Dpate

Yeah that’s what I was asking was just the whole body carbon fiber. Cause every pic I see especially of Tamiya is gray. But the template decal set covers the entire body shell of the car. Every part you just named lol.

So I bought the Tamiya GT4 kit, and both scale motor sports photoetch set, and pewter carbon fiber decal template set. My question is - is there even a real version of the car fully done in carbon fiber? Can’t find pics of one on the web at all. Like I know there are certain parts of the car that is fiber, but never seen a full bodied carbon fiber GT4. Also if i were to carbon fiber the whole body would I be able to use Tamiyas decals on top of it? Decal on top of decal?

Someone said the Matt aluminum version works great just have to buff it up with a Q tip. I actually found a pack of the “New improved” chrome at hobby town. They only had one and I haven’t tried it yet. Lady said it’s been there for a long time, but I still bought it lol. I was like this stuff is big money right here.

Can't really help you on this one, but I'd like to know as well just in case i decide to keep some chrome parts in the near future. I always dechrome the parts though because there gate attachment on the parts are horrible except for tamiya and aoshima and hasagawa theres be pretty good. Touch up chrome doesn't blend in that good either. It really just depends on how anal you are about it tbh.

Thank you!

You don't have to wait a few weeks or months to do anything. Without a dehydrator you could wait like 2 days or so proper room temp and you should be good. If i had to wait weeks etc to do anything I'd be using a different product lol. Like gravity colors 2K or Finish 1 2K. Also instead of scratch X and novus 2 just get meguiars ultimate compound and there polish. Tamiya makes good products too. Just depends on what results you're after? Like sandboarders picture of that blue body. It has a little bit of orange peel, but still looks great. It's just like a 1:1 with the orange peel, and I've seen 1:1 with worse orange peel than that. If clear coat is sprayed right you wont have orange peel at all. Also what blue is that @Sandboarder

A lot of folks use oil paints like Winsor & Newton raw umber, Burnt Sienna, etc along with a fan style paint brush. Only thing is - is the oil can take a long time too dry. You could even do clear orange on top too.

It's not the dehydrator that's the issue. I remember using some off the wall 2K clear called "No Name" and few hours in the dehydrator and than rest with no heat cause i had too leave. Next day i went too the hobby room the 2K was hard as a rock. 2K clear mixed properly with reducer if needed and hardner it will dry like it's suppose too. Waiting that long before polishing is crazy lol you really need to use better products i think, but if you enjoy waiting that long than enjoy.

Crazy how the new improved BMF looks so much better than the regular chrome.

I seen these too and was wondering if anyone has tried them lol. I just spent about $800 at plazajapan so I can 't afford to test them right now.

It's really a $15 brush at best. You could get them for $10 from plazajapan which is a great site, but shipping is killer. $20 for a brush is no different than $20 for a quality paint brush.

Was your primer coat smooth? That can cause color coat to be rough too if the primer coat isn't smooth. Top back side looking little pinkish too. You're gonna have to do some wet sanding and than do another coat.

Gotcha that makes sense. Like the trumperter firetruck i have there is alot of diamond plated parts. Well i never had any polished aluminum just aluminum metal colors like AK and Valejo so what you explained makes sense. Spaz stix chrome is little brighter than alclad which is why i tend to use it more, but i do love the alclad chrome. So I'm def going to get some polished aluminum when i can. It's not just big rigs either it's really everything that should be polished aluminum instead of chrome is what I'm worried about.

So my question is are these very similar? I own plenty of Alclad chrome along with other brands of chrome, but for parts that are diamond plated like on big rigs are they chromed or aluminum? Would chrome give the same affect or there is a difference? I mean on 1:1 the diamond plate looks just like chrome bumpers etc.

When i purchased BSI CA accelerator refill bottle the first time that's what i did was get some smaller bottles with needles to use it. Tiny drop will do ya, and don't know why folks spray this stuff all over a part that's clued lol. I'm actually thinking about getting some bottles with brushes inside like tamiya glue has and use that too just brush it on since it's so thin, and will go where ever it needs to go.

The SMS Ceramic scraper is what you want. Safer than a x-acto you can't cut yourself or gouge the plastic. It's pricey but worth every penny. Haven't touched a X-acto blade since owning the SMS ceramic scraper.

Tamiya static brush is what you want. It's pricey, but it's worth it. It'll last forever if you take care of it.

I've seen tons of that glue at hobby lobby and hobby town in a little brown box. Honestly man he probably lied to you so you would get better glue lol. Cement glue you have Tamiya along with others but Tamiya extra thin & extra thin quick setting is the best. CA you got zap, BSI, tons of other great ones, along with any insta set you're golden.

Yes i just wanted this version. Not going to build it at all just display it the way it is. All n all with shipping and tax it was $55. That's the price of a game these days so I'm good. Pepsi pays me good lol.

Well i got some good results today. After letting some parts sit in 100% lye for like a week it took off 90% of the varnish which isn't too bad. I'm sure if i would of replaced the water and new lye it would of fully took off the varnish. I than took some parts today that was recently dechromed but still had the varnish on the part and put them into 91% ISP and check them out after about 20 mins. Too my surprise it took the varnish right off even making the part extra clean lol. Crazy how ISP works better than 100% lye far as the varnish goes. So now this is gonna be my process as follows. 1.Distilled water +100% lye in ultrasonic cleaner @ 40c temp (takes about 5-10 mins)) depending on kit. 2. Wash parts with dawn dish soap 3. If any varnish is still left put parts into 91% ISP let sit for as long as it needs. If varnish is gone than i move to step 4 4. Clean up parts imperfections etc 5.Wash parts again with dawn dish soap Squeaky clean parts ready for gloss black base and chrome.

Depends on the paint you use. All the paint i use i need to use a primer or else it can attack the plastic. If you use primer on parts you should be sanding it smooth or else it will look like BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH. The primers i use are not thick primers pretty thin. Rusto in a can i see how that can be thick and hide alot of detail.

I got it. Thanks for the help along with everyone else.

Well i can i just wanted to make sure i wasn't getting fully ripped off.

Well i left an offer so we see how it goes. Well he accepted my off of $40. Y'all think that too high still?

Its not sealed and i wanna keep it myself not build it or sell it lol. Thanks for the help everyone.