Shark

Good product in my opinion. Sam does some different and welcomed stuff. The decal film is a little thinner, which is what I like, but they do have a tendency to bond a little quicker. Some sheets you have to layer some different colors like the old Fred Cady style decals. You can use setting solutions with no ill effect.

I wish when AMT got in the nascar business, they would have went with 1/24 scale. I liked the look of their Gran Prix better than Monogram, and the more accurate Olds.

I'd say it's more satin than flat. When I use it for tires, I'll spray a little dullcote on them.

Who's car are you building? I am finishing up a Labonte Skoal Olds now without modifying the body, but have another kit that I would like to try that on. Thanks for sharing this.

I'm impressed with what you did with the windshield. The whole thing really, but what you did with that is something else

Early C3 Corvettes. They had a very distinctive body that you wouldn't confuse with anything else. Engine wise, you didn't have to go to a high dollar specialized mechanic for any repairs and performance add ons were abundant.

The twisted forged axle looks like it could still be used, although the track width would be narrowed.

Don't look bad standing still and concentrating on it. Always heard this was a finicky kit to build

I vaguely remember the Cheesecast trans kit, it preceded the Accurate Miniatures kit, so that's why the scale difference. They used what was available at that time, being the AMT kit.

Liking what I see so far. Where did the tires come from?

He could use your 1/43 sheet for reference, but I doubt the quality would be good doubling the size.

Excellent job, as always. Lots of folks bash the Polar Lights kits, but I happen to like them, you can use them on so many different cars.

Look at Drag cars WIP section of this forum, High Anxiety, go to page two, second entry shows several STS made decals.

STS Scale Model Decals. He's working on some for me now, a repeat customer.

" this is the AMT "Old pro" nova kit.being a rather poor kit with many known issues" I don't know, I kinda like this kit. Like the AMT 40 Ford, everyone has built at least one, sort of a right of passage to becoming a car modeler.

I keep mine in the house where it is not subjected to temperature changes . But it does have a shelf life like previously mentioned and 2-3 years is a long time for hardener to remain usable.

I never had much luck tinting windows.

I know the guy who made those masters. Next time I see him I'll ask what he did to create them in case you want to go that route.

Model Car World made the regular wheel base, altered wheel base and a long nose altered wheel base. Don't know if he still shows them on his website, but he still has the masters.

The ones I have seen are more "street" versions, the picture you show is more of a drag configuration. This might be blasphemy to you Mopar guys, but that looks a lot like the GM intakes on earlier Monogram Nascars. Jayes Model Garage 3D prints the GM Nascar manifold that is open under the runners.

Like Steve mentioned, automotive lacquer is my go to on any paint job requiring more than one color. Did a nascar body with 5 colors one time. As soon as I cleaned my air brush, re taped and on to the next color. Done before lunch.

Maybe if you did a ton of body work that might ghost thru when using a hotter paint. I tend not to use a sealer. A lacquer silver acts as a sealer for plastic color bleed thru.

Certainly an unusual engine choice, I like it.

I usually will wet sand with automotive 3M papers, for something like that 800-1000 grit, lightly with a couple drops of Dawn regular dish liquid in the water.

Look at the paint window for recoating. Some products like Krylon say something like you can add a coat up to so many hours in between coats or else you need to wait a day or two for additional coats. I would wait a couple days, lightly scuff it up and put a couple more coats on it. The previous coats will act almost like a barrier since Krylon paints can be a little hot.