Casey

I don't mean to scold, but stating in your title that there's a "problem" when there really isn't is doing a disservice to both fellow MCM members and The Modelhaus. A little more patience is all that is required, or better yet, call them and ask how much longer until your order arrives. Go directly to the source and get an answer. I don't believe I have EVER read any comment on this forum stating The Modelhaus does not return e-mails, phone calls, etc. They are about as close to a rock-solid, 100% guarantee anyone will find in the resin aftermarket, and as stated, they can take up to six weeks to fill your order. I know we all tend to fall into the "instant satisfaction" trap, but this is definitely a case where patience is required. That patience will be rewarded when you receive top quality products.

Do you plan to use them with or without dog dish/poverty hubcaps? Or are you wanting Rallye type steel wheels?

More a mini-bike than a dirtbike, but Scale Equipment Limited offers the Taco mini-bike from the Monogram Vandal kit: http://www.seltd.net/ez-catalog/X344897/16/SP-006

It might be easier to find the most recent issue, the "Alley Rat":

Ma's Resin offers these, in case you don't want to make your own... If you do, start with a plain slick and add the grooves by removing material. IIRC, Al from Ma's resin started with an aluminum master, made a jig which rotated and stopped every few degrees, then routed out the grooves. The Hoosier tire pictured would be much easier to make, as you could put the tire on a lathe or drill and make the grooves. Some have suggested that kit-sourced NASCAR slicks are very close to the drag radial sizes, too.

I honestly doubt it, because the complete kit can be had for $15-$20.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57368&st=0&p=678466&hl=+chevy%20+truck%20+rally&#entry678466

If by registration you mean how well the mold halves or sliding mold sections align with each other, then that can definitely affect the amount of flash which is produced, not to mention the size of the molding seams. Excessive flash is usually taken to be a sign of the molds getting worn out and not mating as well as they used to, and later JO-HAN kits are often cited for this infraction, fair or not. I don't see flash as a huge issue, and have never come across flash so bad that it discouraged me from building the kit.

There's some good ElCo/camper info on this page, including some pics of the camper units: http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?p=230206

I see them now:

I think Missing Link makes the '76-'81 Formula hood.

I always thought that was odd, too, and I don't ever recall seeing a 1:1 ElCo or Ranchero with a slide-in camper.

Here are some pics of the two diecast '41 Chevy models: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59510&st=0&p=722890&hl=+41%20+chevy&#entry722890

Ironic this was posted by a "Jeff"?

Where're you gonna find a driver figure donning a pith helmet?

Are the wheels on the Marlin from the AMT '66 Galaxie re-issue (I forget the specific series name)? I think Chuck was looking for those not too long ago, and I would love to see a close up pic of one, as they look like large diameter Radir wheels? I say finish the R/W/B AMX first. I think some of these Jav concepts would make excellent build material, too: http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2011/04/25/jav-olution-the-seventies-javelin-that-never-was/

Austin, try a forum search using "Orlando Hobby Shops" and you'll find three previous topics with info on hobby shops in that area: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=36557&hl=%2Borlando+%2Bhobby+%2Bshops http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20589&hl=%2Borlando+%2Bhobby+%2Bshops http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5763&hl=%2Borlando+%2Bhobby+%2Bshops

The angled, front section of the floor was reattached, the floor holes and gaps filled with superglue, kicker, and/or baking powder, then the entire floor was sanded flat and smooth. The chassis/floor was placed inside the body for a test fit, and while there are still some minor gap issues to be resolved, but it's getting very close to where it needs to be: In preparation for the sidewall and roof ribs I plan to add, I block sanded the inside wall and roof surfaces, so the patch panels and ejector pin marks are now flush with the surrounding plastic:

This is a good example of why it's always a good idea to use the search function before posting. Yes, the search function is not perfect, but I found the same topic when it was posted back in 2011 simply by searching for "George Toteff": http://www.modelcars...+george +toteff

Are these the same as the Ulrich Mini-men, just repackaged for auto world?

Are the sandbags solid? One thing that catches the eye is the sandbags all look the same. A few random dents/impressions/folds to a few of them would add more realism.

Never knew MPC made an H-body Buick Skyhawk:

Don't use the oil-based enamel on tires- it will never dry, and will always be tacky. Always use a water-based acrylic on model kit vinyl tires. I would suggest you wipe the painted RWLs off carefully with some mineral spirits. I have always had good luck painting those letters with a toothpick and some patience.

Did you use an acrylic, water based paint?

I would get rid of that chain, as it looks very out of scale...and roll those sandbags around in the NM dust a little bit to weather them.