Dpate

Dunno who there supplier is, but if you check out this link you'll see how they come. Even aoshima etc come the same way. https://www.plazajapan.com/4526175200275/?setCurrencyId=6

If you ordered it off ebay depending on the seller and where he got it from. I know if you order kits from plazajapan they will come without shrink wrap and tape. You can see the contents right on the site before you order the kit. I've had my eyes on that kit for awhile myself just haven't gotten it yet.

Than I'd give hobby titan a try. 400ML can for around $16 and it dries and self levels and sands beautifully. I love there matt black primer i will usually use that for chassis and such because the finish is that nice. It's more expensive than Mr hobby and tamiya primers, but you get 400ML compared to 170ml or less for a couple more bucks.

You can order Mr surfacer online if you can't get it locally. Hobby titan primer is amazing, Mr.surfacer is fantastic too, alclads primer is great as well.

Never used those clears before as i use 2K clear. Unless you lay down 3 coats of perfect clear you'll have to sand. How much sanding you have to do depends on how many imperfections you have in the clear. If you lay down a perfect clear coat you could go straight too polish and wax and be done. I would use micro mesh starting at 6000 because below that is basically 1500grit and below. You could start with 2K grit from 3M, than 3K grit, and than 5K grit if needed. Good quality compound, polish, wax, and you're golden. Even with clear in rattle cans the methods are still the same though. The finer grit you start with though is less work you got to do. Start at 2K grit(Go to 1500 if needed), 3K grit, 5K grit, and if you want you could than go 6K, and 8K from micro mesh, and by that time you could probably skip compound and go straight to polish and wax.

I don't mind little work here and there, and for what i paid for the kit it should of been much better molding than what i got old or not. The worst flash I've ever seen on a kit so far, dents in the body, even the hood had major gaps etc etc. It's not worth the effort when there are better versions of the same model lol. I'll use the kit for testing paint on and etc. Also saying saying "invest a little time" is a understatement lol. I'm just not going to torture myself like that and if that doesn't make me a skilled modeler than so be it. I rather invest my time in other skills in the hobby than waste my limited time on a box full of badly molded plastic that they even had the audacity to release.

Don't know about that one but i can tell you DON'T BUY the 57 chevy bel air that just brought out recently. It's the worst excuse of a kit I've ever seen lol they should be ashamed of even releasing it. I'll never buy anything else from them even if it is a re release.

I have this and been testing it. Mainly got it to try and remove the varnish under chrome parts after removing the chrome. Works like a charm.

It's bout the same. You can thin it with water if you need too as well. Gives you about 3 mins work time to move stuff around before it gets a strong hold.

More like obtain people cause they rip folks off lol.

There's better primers available than have to do all that.

I think you're talking about the USA version of gravity colours and if they are than it's about time. Gravity colours spain is the one you want.

So the kit I'm working on is a "Test" kit that I'm trying alot of different products on. This product I've had for awhile and i think it is fantastic. Basically lay it down put your clear or photo etch down and it'll dry clear in 6 hours. I usually let it dry for awhile and than start using water to clean up around the edges. If you wait full 6 hours its a little tougher to remove, but all it takes is water to remove and can be thinned. Here's a few pics and yeah i need to clean up my desk lol. Yes i know there is canopy glue and other great products out there, but i figure i'd mentioned this one.

I own it but haven't used it yet had got it free with a order. I love there paint, but i wont be buying the enamel base again. The base coats are fantastic though perfect for 2K clear coat. Bought chevy engine orange enamel, and it was still tacky after 3 weeks and that's even after being baked for few hours after first painting. It's actually still tacky as of today too so i don't know what went wrong. Maybe i sprayed it wrong? About your question though never had that issue with any primer I've ever used.

Is the front arms suppose to be able to move up and down? I think that's what its talking about is not gluing E1,E4,E17, and E18. That is confusing to me too, but i could be wrong. What ever goes in front might actually hold C4,and C6, and E18 in place.

I used vallejos black wash for dark vehicles on this body. This kit im working on is a test kit using everything.

Thanks man! My collection is pretty large when it comes to legos. Lost count how many sets i actually own between where i live and my hobby room at my parents place.

Mr. Base white is an option too. It's a primer that's good for covering colored plastic. It's different than there regular primer.

Where did you get those? Are they still on pre-order?

That's what i was gonna say lol. Sometimes the journey and destination wont be good at all. Sometimes the journey is good until you realize you hit a roadblock and no matter you do trash is trash, and sometimes the the journey is awesome along with the destination when it all comes alive. Especially when your 1/24 or 25 scale car has a better clear coat than your 1:1 haha. But seriously though i love this hobby and what it's all about, but if something is trash it is what it is i keep some parts and trash the rest or use for test dummies for paint. I wont ever let a kit make me quit the hobby.

Slight scratches in the finish, but that red is popping man. What color red is that? Rough red or specific dealer red? Looks sharp! What you using for carpet? Bout looks better than regular method and less messy lol.

That stang is nice but that charger is BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!!

THAT needs to be made a kit from tamiya or meng or revell or moebius

Got to love kits like this and the folks that support kits like this cause that's what makes them "real" modelers in there in head. $15-$20 kit sure acceptable for its age etc and not this specific kit, but when they reissue junk and slap a $35-$40 tag on it than yes the complaints are valid and justified. Like saying the OP might be in the wrong hobby cause he says the kit is junk is crazy. But to each there own if you if you wanna take the time to modify or retool a kit to build it as its suppose to be than you do you. Lot of us aren't going to waste that kind of time or effort or paint or materials to do so cause at the end of the day it's just plastic, and there's better kits to put all said materials and effort into. It's not that alot of kits are old and or bad, but the prices aren't reflecting the quality we're getting. But i guess be happy and except what you get long as we're still getting kits as old as half the members here, and this is why I've never gotten this kit even when its at hobby lobby with 40% off sale. But classicgas you did do the kit justice and i respect that so hats off to ya.