Dpate

I love the idea of the 2nd pic. What's the gripping power? Do they grip good? Look like the goody brand hair clips.

I doubt it's the plastic causing you to get orange peel. Base coat only as good as your primer coat. How good is your primer coat? Does it be rough? is it nice and smooth? Laying a top coat without orange peel especially with a can takes practice and skill something you probably had 20 years ago but lost 20 years later. Sometimes orange peel happens - it happens to everyone, but we don't throw in the towel and quit. If we want to get rid of the orange peel and have a show room quality car body 80% of the time you have to put in the extra work and put those elbows to use. Usually my orange peel comes from the clear coat and not the color coat.

Yeah I'm not gonna buy more either. This bottle will last a long time though - so I'll make use of it while i have it. But it does have its place and is a good alternative.

I use the airbrush kind 2oz bottles through a GSI Creo PS-270 .2 needle. I would never dare waist money on a rattle can unless i was gonna decant it and it was the only thing they had available lol.

I purchased the AK out of curiosity to try and test. It was like buying a AMT kit ya don't know if it's gonna be good or bad. But have you ever used spaz stix chrome? That stuff looks fantastic and is the most durable chrome product i own and doesn't need a sealer like others. You would have to really go out of your way to take it off like i did with the AK stuff(only heat dried for 3 hours). Where i get my spaz stix chrome i could get 6oz of it for around $45-$50. If when i ever run out of alclad chrome etc i would continue to buy spaz stix. I may one day get Alsa cause i would love to give it a try though, but it's quite a bit of money just to "try" something out. I'm not doubting you at all about the product though as I'm sure it's a beautiful chrome.

Not everyone is gonna pay $189 for a hobby kit of 4 ozs worth of paint. I'm gonna do more testing with the AK stuff, but it wont replace alclad or spaz or greenstuffworld for me.

I actually bought a can of that from hobby lobby when they had the clearance sale going on because of the discontinue. If you really want the factory color you got scalefinishes, and gravity colors, and MRP, and i think MCW has it.

That i couldn't answer 100%, but as with almost all chromes a clear coat usually dulls it a tad bit. By it being similar to molotow i could see it being dulled a little using a clear coat.

Yeah the dusting doesn't bother me. It's actually pretty awesome wiping the dust off and seeing the chrome pop lol. Barbatos rex on youtube put up a review of the AK chrome. EDIT: After watching his video i actually got better results with the stuff than he did lol

Yes all are AK and the spoon and hood is the ones i rubbed out. You can actually buff Alclad and spazstix pretty good without it coming off. This stuff doesn't dust up like those and really doesn't need a buffing - i was just trying it out too see if it could be buffed. I'm probably gonna do another test run and let it dry for least 8 hours or more and see if that helps it from rubbing off like it did. Even using your finger can take it off pretty easy. If i don't use this for actual parts i will def use it for emblems etc. This product does have a place in the hobby though not cause it's another chrome, but for folks who don't wanna deal with 2 separate products and save money over using molotow. I need little more practice with the AK stuff, because I'm so use to misting alclad or spaz over a black base and with this stuff you just airbrush it like regular paint. Also it doesn't sag and it self levels itself, but i think if i let it dry for a lot longer it may not come off as easy when rubbed.

Alright so i took parts from a random dump bin kit to test on and the results are great and not so great. I don't show all the parts, but they were not cleaned just wiped, and where not buffed to a gloss, and no primer or anything was used. Sprayed some at 15PSI and 20PSI really didn't make a difference. Also only dried for about 3 hours in dehydrator for 3 hours @ 120F. Some pics you will see just how good the chrome is and how good it works on flat surfaces with curves. Other pics you'll see where i tried to buff it which it does not like or rubbing with your finger or finger prints. This is only after 3 hours drying @120F not sure how long it's suppose to dry considering it's a ink. Even with the chrome gone it still leaves a rather nice gloss metallic finish lol. It did take a tiny bit of pressure to rub off, but it is delicate after 3 hours of drying so maybe after 8 it may do better? It doesn't dust up like alclad or spazstix which i love and I'm guessing because it's a ink?

Yes the smoother the surface the better the appearance. No glossy black base for this stuff though.

Megahobby has it already in stock for $30 it's where i got it from. $21 can't beat that either. Also that's the video I've been mentioning as well.

I doubt he got new "New improved chrome" stickers and just slapped them on old BMF lol. But until someone tests it out we wont know for sure.

Only small drill bits i have is from tamiya. I don't really use drill bits that much unless it's a kit where i need to drill some holes or something.

Yeah there's no way i would pay $40 for 15ml lol. I still love my alclad and spaz stix and others, but i thought i would get the AK based on the video i seen on youtube. No idea about dry time or anything though there's no directions anywhere lol.

So i purchased some AK super chrome which i guess is "new" in the states. $30 for 60ml compared too $30 for 30ml of molotow. I can see them having this to compete with molotow, because it's a ink as well, but doesn't settle and doesn't need a black base same as molotow. Haven't tested it but from the video i watched it looks really good and can be airbrused or brused on.

Sweet so this is the new good stuff. Let us know if it performs as original.

That is a metallic. You can sand metallics but I'm not gonna start a heated debate about that. Just if you do just fix the problems areas and re-coat.

Yeah you can do 1:1 or 1:2 so that's true, and if you thin the decanted paint you'll get even more than 40mL lol. Stuff is pretty thick decanted compared too model master after degassing.

Hey what kit is that? Are those custom tires? The fabric looks like scale motor sports decals?

Out of the tamiya cans i decant i get roughly little over 40ml so you're only losing like 13 cents compared to buying 4 10ml bottles to 1 can. That might be alot to some folks, but that's nothing to me lol especially considering the type of kits i buy.

If 2K clear is done right it wont look dipped in honey lol. If needed a good wet sand and polish and wax will make it look like a 1:1. I too don't like the look of a model that looks like it was dipped in 2K clear. You don't have to go super heavy with 2K like most do. Tamiya X-1 gloss black if done right with no orange peel (while gorgeous) will look more dipped in honey than a proper 2K clear job especially sanded and polished.

Are you using 2K clear coat?

On the thick side eh? Solvaset says hello lol