Casey

Round2 could never modify this kit into a stock Charger, considering what a sales guarantee DOH kits are, but it sure would be nice if they did. I think they'd just be better off starting from scratch, but even a Daytona variant would require a new body shell, so we'll have to be happy with RMR's conversion.

Keep your eyes peeled on eBay, or maybe you'll find one at the Milwaukee Miniature Motors swap meet this coming Sunday at the Waukesha Expo Center.

You must have the '34 Ford 3-window coupe, as the Phaeton includes a 4-bbl aftermarket intake manifold and two-piece 4-bbl carburetor. The carb isn't the best, and I think the carb from the DOH '69 Charger kit is much better detailed, but it's probably a 850cfm+ carb, so it may look oversized on a street vehicle. The air cleaner which is included is about 10" in scale diameter, and it's from the billet era, so that may be a good or bad thing, depending upon your opinion.

I don't think waiting an extra day for a package sent USPS First Class is going to be a major inconvenience for most people. If you want it faster, pick it up yourself. USPS is still a very good bargain for shipping packages, and I will remain loyal even when rates and delivery times increase.

Not sure if this is appropriate to ask or not (if not, tell me so or reply via PM, please), but what is the relationship between Shapeways and TDR? It seems that Shapeways actually produces the parts on an as-requested basis, and TDR provides them with the design specs, but this is the first I've heard of Shapeways in regards to TDR. I watched the video of prepping the turbos, and the finished product Shapeways provides appear closer to a clear plastic(?) than the parts I've previously seen from TDR, so maybe that's another reason my curiosity has been piqued. I will admit to still being hesitant due to the texture limitations, but I get the feeling that is not going to be a problem in the next few years as the printing resolution gets finer and finer.

Other than the Ferrari California, SVO Mustang, and '67 and '62 Impalas, most of these kits appear to be older stock which *I think* Revell is discontinuing, so maybe that's why WalMart is carrying these kits? I did see the '02 Camaro is on clearance at Michael's, the green Monte Carlo has been replaced by the red version with stock wheels for a few months now, and I swear that '66 ElCo is being discontinued, too....

That should be required reading for everyone. Excellent info.

My favorite detail is the windshield washer fluid reservoir. It has clearly absorbed just enough oil and grease, but has yet to become brittle enough that it crumbles apart when you grab it to remove the cap and refill the reservoir. The battery clamps are as nice as I've ever seen on on model, and the black painted bumpers scream 1986. Nice work.

I hate to be the pessimist here, but that also probably means Round2 is now responsible for the maintenance and storage of all the tooling. Not exactly a small thing to take care of and protect/maintain. Maybe they have a deal in place with whichever company (or companies?) in China is using the molds to produce parts/kits, but the responsibilities and costs almost always increase when one buys instead of leases. I have seen mostly great thing from Round2 in the last two years, but the lack of any newly designed kits makes me a bit cautious for the future. Maybe they can survive on straight, modified, and corrected/repaired re-issues, but I think eventually they'll need to take the risk of introducing an all-new kit to their auto lineup.

It's not about texting and driving: "The pistol-grip remote control can be linked to an iPhone equipped with the Traxxas Link app, which offers real-time telemetry including speed, rpm, temperature and battery voltage. It’s required to unlock the XO-1’s top speed." It's marketing, and it's a great idea. Odds are good most people who will buy such an R/C car already have an iPhone, too, so why not essentially make them download your company's app?

It's always the second punch that attracts the ref's attention. Either way, I guess this is god news for modelers, but I really have no idea what the specifics of Round2's previous license with Tomy were, so we'll have to wait and see what the future holds.

Tim, Go to www.autocolorlibrary.com and there you can search for thousands of factory colors and view actual paint chips. I believe the color you're looking for is "Sandpebble Beige". I know it was used on '70 models and was not a very popular color, so it may have been carried over from '69.

