Casey

Many Johan kits had accurate bodies and they were the only option for many subjects, so there are desirable to some just for that reason alone. Plus, add in the fact they are no longer in business, the building was razed, and the semi-mysterious history of the tooling since the '80s X-El/Seville legal issues, and you have yourself a good story.

http://theboxartden.com/Artists/Bob%20Paeth%20-%20Revell%2055%20Chevy/paeth.htm IIRC, Mark Jones aka Scale-Master is related to one of the crew members mentioned on the door. AMT and Revell had some very appealing box art in the late '60s, and this is another of my faves, the AMT SandKat:

Everybody should bookmark this 'site, as there are HUNDREDS of instructions sheet scans: http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/instruction_sheetsh/instruction_sheets/

I picked up another Little Red Zinger kit and used part of the chassis/floor on the A-100 van since the LRZ chassis has close-to-stock wheel houses up front. You can see the crosswise cut (just rearward of the round hole) where the new floor section was attached, and the framerail-to rocker panel braces nicely hid the splice joints, at least partially. I added another floor filler piece rearward of the of the new floor section, then tied it all together by re-gluing the framerails to the floor. I added a rear bumper brace, but I'm not sure if it'll remain, as I thin kit looks a bit too large. I also started fitting the chassis inside the body shell, but it's going to need a bit more work around the perimeter: The floor's topside will be covered with a piece of (what I think is) grooved siding from Evergreen in an attempt to replicate a ribbed sheet metal cargo floor, while also serving to hide the joints and strengthen the entire floor. Here's the topside before the ribbed piece is added:

As Mike suggested above, do a "Completed Items" search on eBay in the automotive models category, and you should get an idea of what they sell for. I would guess $300+ since that looks like a near mint original issue kit- the most desirable condition.

If it's the most recent re-issue, slightly less than $100, assuming it's complete and nothing has been started. If it's an original issue kit, it's worth much more, condition depending.

Can you post the full specs of ideal tire size you want? O.D., tread width, center bore, bore width from side-to-side, etc.? You want a treaded tire, correct?

See post #12 in this topic.

Picked up this little guy yesterday. Should make a nice 2-day build:

You can look at that AMC dealership on Google Maps, and see just how many vehicles are still on the property...the pale blue Gremlin is still parked right out front.

I had heard from someone the LX notch project was put on the backburner, too, but I got the feeling (as in, my own personal opinion based on the little bit I heard) the project was more of a pet project to/for Ed Sexton, so maybe it didn't fit in with Revell's plans for the time being. I dunno, but I wouldn't expect to see a Mustang LX notch from Revell in 2013. Maybe someday it will make it's way out into the world like the resin Olds Cutlass body...

Agreed...on the first two points. I think that was the last "Pro Modeler" automotive subject, too, but maybe it was never a good seller for R-M?

It's pretty much the GN (Grand National) kit, but with the GNX-specific fender flares (I don't recall if they are separate pieces, but I think not), "mesh" BBS style wheels, and Goodyear Eagle VR50 type tires (again, IIRC, it's been a few years since I built one).

That's really up to the buyer when s/he decides to purchase something. Some people don't mind waiting for month to receive products, and some get impatient after two days. There is no blanket statement which can cover every business, and it's not fair to lump all businesses together, even if they all make similar products. For many resin casters, this is a full-time business and for some it's a part-time gig. Each buyer needs to ask before they order if they have questions regarding payment terms, delivery time, quality, etc. and then there will be no surprises down the line.

There is plenty of commentary regarding Reliable Resin and people's experiences with them, both good and bad, in the Resin section. A forum search will turn up at least three locked threads about Reliable Resin in the Resin section, so from that each person needs to draw their own conclusions. I wish people would use the forum as the valuable resource it is- if you are unsure of anything, ask! There are plenty of MCM members willing to share their experiences with you, so please, ask first. On page one of the Resin section there's a topic regarding Jimmy Flintstone and his products, with honest comments, opinions and suggestions from forum members about JF's products.

Put me down as a "maybe". I still need to modify the kit-based engine I have, but I have the vehicle it's going into all lined up.

I had the "Lightning Rods" version of the Monza, and to say this kit is poor is a huge understatement, but as Rob said, the body is the best part. Are you planning to open up the hood louvers?

The Revell 1/25 '69 Nova SS and 1/25 '69 Camaro Z/28 both have nice small blocks, with separate parts for the water pump, etc. The Nova has a really nice set of headers, too, if you're going that route...but both have manual transmissions attached. The Revell '57 Chevy Bel Air Sedan 2'n1 has a decent small block with an attached auto trans, but I suspect it's a 2-speed Powerglide. What era vehicle is this engine going in? I'm trying to remember if the AMT '33 Ford Sedan included an auto trans or not...

Chris, which scale are you building?

^^^This guy gets it.

I don't think so, as 1/35 is mostly a military scale, but there were a few 1/32 Funny Cars from Monogram which included some decent hard plastic two-piece Goodyear slicks.

eBay eliminated that loophole a year or so ago. They used to only charge a final value fee based on the actual item's final value, and not the item and shipping. Now, they charge the final fee based on the total of the item and shipping, so anyone still selling items for $.01 with $34.99 shipping is paying the same fees as someone who sells an item for $30.99 and charges $4.01 for shipping. You're right, though. eBay is a great resource for many different things, not just bidding and buying. I can't even begin to count the number of things I've found there which I never knew existed.

Exactly. It's when people decided they "must" have it, and increase their bid that things get complicated. Bid your max and live with the results. Exercising restraint and sticking to your max bid amount is the key. Doing some research via a Completed Items search for the particular item(s) you are thinking of bidding on gives you a pretty good idea of what the item sells for, based on condition. I am a huge fan of The Buy It Now and Best Offer features, as if I want something, I am usually willing to pay for it now and "get" it, rather than wait until the auction ends.

Ian, these are JoHan slicks, with Goodyear lettering on one side and M&H on the other, but being 1/25 scale I think they would work for your Mini: O.D. = 28.42mm Tread width = 9.923mm Overall sidewall-to-sidewall max width = 12.005mm Wheel bore I.D. = 15.80mm These were the only tires I found which have a smaller O.D. than the Goodyear Frontrunner tires you're currently using: ^^ These tires are from the 1/32 Revell Shelby GT500 Snap Tite kit.

Here are some (not the best quality) pics I took of the Jimmy Flintstone Screechasaurus body: