Casey

He stated exactly where he WOULD ship to. If it's not listed, the seller DOESN'T SHIP THERE. Tibuktu? Nope. Swaziland?? Neagative. Santa Claus at the North Pole??? Sorry, Santa, he doesn't ship there. It was perfectly clear to me the buyer oniy ships to the U.S. because HE STATED EXACTLY THAT IN THE LISTING. This is cut and dry, The buyer did not follow the listing terms. What happend after that doesn't matter, as the buyer didn't follow the terms of sale.

Welcome to the forum, Clyde. What is the gold car posed on the washing machine?

24 hours...check it now, and if it's not in USPS's system, VOID IT!

The seller never wanted to ship outside the U.S in the first place! He's covering his backside AND going out of his way to offer USPS Priority International shipping to someone who didn't read the terms of the listing, and now wants the seller to accommodate him. The seller is going beyond what is required in this case. It is the buyer whom is not reputable.

It states where he will ship to, not where he won't ship to, and it only lists the U.S. You didn't read carefully enough, and missed that he only ships to the U.S. You made a mistake, so be honest and let him know you missed the fact that he only ships to the U.S. and you'd like a refund.

Click on the "Shipping & payments" tab and you'll see it states: Shipping to: United States From the listing: http://cgi.ebay.com/...cvip=true&rt=nc Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing. Shipping and handling Item location: San Bernardino, California, United States Shipping to: United States Change country: Sorry, but the seller is right on this one. He clearly stated he ships to the U.S only, so you should not have bid.

6=8! Don't forget that loooooong alternator bracket, or Harry will get upset.

Looks too close to neon for me to guess Testors Limelight or Big Bad Green (if they make that), so I will guess Krylon Safety Green? I DO know it got my attention.

Here's a good example of how pad printing is done:

A heads up that sunglasses would be necessary would be appreciated, Chuck. The interior looks very nice..and bright.

I attached the firewall and radiator support to the body shell, leaving the tiny bit of glue squeeze out between the firewall and inner fenders to be passed off as scale seam sealer. I sanded off the high points on the inner fenders, too, as they are way too sharp and crisp looking out of the box, looking nothing like mass-produced, stamped pieces: I still have to remove that block-like protrusion, which is supposed to be the battery tray. Granted, most of it is hidden when the battery is installed, but it's one of the weak points in the engine compartment, so out it will come: I cleaned up the front frame rails, removing the bulges around the K-member mounting holes and filling in the holes, adding strips of very thin styrene to cap the top of the rails and provide a cleaner edge when I apply putty to fill in some sink marks and casting other small flaws. They needn't be perfectly flat and smooth, but they need improvement: I also did some minor work on the K-member, removing the locating pins and making it look more like a Slant Six K-member, which required removing some of the extra big block bracing. I will make up some engine mounts and attach them to the K-member using the assembled engine as a locating guide.

I knew I needed to reinforce and/or add some material to support the new rear valance panel, so I added a few filler pieces of styrene on both sides and welded them all together: You can see how it was barely hanging on in this older pic: I also added some thickness to the rear "trunk" panel by welding a piece of styrene sheet in place. The real car has a very subtle hump in this area, and the reveal along the bottom edge of the rear window opening is considerably wider than the stock Gremlin's, so I knew I had to build up that area slightly...and eventually sand it down again, at least on the edges. Thank goodness for spring clips: The beltline peak on one side of the body still needs a little more definition, so once that's done the line can be carried through to the rear, setting the bumper height permanently. The rear bumper visually dominates the back end of the car, and it's a complex shape, so I need to make sure it's spot on. I still have some work to do on the roof, as the contours of the AMX and Gremlin roofs were not a perfect match, so there's a small dip which needs to be filled: You can also see how the trailing edge of the window opening has been moved rearward, visually thinning out the C-pillars and taking away some of the stubbiness. The left side still needs to be done: I added an orange line to highlight the difference side-to-side, which is easier to see in this top view:

It was just an idea. The ground effects/body kit wouldn't be too difficult to make totally from scratch. Just gotta get some styrene, a strong solvent glue to bond the plastic, and the usual tools.

Ray Raymond, I'm not sure if any of the Z/28 or T/A kits from that era came with separate splats, bit getting ahold of some more of those and placing them on the body where they currently aren't would be a good first step. That way, you could add a rocker piece on each side, connecting the two splats, then making a rear valence extension to match with the rest.

I bet it is...what time should I stop over?

Good decision. I think they would blended in too much if they were flush, and now you have a nice edge to polish and add definition. I guess I will be dragging the GT back out...I tell ya, the peer pressure is heavy in this CB.

I would suggest you start with something better detailed than the Monogram Superbird, especially since you'll probably end up modifying it heavily...and still be stuck with that molded-as-one exhaust and rear end. Maybe the 1/25 MPC/AMT '70 SuperBee kit would be a better starting point? It's definitely cheaper and easier to find, and the interior tub is a bit shallower, too.

I would also start with a few different thicknesses of stryene strip or sheet, and rough out the shape, then sand, form, and use as little two-part putty as necessary. If you laminate the styrene strips, you can make more complicated bends with thinner pieces, while retaining some strength.

Thanks, Brian. I think I was thinking of the standard '69 Daytona kit, as I recall seeing the p/e grille on the box images.

There's nothing silly about your question, and less about being colorblind. It's something those of us who see the full range of color take for granted. Grey, white, black, tan/beige, and white are good interior colors, since they go well with most exterior colors, so any would work well with a blue exterior.

An oldie but a goodie. Very nice work and super clean.

I'm likin' that roof piece. At least you won't have to handle it quite as gently now, huh?

I don't think that issue will ever be resolved. It's been debated over on the Moparts forum before, too, with no clear answer. Are those aftermarket trans cooler lines I can see through the lower valence panel opening? I definitely think you should do the flattened tires. That really adds a lot to the overall look IMHO, as silly as that may sound.

*egg on face*

No, $92.00 for the '81 Suburban kit from The Modelhaus: http://www.modelhaus.com/index.php?c=4064&p=70026 Back on topic, I hope whoever casts this gets rid of those access panel lines the Fall Guy bed had, and uses a Hardcastle & McCormick or earlier bed to base the conversion on.