yeah i need to clean up my desk lol. Yes i know there is canopy glue and other great products out there, but i figure i'd mentioned this one.
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I own it but haven't used it yet had got it free with a order. I love there paint, but i wont be buying the enamel base again. The base coats are fantastic though perfect for 2K clear coat. Bought chevy engine orange enamel, and it was still tacky after 3 weeks and that's even after being baked for few hours after first painting. It's actually still tacky as of today too so i don't know what went wrong. Maybe i sprayed it wrong? About your question though never had that issue with any primer I've ever used.
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Tamiya "no cement" instruction
Dpate replied to Superfishyall's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Is the front arms suppose to be able to move up and down? I think that's what its talking about is not gluing E1,E4,E17, and E18. That is confusing to me too, but i could be wrong. What ever goes in front might actually hold C4,and C6, and E18 in place. -
Best way to apply a black wash?
Dpate replied to Brandon Miller's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I used vallejos black wash for dark vehicles on this body. This kit im working on is a test kit using everything. -
Thanks man! My collection is pretty large when it comes to legos. Lost count how many sets i actually own between where i live and my hobby room at my parents place.
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