Casey

The unicorn ran off with the key again?

You'll have to scratchbuild all those parts. What do the wheels look like?

Yes:

They look the same to me, Roger:

I believe the truck bed is leftover from the last (modified) reissue as the "Tweedy Pie 2":

Take a look at the Revell "California Wheels" series of kits. Some have slightly wider and larger diameter rear wheels and tires, but the offset difference between the front and rear wheels isn't huge, so I guess it depends if you want a "deep dish" look or just a slight difference. These are the Billet Specialties "Fuelie" wheels found in the Revell Goodguys '55 Bel Air Hardtop kit. You can see the slight difference in depth between the front and rear wheels:

Very nice work, Dave. Just enough detail to please the eyes, but not too much that it's cluttered. I love that you didn't use AN-type fittings for the lines/hoses, too. Now, how do we get ourselves a set of those pie-crust slicks??

The C-C version of the Lindberg Dodge A-100 pickup can supply the "Coca-Cola" lettering and the different "Enjoy" wordmark in white, and there are also red squares with the "Enjoy C-C" and the wave thingy on the same sheet. The sheet I have has a slight rub/black mark on one of the white "Coca"s, but if you want it, it's yours. Just PM me your address, please.

They look nice, Chuck, especially the grille and headlights. I remember what a pain those rear wheel arch flares are to decal around/over from building the Revell Snake/Army car in the '80s. I assume a healthy dose of decal setting and/or softening solution helps in that area?

I think Shucky/Mike is the only one making a Pro Charger at this point: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37624

Only .01% of people who look it over will even notice the flaws, and the other 99.99% don't notice or don't care. No kit will ever be perfect, but Moebius is at least setting their standards high and aiming for perfection, and that is to be commended. Now come on Moebius, get going on that '70 'Cuda kit, please. We've all had enough of these '50s "grandpa" cars.

And the Celica above is actually what we got stateside as a Supra L-type. No '82-'85 Celica injection molded plastic kit has been produced in bi-scale that I know of.

If the engine alone is going to measure thirty-eight feet long, how long will the entire vehicle be? '38 = 1938 38' = 38 feet Multiple engine vehicles are a pain to tune, especially if they a carb'ed, but they do catch your eye.

I had read the same thing, too- a new 'Cuda based on an Alfa platform, rather than the current Challenger/Charger platform. I had also read it will have the Pentastar V6 engine with forced induction, not a V8, and will replace the Challenger. With V6 Camaros putting out 304 horsepower as a base model and CAFE standards ever increasing, I don't see a need to keep the six-year old Challenger when a smaller, lighter, more efficient car can provide the same (or very similar) performance...and probably for a lower price point, too.

They're on eBay pretty often, and Monogram did reissue it once, so it's not impossible to find. Odds are pretty good someone here may even have one, so try a Wanted ad.

http://futurattraction.com/index.html

I think that fad has passed as far as Revell is concerned. I will guess they'll do something similar to the '50 Ford pickup, with a custom version to follow in a few years. It looks like Revell is already including a dual carb intake manifold in the Special Edition release.

Whomever designed the nose on the Honda 1300 Coupe 9 must've really liked the '61 Pontiac Tempest.

The Lil Red wheels were 15x7 and 15x8 and were offered by Dodge only, though there were similar 15x7 wheels used on both Dodge and Plymouth D series pickups/SUVs and B-series vans. They will pass for a generic 5-slot wheel if used on a non-Mopar.

Humidity is not the same as temperature. It's a measure of the amount of water vapor in the air- basically how "wet" the air is. Pat is right on the money- fogging with oil-based enamel paints is often caused by high humidity. You might want to try a clear lacquer instead.

Then you should buy a polishing kit.

If you want an angled chop, you need to change the angle of the A- and B- (and C- if it's a 5-window) pillars, or they will look like they have a kink where you made the cuts. Essentially you are taking a wedge shape out of the pillars, but since the roof and beltline are no longer parallel, simply removing material from each pillar will not work, nor will it look very good if you leave the pillar angles the same as before the chop. I'd suggest you use a jewelers saw and make a relief cut at the bottom of the A-pillars (where they meet the doors/cowl), then decide how far back the A-pillars should be laid back. The C-pillars are going to be a pain and will require lots of shaping to make them look good, but it can be done.

You need to start with the coarsest grit polishing cloth which removes the orange peel first. You need to get the paint surface even first, then use progressively finer grit polishing cloths to make finer and finer scratches, until the naked eye can no longer see the scratches. Even with 12,000 grit, there are still scratches.

You need to make at least one master, which you can then copy using resin and silicone rubber molds. If you can translate your computer image/design into a master (via 3D printing or something else) you can make as many as you want. If not, you have to scratchbuild the wheel or modify an existing wheel which is close to the design and scale you want.

Are you wanting injection molded kits to include P/E wipers or molded plastic wipers? No molded wiper is ever going to be as detailed as a P/E wiper, and the wipers on Steve's Riv are pretty much "state of the art" at this time (and they do look great).