This is just the body, hood, and tailgate, but I received my end of a trade with member Demoninc (aka, Mike Whetstone) today. Mike's a good trader and I'm glad to have finally gotten my hands on a 1/16 Revell Jeep

I'm in and will be building something similar to the AMX GT show car"

As stated, there are various brands and models or both resin and silicone rubber, so it's best to decide what you want, then find which products match your need most closely. For instance, if you want a lot of time to allow air to be evacuated, use a slower setting resin. Alumilite's tan resin sets very quickly-- too quickly for any complex shapes or undercut parts IMO. Choosing a slower setting resin will give you more time to de-gas, mix, and pour, but the tradeoff is a longer curing time. Same thing for the rubber you chose. Research the different hardnesses available, and chose the one which best meets your needs. Sometimes a softer, more flexible rubber is best, and other times a firmer mold rubber is the best choice. There is no single perfect brand and model of resin nor mold rubber for eveything, so you need to experiment through trial and error to find what works best for you. For beginners, I would suggest a very slow setting resin, to give you time to get used to the casting process and the steps you must follow. Using a fast-setting resin will only lead to frustration and wasted money. In my experience, Alumilite's White (or Amazing Casting resin, exact same product) casting resin gives me the most consistent results, and is less affected by an imperfect mix ratio, at least compared to the Smooth-On's Smooth Cast 300 resin. Resin is affected by temperature and humidity, so the more consistent you can be in regards to both, the more consistent your final product will be. What works great for one person may not work for you, so take in all the advice you get, try different products and methods, and use what works best for you.

There is a tutorial for using Photobucket to host your images right here on the forum on the Tips section: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12248 The attachment feature of the forum is great for uploading one pic per post, but it's a lot easier to use a photohosting 'site like Photobucket, at which you can edit and modify your images before you add the image link to the body of your post here.

Bryan, did you use Testors Citrus Yellow Metallic to paint this body? Whatever you used it looks great, and the Firestone Wide Oval tires really caught my eyes, too. Are those from a die-cast vehicle?

It might be easier to paint the entire body first then go back and hand paint (with a wide brush) the roof insert area. If I remember correctly, that area is canvas or another type of fabric on the real '32 Fords, so you could even use a flat white if you want that area white. You shouldn't get any brush marks if you use a wide brush, have the paint thinned correctly, and apply the paint quickly. It's a difficult are to mask and spray, while still maintaining a sharp edge between the two colors, but if you use a water-based paint you can wipe off anything you don't like as it's being applied.

It's a simple kit, no higher than Level 2 according to Revell's ratings, and they seem to like to package some of the Monogram kits ('55 Ford pickup, '32 Ford, Thunderbird Turbo Coupe) as well as former Snap-Tite kits under the Monogram Classic Cruiser line in an attempt to distinguish these kits from the more modern, complex Revell kits.

Because he stated he doesn't want people e-mailing him and they did not follow his instructions. Second, it was on craigslist, not eBay. As for the O.P.s question, yes the buyer didn't read your terms closely enough, but it happens. Sometimes we forget that not everyone understands the language we choose to speak, and not everyone is as fluent in that language as we are, but it the buyer's responsibility to understand the terms of the auction before bidding/buying. I ship USPS International First Class packages via eBay, including some to MCM forum members in Brazil, and have yet to have any problems (knocking on wood as I speak), but it is well within the seller's right to cancel any auction because the buyer did not abide by the seller's terms. Go to your My eBay page and see how to cancel a transaction.

Gorgeous work, Matt. Give yourself a few pats on the back for building this one.

Like a Pro Street tire, like so?:

I'm going to assume from the word "Roadster" and not "Convertible", that there are no plans a hard nor soft top for this kit. To me, roadster implies no top at all. I am looking forward to seeing the custom wheels, though.

You saved me from composing a post. They way I look at it is that these Level 1 snap kits are aimed at beginning modelers, so Revell makes them easy to assemble and finish for the target audience. If more experienced builders can also use the snap kits for parts or conversions, it's a bonus for Revell...and us.

I think it would help is you chopped the windshield frame a scale inch or two, but then you get into custom "glass" territory. Or just go for it and replace what's there with the speedster windshield from the Revell Calloway Corvette speedster. Maybe include the snorkel scoop (or two) as integrated headrests somehow... I guess I need to pick up one of these myself, too.