Dpate

Yes all are AK and the spoon and hood is the ones i rubbed out. You can actually buff Alclad and spazstix pretty good without it coming off. This stuff doesn't dust up like those and really doesn't need a buffing - i was just trying it out too see if it could be buffed. I'm probably gonna do another test run and let it dry for least 8 hours or more and see if that helps it from rubbing off like it did. Even using your finger can take it off pretty easy. If i don't use this for actual parts i will def use it for emblems etc. This product does have a place in the hobby though not cause it's another chrome, but for folks who don't wanna deal with 2 separate products and save money over using molotow. I need little more practice with the AK stuff, because I'm so use to misting alclad or spaz over a black base and with this stuff you just airbrush it like regular paint. Also it doesn't sag and it self levels itself, but i think if i let it dry for a lot longer it may not come off as easy when rubbed.

Alright so i took parts from a random dump bin kit to test on and the results are great and not so great. I don't show all the parts, but they were not cleaned just wiped, and where not buffed to a gloss, and no primer or anything was used. Sprayed some at 15PSI and 20PSI really didn't make a difference. Also only dried for about 3 hours in dehydrator for 3 hours @ 120F. Some pics you will see just how good the chrome is and how good it works on flat surfaces with curves. Other pics you'll see where i tried to buff it which it does not like or rubbing with your finger or finger prints. This is only after 3 hours drying @120F not sure how long it's suppose to dry considering it's a ink. Even with the chrome gone it still leaves a rather nice gloss metallic finish lol. It did take a tiny bit of pressure to rub off, but it is delicate after 3 hours of drying so maybe after 8 it may do better? It doesn't dust up like alclad or spazstix which i love and I'm guessing because it's a ink?

Yes the smoother the surface the better the appearance. No glossy black base for this stuff though.

Megahobby has it already in stock for $30 it's where i got it from. $21 can't beat that either. Also that's the video I've been mentioning as well.

I doubt he got new "New improved chrome" stickers and just slapped them on old BMF lol. But until someone tests it out we wont know for sure.

Only small drill bits i have is from tamiya. I don't really use drill bits that much unless it's a kit where i need to drill some holes or something.

Yeah there's no way i would pay $40 for 15ml lol. I still love my alclad and spaz stix and others, but i thought i would get the AK based on the video i seen on youtube. No idea about dry time or anything though there's no directions anywhere lol.

So i purchased some AK super chrome which i guess is "new" in the states. $30 for 60ml compared too $30 for 30ml of molotow. I can see them having this to compete with molotow, because it's a ink as well, but doesn't settle and doesn't need a black base same as molotow. Haven't tested it but from the video i watched it looks really good and can be airbrused or brused on.

Sweet so this is the new good stuff. Let us know if it performs as original.

That is a metallic. You can sand metallics but I'm not gonna start a heated debate about that. Just if you do just fix the problems areas and re-coat.

Yeah you can do 1:1 or 1:2 so that's true, and if you thin the decanted paint you'll get even more than 40mL lol. Stuff is pretty thick decanted compared too model master after degassing.

Hey what kit is that? Are those custom tires? The fabric looks like scale motor sports decals?

Out of the tamiya cans i decant i get roughly little over 40ml so you're only losing like 13 cents compared to buying 4 10ml bottles to 1 can. That might be alot to some folks, but that's nothing to me lol especially considering the type of kits i buy.

If 2K clear is done right it wont look dipped in honey lol. If needed a good wet sand and polish and wax will make it look like a 1:1. I too don't like the look of a model that looks like it was dipped in 2K clear. You don't have to go super heavy with 2K like most do. Tamiya X-1 gloss black if done right with no orange peel (while gorgeous) will look more dipped in honey than a proper 2K clear job especially sanded and polished.

Are you using 2K clear coat?

On the thick side eh? Solvaset says hello lol

All 3 acrylic, enamel, and lacquer have there place in the hobby going so far too even using all 3 on a single build. Depending on your setup and living space will determine what is best to start out with. Vallejo, Ammo by mig, AK, Tamiya, Mr.hobby, Alclad, MCW, Scalefinishes, Dspiae, Gravity colors etc. So many great brands out there to choose from it's all subjective which is the "BEST" because what's best for one person might be horrible for u. Same goes with primers i use Mr.hobby, Tamiya, Alclad, Titan hobby. It's all about trail and error and knowing your huminity in your work space helps too. Practice, Practice, Practice. You wont be a bob ross starting out, but eventually you get better and upgrade to better brushes, and getting better at thinning paints etc. Most of us guys though will only use automotive lacquer paints like scalefinishes and MCW for bodies. You can have a body painted with scalefinishes paint and 2K cleared in like a hour lol. But you can also use an acrylic hybrid like Tamiya X-1 gloss black. Can turn out amazing on a body especially after a good sand and polish unless you happened to get a perfect gloss finish first go round.

Cool guess I'll have to wait for the chrome.

Site says out of stock when you try to order lol

So i have this kit IMEX Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat Boy Model 1/12 and the decals are brand new but they are yellowed. I've heard of methods like putting them in a zip lock bag and putting them in the window for the sun to fix the yellowing and than apply micro scale decal film. I've also heard using a UV lamp can fix the yellowing because the UV rays from the sun is what fixes the issue. I've searched everywhere and can not find any decals for a 1/12 Harley fatboy either.

Yes Mr. Hobby primer is amazing. I have lots of the grey and black and pink. Another amazing primer even though it's in a can is ammo by migs titan hobby primer. The black and grey are the best & it's 400ML cans.

I love this thread so much. Congrats on moving into airbrushing. I started the hobby using a iwata eclipse, and now have a total of 4 brushes including the PS.290 which is a beast. I to have quite a few tamiya rattle cans because i didn't know about scalefinishes or MCW at the time. I also have a ton of tamiya LP bottles, and Mr.hobby ( especially there primers), dspiae paints, alclads etc etc. The tamiya rattle can line up has certain colors you cant get in the LP line up so that's why i will still sometimes get a can and decant it myself. $8 for little over 40ml of paint is cheaper than $2.50 per 10ml bottle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/233180864265?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 that's who i order my tamiya paint jars from. He's the cheapest on ebay and cheapest you'll find them jars anywhere really unless it's changed in other places. Tamiya jars are amazing fantastic air tight seal. Also if i may add a recommendation and that would be in the future if you haven't already is to upgrade to a tank compressor like one spraygunner.com sales called "No - Name" amazing compressor and big enough tank for airbrushing. Also better quality thinners like Mr hobby leveling thinner to thin ALL tamiya paints and mr hobby.

Yeah so how is he making he making a run of product if he's on vacation? Maybe he hasn't gone on vacation yet? Maybe he didn't actually get delayed? ????????????????????????????? lol

Odd question but are you taking the decal off the backing paper and than trying to set it where it's suppose to go or you're actually taking the whole decal still on backing after it's loose and than pulling it off while getting it into position? I know some folks like to take and sit them on a towel or something to get most of the water out and than apply the decal, but if there that thin i probably wouldn't do that. Decal should be able to slide around for a few before sticking that fast lol.

If you want to use super clean i would dilute it pretty good. Simple green could work but probably would need diluted too. I'm wanting to know what would be good to use too. I have some ultrasonic cleaning liquid from micro mark that's suppose to be safe on everything but it can clean oil etc off stuff. I haven't used it yet so I'm not sure. Dawn and water may work good too or even straight distilled water.