Casey

Yes, it was never released. Steve Goldman explained it here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4718&p=748786

More sparkle here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9452&hl=%2Binca+%2Bgold

There's no clear on it. Just three coats of Inca Gold over two coats of Duplicolor GM Arctic(?) White.

Post #42 has the skinny: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64756&p=789549 This one is Hemi only, with no optional trans/rear. The street machine option provides lowered suspension all around, custom grille, wheels, tires, and the Raisin Bran hood. Optional for both versions are the separately molded floor console, rocker panel moldings, and chrome plated or elastomeric bumpers (ok, painted in scale).

Block sanding and leveling the right side was pretty easy using three consecutively finer grit sanding sticks. Looks like I need a tiny bit of filler at the top and bottom of the upper door edge where there are still two low spots, but they made get filled after a coat of high build primer: The left side will be a bit more challenging, and the door handle, lock cylinder, and Tradesman nameplate will all disappear from the door, but the entire area needs to be blocked and evened out before I can start to correct the hood's shape.

I would suggest you buy The Moelhaus' '81 Suburban trans kit. Though it's not cheap, the quality is excellent: http://modelhaus.com/index.php?c=4064&p=70026 You might get lucky and come across one on eBay for a bit less, but they still fetch good money there.

If you're going gold you have to try the Testors Inca Gold One Coat Lacquer. This was a 1/10 scale body, so the flakes will look larger on a 1/25 scale body, but over a white base, in the sun...

The Revell Gran Prix chassis should work withe the Regal as they are both GM W-body platform. The Reatta is more difficult as there are no kits I'm aware of based scale based on the GM E-body platform, and none of the Allante which was the Reatta's sibling. An MPC Fiero might work if you're going custom.

Duplicolor has/has some metalflake/metallic paints, but most likely the flake texture will be too coarse for a 1/25 scale model, a problem you are likely to encounter with most paints. I really like the Testor's One Coat Lacquers, and I'm pretty sure they have a metallic blue in the line. You can intensify the final color a bit by using an appropriate base color before you apply the metallic color, too. Maybe try this?:

I do the same thing. The Elmer's white glue will stick to the parts while you paint around it (well, once the white glue has dried), but it's easy to remove once the final painting is done. There are some liquid masking agents which serve the same purpose, too, and I always try to assemble as much as reasonably possible to minimize the number of parts to be glued after they are painted.

Testors Chrome oil-based enamel and some of their silvery/metallic colors can take a bit longer to dry, but they shouldn't take that long. Did you stir the paint for a long enough period of time before using it? Many enamel paints in bottles require lots of stirring to ensure they are thoroughly mixed. How old is the bottle of paint?

I was debating how to best solve the thickness/depth difference between the upper door area and the upper quarter panel, which you can (kind of) see here.: I decided to add a piece of .010" thick styrene to the door to even things out, like so the piece was cut and shaped to match the upper door area's shape, the bottom edge was half-rounded (is that word?) to match the beltline contour, and it was welded in place with Plastruct plastic welder: I will need to add some thickness at the door handle level, fine tune the door gaps and re-open the window and vent window openings, but the thickness issue is now eliminated...at least on the left side. The porthole window plugs got received a bit more sanding and skim coat of putty, so here's how the body looks now: More frame work coming up next.

FWIW, I think the original MPC kits will always be desirable, regardless of any new or reissued kits. I think there's a market for a aftermarket conversion which combines or allows the builder to more easily combine the new with the old, without the need to buy both kits, especially when one is in the $100+ range. A kit such as this should spur on demand for aftermarket products to be used with it, even if Revell follows it up within a year with a Sox & Martin Pro Stock version.

Hopefully someone will post a comparison pic or two with both the MPC '70-'74 and JO-HAN '71 bodies when the Revell kit arrives at the end of the year. Even then, I honestly doubt we will have a consensus, and I don't think there will be two groups on either side, but rather two extremes and lots of grey area in between. I'm willing to bet someone will mock up their MPC and/or JO-HAN 'cuda bodies with the Revell front valance, grille, etc. to show how well the two kits' parts will or will not work together, but there will always be some people who prefer the MPC and JO-HAN bodies, no matter what, so I think there will be a small market for them. If the resin MPC or JO-HAN body is modified to accept the Revell kit's grille, valance, etc., I think there will be some appeal for that, too. If Round2 releases the '74 Barracuda kit/promo, that complicates things even further.

Yes

http://www.missinglinkrc.com/70_Dodge_Charger.htm

Jeff Ballard from Motor City Resin Casters has mentioned this in other topics, but it bear repeating here. The reasons a U.S. shipper uses the more expensive USPS Priority Mail International (PMI) instead of USPS First Class International (FCI) shipping are 1) the package and it's contents can be insured; 2) A shorter delivery time Now that USPS includes Tracking on First Class International packages, finding out if the package arrived at its destination and having proof it did is not an issue like it once was, but no insurance is available when shipping via USPS FCI, so if the item is lost or damaged in transit, the shipper is out the entire cost of the item, the shipping cost, and s/he has to replace the item AND ship it a second time. With that in mind, it becomes clear why USPS PMI is the safer option with much less risk for the shipper, even though it is considerably more expensive for the buyer. If the shipper charges for USPS PMI and ships the at the much cheaper USPS FCI rate, that's en entirely different scenario, and the one Alan is currently trying to get resolved.

We're back on topic.

$30 is the USPS Priority International Mail rate, $8.xx is the USPS First Class International rate to/from those locations, so that's where the discrepancy lies. I would call SMH and ask for a refund. It's possible who you spoke with and who mailed the package were different people and the latter didn't use Priority when s/he was supposed to. Hopefully a call or an e-mail gets you a partial refund, Alan.

It was retro before retro was hip? I do see the similarities in the grilles, and as you or someone else mentioned earlier, the '71-'73 got so big, the only direction the II could go was smaller. I still like the way the 5 mph bumpers were integrated, and the early fastback shape is still pleasing to my eyes before all the spoilers, spats, and flares, not to mention the Cobra's snake graphics came along. Maybe it's just the overall proportions I find appealing like I did with the '65-'66 fastbacks. It does look a lot like a stretched Pinto from the side, though.

I agree on both counts, and we seem to be straying off topic again. I think we'll follow Shardik's sage advice here.

I think they'll be the same Cragar S/S wheels as in the previous non-Pro Street kits, but it looks like the stock, three-"spoke" wheel covers are now included, too: http://www.round2models.com/files/instructions/amt772.pdf

Here are the other two pics Steve Goldman took and posted (which were moved to the Revell 2013 kits topic) of the Slingster:

I moved some of the posts from the Revell 2014 announcements since technically Revell didn't announce anything for 2014 at the 2013 Toledo NNL (which I think most of us expected them to), but rather showed only 2013 kits. Hopefully this keeps all the discussion regarding Revell's 2013 kits in one place, and allows the 2014 announcements/kits their own, new topic for discussion.

Based on the pre-production parts shown by Revell, yes, they seem to use grey plastic for them all, as the '70 Hemi Cuda, '49 Merc Woodie, '57 Bel Air 'vert, etc. are all molded in that color, too. I think the kit parts will be molded in white plastic, especially since this is a Skill Level 3 kit.