Casey

If it's directed toward the model itself, not the builder, and the builder is open to criticism and critiques, you should get...well, however the builder wants to respond. I know what you're saying and won't deny it happens, but there's nothing wrong with an honest critique and fair criticism. Few people are great a giving criticism, and even fewer are great at receiving it, which is why I suspect so few ask for it. Beauty is on the eye of the beholder, and let's just say some people need to visit the optometrist.

There is no such thing as "too late". Age and experience don't matter, as anyone can jump in (or back in) at anytime. Seeing other people's work and being inspired by it is a clear sign you should keep building. And if we each listed how many paint jobs we each messed up, it would be a LONG topic. We all screw them up, but hopefully we learn how to do it better the next time, and eventually we have success.

Al, when you get around to looking inside one of those kits, please check and see if the tires still have the raised letter Polyglas GT lettering or if they have blank sidewalls.

Credit goes to member "slusher" for this one, but Goodyear Polyglas GT tire decals can be found in this Revell-Monogram '67 Dodge Coronet R/T kit: I'm not sure if any later versions of the same kit included the decals or not, though.

Credit goes to member "slusher" for this one, but Goodyear Polyglas GT tire decals can be found in this Revell-Monogram '67 Dodge Coronet R/T kit: I'm not sure if any later versions of the same kit included the decals or not, though.

I think that is the AMX's engine, yes. Looks like you removed those tube-like stubs and filled in the sides of the block? I like it better with the AMC engine, too. I'm thinking a narrowed '34-ish Chrysler Airflow grille would work? Are those the wheels and tires from the reissued Black Widow pickup kit?

The lack of good reference for this one is the biggest stumbling block for me, but at least I have one straight on side shot to work with. A nice large, clear rear shot would be ideal so I can see exactly what the recessed tail lights look like, but I'll do what I can with what I have. There's nothing worse than getting close to final paint and realizing something isn't symmetrical with the body. I made sure to tape both rocker panels to a piece of glass when I was cutting up and reassembling the body, so it should be square.

If it has leaf springs all around, they either need to be arched more, or you can add lift blocks between the axle tubes and the leaf springs. I think you'll need dually style wheels no matter what. What type of supercharger? It would be easier for us to suggest a kit which might have one, but if you wan to make one yourself, you can do that, too.

If you're using very thin (< 1/32" or so) styrene and bonding it to styrene, you can use a MEK-based glue such as Testors in the round glass bottle, which will soften the plastic enough to allow to to slowly bend and bond it into position. You'll need go work slowly, and use a strong adhesive tape to keep what you've already done in place, as the bond/plastic takes at least two hours to solidify and once you start those complex bends the section of half-round 'behind' the area you're working on will want to move. You could use superglue and accelerator for the straight sections and to make sure it's held in place while to soften, then work the compound curves around the seat. This is what I use: It now has a child-proof cap, but is the same product. Oh, and if you buy it from Michael's, check to make sure most of the cement isn't already evaporated. Three out of four bottles at my local Michael's were near empty, yet still sealed. The newest bottle with the child-proof cap was still full, so you might try looking for the newer cap (and newer product).

I would use the Revell '40, as it should be better detailed than the old AMT kit. I'm not sure what was done to the El Matador's suspension, but if it's close to stock, you could use the ProModeler '40 Ford convertible of the more recent '40 Ford standard coupe kit:

I guess it just looks brighter over white plastic than I thought. I applied some filler on the front framerails, sanded and primed them, and they're getting closer to good: Looks like I need to pick up a '68 Dart kit for the interior bases...should've thought of that earlier.

This picture shows my other concern- it's a tad bit too narrow to match up with the 1/24 Revell (Monogram) pickup's cab, but you did state it was 1/25 scale, and most people will probably use it with the MPC kits anyway.

If you're really into the details, round over the seat's bottom edge so you don't leave a sharp edge...and add seatbelt clips if you're really into details...and building a '67 Dart sedan.

A set of sanding sticks, maybe some needle files, an X-acto knife, superglue, solvent based glue (Testor's, Plastruct, etc.), a cutting mat, etc. There is a topic on the forum which covered the "which tools do I need" subject a few months ago. I'll see if I can find it for you if you get no results via a search.

I usually fill the low spot in with baking powder, then apply a CA-type "superglue" over the top, but I only use that for deeper areas where I want a very solid base. I also try to leave the filled area just slightly lower than the surrounding area, then skim over it with a two-part body filler (Evercoat's Eurosoft is my choice), sand, then prime with a filler primer.

That pic is better. The tailgate appears to be molded as one piece with the bed sides and front wall, with the floor and wheelhouses molded as another piece, is that correct? Will clear red tail lights be included? I guess that's not a huge deal if the forthcoming 1/24 Revell (Monogram) GMC's tail light will work with this bed, since you'd need a donor kit anyway.

That's some glossy paintwork, and bonus points for following the basics and removing the mold seam across the top of the radiator.

Here's something which costs nothing, but I think the small shadow line lends a bit more realism, and helps separate the seat base from the floor, making it easier to paint/texture both. A real seat base like this in't molded as one with the floor, and is never the same sheen (and sometimes a different color) as the carpet/vinyl on the floor, so why shouldn't your models be the same? All you need to do is use your favorite scribing tool to make a small groove where the seat base and carpet meet, like so: I have yet to scribe over the transmission tunnel in the above pic. You can use this same technique to add definition and fool the eyes into thinking parts which are molded as one are actually separate parts, Things like consoles, seats in promo-style interiors, washer reservoirs and batteries in Monogram kit engine compartments, etc. Simply adding a little shadow line, or going even further and slightly undercutting the molded in 'part' will make a difference visually, yet costs nothing, other than a few minutes of your time.

Good idea...: http://www.modelcars...showtopic=61027

It says right on the coupon "One coupon per customer per day".

I picked this kit up for $10 a few weeks ago, and I agree- it's not a great kit. I knew that going in, as I built the turquoise version in the late '80s, but I guess I've gotten spoiled over the last 20+ years as far as new kits are concerned. This kit does have a nice set of 5-lug turbine wheels (15"x~7"), chrome "Chevrolet" script valve covers, CB radio and chrome CB antenna, and the snorkel hoodscoop is straight out of the '77 JC Whitney catalog (6", 8" or 10" height?), but the rest of the kit leaves a lot to be desired. As Hans said, this kit was a late '70s Monogram creation, which means some liberties have been taken as far as accuracy is concerned.

It's a very nicely molded kit IMO, one of Revell's best. It was released in '88 or so when Revell's rebirth was at it's peak, and they put out some very nice kit in that time period, this T-bolt included. I don't know how well the molds have held up, but the earlier maroon- and orange-molded kits are great, with very crisp details, especially on the bodyside spear trim. This kit also included three sets of wheels, and IMHO, the nicest 14" and 15" Keystone Kustomag Klassic and Radir wheels done in bi-scale.

In order to be protected by eBay/PayPal's seller protection policy the seller must ship via some service which offers delivery or signature confirmation, so that the seller can prove the item was received. This means he has to ship via USPS International Priority Mail at a minimum, as that is the cheapest USPS International service with which you can get delivery confirmation. You cannot get delivery confirmation with USPS First Class International shipping, so it doesn't matter if it's cheaper or not- the seller has to have delivery confirmation on the package, so Priority Int. IS the cheapest. Pay and print postage online via PayPal = customs forms get filled in automatically, and print out just like any other shipping label. No more customs forms. Plus, if you can hand them to the mail carrier, you don't even need to go to the Post Office to drop them off.

Can you get larger, better quality pictures, Eric? It's hard ot make out any details in those images.

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