Casey

One could also look at the glass being half full and say Revell gave us a two all-new kits of the '66 Chevelle wagon and a '66 El Camino.

Did you try to get your money back or get a replacement bed? I wouldn't bother trying to repair the bed, in all honesty. Start with a solid foundation or all of the work you put on top of it is at risk. Which trucks are you looking for? Trucks not available in kit form?

I guess it's a sign of how good we as modellers have it these days, that people still find a way to complain about a kit missing stock wheels and tires because that's how they want to build it. I bet a dozen members have a set of stock '56 tires and hubcaps in their parts boxes and would gladly trade them for the aftermarket wheels and tires. As Mark hinted at, perhaps Revell has done some research and marketing and found most people don't want to build this kit stock, and that's why they omitted the stock wheels and tires.

Of course they will, but you also have to consider the cases where the account holder clears out his/her account after the money is transferred, then closes the account/card and stiffs the buyer and eBay/PayPal.

I didn't get it. There's a whole lot of information we are not privy to-- your history with both eBay and PayPal, how your account or card is linked to PayPal, etc., etc.-- and quite frankly, I don't want to know any of that information, so please don't post it. For whatever reason (again, I would be speculating), PayPal seems to have decided you are a risk, so they've taken action to prevent possible losses. Nothing to take personally. It's just how they decide to run their business. I will gladly keep selling on eBay. The benefits far outweigh any problems I have ever experienced.

It would really help to know which specific vehicle you are detailing, too.

Just a heads up if you like these Chevy billboard ads. I saw two or three of them ("...poodle skirt" was one of them) on the front wall of Hobby Lobby for $50.00 each, but they appeared to be five feet long and maybe two feet tall? They were thick, like a painting on a canvas stretched over a wood frame, so they were substantial looking. Might be worth checking out with the 40% off coupon in hand of your man cave needs some wall art.

Try TDR Innovations: https://sites.google...-turbo-chargers I believe they can produce the same parts in 1/25 scale, as needed.

There are plenty on eBay, and two with a BIN price of $32.00 including shipping.

This was a mostly box stock build, but I used Detail Master's braided and solid line, as well as their machined aluminum A/N fittings back in '96. Click on the image to enlarge it...

I would suggest you try the flocking most people use for 1/24 scale models, as it would look more in scale in 1/12 than it does in 1/24 scale. Unless you're replicating shag carpet, cut pile carpet strands are less than 1/4" tall in real life, so on a 1/24 scale model they'd need to be at most .01042" tall. You'd have to grind up the flocking with a mortar and pestle to get it that fine/short, but I think it'd look a lot better than it does straight out of the package.

I used to use those, too, but IIRC, they are metallics, and not the most realistic for a clear plastic lens. I have used a red Sharpie marker on the inside face of the Monogram '70 T/A's tail lamp lenses, and it turned out fairly well. It's difficult to get and even coat on the clear plastic, though, and if you let it dry and go back later to apply a second coat, the second coat tends to partially remove the first coat since the ink is laid on a smooth piece of plastic. I still think the Tamiya clear red and amber are the best choice.

The trans kit is no longer available from Scale Productions, sadly. It was the only source for a nicely done '73-'86 style Fleetside bed.

That's a really good point, and one I hadn't thought of previously (no surprise there ). Say you were building a street/strip car and built a 6-point roll cage inside the car using only the sprue. It would be interesting to see just how extensively the sprue pieces could be utilized on a model, and just how far such an idea could be taken.

Click here, as it's been discussed in the New Kit Reviews section a bit: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44137

I've gotten lost on Magnetic Brain for hours at a time. Lots of great vintage pictures and stuff to be seen there.

As Harry said, only certain types of file extensions are allowed- .jpg, .gif, etc. I have no idea which are allowed or not, but it looks like you figured out how to do it above. ^^^

They add carbon black to the rubber mix at some point, as raw rubber from trees is whitish in color. I skimmed over this article (the one mentioning colored tires were going to be available stateside soon), and IIRRC,the tires were not durable enough (compund too soft?) to make them viable as a street tire in the price and lifespan categories most U.S. buyers have come to expect. I think they're a great idea if they perform just as well as the traditional black tires. I don't see how colored tires are any different than customizing your vehicle with a different colored set of wheels or similar. Variety is a good thing, provided it's done with taste.

I've never had any luck with the freezer trick. If everything is properly glued and the two piece of plastic have been melted into one piece by the glue, there is no longer a joint for the water to get into, and the plastic will break the weakest point...usually not where you want it to break. Did I ever mention why I don't buy built models?

That turned out nicely, Mike, and the new(?) display base is a definite upgrade over the old spray booth floor.

This is the pitfall of "opening" a trunk on a model-- there's a lot of detail which needs to be added to make it worthwhile, and most of it involves scratch building. I'm assuming you will eventually display the car with the trunk open, in which case the underside of the trunk lid and trunk hinges will be highly visible. You may want to add the trunk lid's underside framing/bracing, and look to the reference pics you have to make a realistic trunk hinges. It's not easy to do by any means, but would add immensely to the realism you're trying to achieve. The trunk may does look nice and will add a some "believability" when it's all finished, and IIRC, the Charger kit includes the package shelf bracing, which comes in handy on a build with an opened trunk.

From RMR's 'site: This resin conversion was discussed in the Resin section before, so try a search and see what it turns up.

From RMR's 'site: Nose, Fender Scoops, and Wing (Uses General Lee) I'm not sure where I found this, but I believe this is a pic of the master, and you can see the nose, scoops, and wing parts at the right: There are a few Japanese kits in 1/16 scale, but I doubt much would be good for use on a '69 Charger to be honest.

Altered States offers a resin cast 1/16 scale Ford Cammer engine in two varieties: http://www.alteredstatesmodels.com/1-16%20Goodies.htm

I have twenty unbuilt kits or so, but have never had move than 30 or so. I am lucky to finish one kit every five years, and eBay and swap meets always have what I'm looking for if it's an older kit. Darrin, if that yellow and orange '67 Impala is a Radio Shack R/C car, consider selling it as the fetch a good amount on eBay. That'll help you thin the collection of stuff and make Shelly happy.