Casey

I'm working on a 1/10 scale ex-R/C Camaro being built as a slammer, with the body and rolling stock being the only visible parts on the finished model. The windshield is a separate piece, but is molded in solid (completely opaque) plastic, but the side and rear window areas are molded as one with body shell. I've scribed around the perimeters of the side windows, adding some shadow lines, but I'm open to suggestions for making the "fixed" windows look more realistic. Highly polished gloss black paint is probably my #1 option, but option #2 is to test out some black decal film and see how that looks. I don't have much faith that will look all that great, though. I plan to paint the gaps/edges surrounding the windows, so there will be a some contrast with the window finish. The final body color is yet to be decided, but will be on the lighter side- gold, white, or light grey.

Maybe Pro Tech does one in turned aluminum?

Looks like two distinct "noses" will be need for '73 and '74, as the '73's header panel drops down while the '74's grille appears to be taller. Are the bumper-to-header panel filler pieces the same for '73 and '74?

Does anyone have close up pics of the front and rear rearend assemblies on these kits?

Fall of 2012? Regardless of when, it's good to see Galaxie Ltd. putting out something new, or at least a modified reissue...though a '41 Chevy coupe would be a nice "next" version. http://www.modelcars...7316&hl=galaxie

I was just thinking the same thing...it really does look like a lot like chrome. Maybe I missed it, but are you planning to use different headers than what was shown earlier?

Ah, that makes sense. Are you no longer planning to make copies of the engine? Yes, it is, but just to clarify, my comment was made in regards to Romell planning to cast copies of the engine parts, as those hollow passages would be very difficult to pull off with traditional rubber molds. If he's no longer doing that, nevermind...

There are no rocker arms nor shafts on the DOHC Hemi engine: I have one of these engines saved for someday, as it just plain looks impressive.

You probably will not want to have cured, expanding foam meeting liquid mold rubber. The rubber will seep into the foam's pores and at the very least, your molds will be heavily damaged when you attempt to remove the parts. Think about the foam and rubber meeting (and bonding) in every depression, cylinder bore, water jacket, etc. Do you plan to make the second engine out of brass, too? I don't envy all the sanding and polishing you'll need to do to make the parts smooth enough to cast, especially in between and around the runners on the tunnel ram. You might also consider making the tunnel ram as two pieces instead of one so it's easier to cast. Is there a specific reason you used tubing instead of rod stock to make the crank journals?

James, the attached images at the LIY forum can't be viewed unless you're a registered member. Any chance you could repost the images here for us to view?

I got into the Tom Daniel-designed Snap Draggins when Revell reissued some of them a decade ago, and they were very enjoyable to build. Since they are artistic interpretations of real vehicles, they needn't be "accurate", so you have the freedom to do whatever you want- at that's exactly the point. I freely admit the Zingers! series are incredibly goofy and borderline ridiculous, but until Round2 reissued them a few years ago, I never even considered using one of the bodies to build a stock replica, but that's exactly what happened. Sometimes it helps to use your imagination and think "What else could I do with this kit?" instead of "I would never buy that kit!". As Rob said above, I think there is also a huge nostalgia factor coming into play on these (and quite honestly many other) kits, and that goes right to the core of why we love to build models.

A Monkeemobile Pontiac GTO ( ) by Imai?

It's not the most accurate kit, but it's a starting point for a lot of work. I picked one up a few years ago to use the body for a Funny Car project, and the body was the best part...but still not all that great.

Maybe not quite as obscure across the pond, but over here, Zodiac kits are definitely obscure, and Airfix kits in general (automotive subjects in particular) seem to be few and far between. Let me guess, Christian has one of these.

Rustoleum gloss enamel paints are notorious for their slow drying times...the heavier the coating, the longer it takes.

The reissued AMT '62 T-bird kit has scallops on the decal sheet, but they are lavender in color. Check out this post for scallops done right: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=43968&st=0

The two Goodyear Tracker AT tires and eight-spoke, eight-lug wheels are from the 1/24 Monongram Off Road Van. I think Steve meant to type "1/32" on the Aurora (later reissued by Monogram) '65 GTO The yellow Cougar sure looks like the 1/43 AMT Custom Cougar The green Vette looks smaller than 1/32 (comparing it to the GTO), and larger than the Cougar, so let's say 1/35-1/40-ish?? Gotta be Lindberg, Palmer, or possibly even a Korris car?

It's separate, see here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13935&hl=hertz&fromsearch=1

All that's missing are the 12 coats of Imron clear.

FWIW, I bought an Aoshima Subaru Legacy GT wagon a decade ago, and it included a LHD dashboard which was very nicely done.

Yes, they can still be found as NOS (new old stock) on eBay, but American SATCO is no longer producing new tires.

Until the O.P. returns and replies, we just don't know. I suspect the other posters are correct, since very few people would take the time to detail the backside of a grille.

I'll take mine with disco rainbow stripes, please:

Did American SATCO actually produce the tires themselves or were they simply re-packaged Aoshima tires (or whomever supplied the tires to Aoshima)? Or was it a mix of SATCO's own unique tires and some repackaged Aoshima tires?

So let me get this straight....the MPC General Lee is actually a 1969 Charger 500 with the wrong grill.... It was both a '69 Charger and Charger 500 at various times, and various parts were and weren't changed, so it's really a mish-mash of both. I thought Round2 finally corrected the body within the last three years or so, and the tunnelback window has again returned to the body shell? So if I wanted to build a factory STOCK 1969 Charger, what would I need? A Revell '69 Dodge Charger R/T kit. Also, what do you guys mean by "filling in the rear window" for the Charger Daytona? Did they use just a smaller rear window, or was it eliminating the tunnelback on the '68? The Charger 500 and Daytona both featured a flush ("filled in", if you like) rear window which eliminated the tunnelback window cove.