Shark

Model Car World had those decals and resin body. Don't know if they still do, but at least they would know what yellow it is.

Most of the time, two coils were mounted on the backside of the firewall in the interior. They would do this to keep them away from heat. Most times I drill a hole in the firewall behind the distributor and stick the wire in there. I don't bother putting any coils in the car because they can't be seen that well. Also, back then they didn't run coil over shock assemblies.

Whatever Pierre does is what I would do. On another forum (now extinct) he had a group of brush painters that had their own pinned topic. He is the master.

I have used the Tamiya smoke in a spray can directly on clear styrene windshields with no problem.

Wasn't much help, really thought someone would have an answer for you.

I just did a search on this site for the Salvino Charger and in a few builds that showed up, no one mentioned it. I haven't started putting mine together yet, so I am not much help. If you don't get any advice here, you might try Short Track Models.com. They have several Nascar builders on there.

Not to be a smart a--, but that's why a lot of builders shy away from the large can Rust-Oleum paints. Plus I always had trouble with the nozzles clogging. If economy is the reason for using it, I use Krylon.

Lacquer thinner also speeds up drying time

I always give primer a couple days to "gas out"

How long did you let the primer coat cure? Where the bubbles occurred may have been paint or primer build up. Like stichdup mentioned, you need a base for pearls.

When Nascar down sized in 1981, they kept the track width the same. To be able to cover the tires, they had to let the teams form their fenders from scratch. Snowballed from there to where it wasn't long before the roof was the only factory metal left on the cars. Concessions kept being made as far as aerodynamic improvements and you ended up with a bland front wheel drive street car becoming a killer looking race car.

That's why I don't watch those guys. Their stuff is shelf models you look at from 5 feet away. I want my models where someone can take the hood off and see a nicely detailed engine or an accurate chassis underneath. Would rather look at "Works in Progress" builds on this site. You learn more. Plus, as much as kits and paint costs nowadays, I want the process to last a bit longer.

Quit starting new projects when I have so many unfinished ones. Quit buying more kits when I have more than I could ever build.

I always thought green cars were bad luck. But I wanted a late 60's-early 70's Nova and came across a green one and bought it. I painted it white, but it still knew it was green. Had more trouble with that car than anything else. I mentioned old Cadillacs in an earlier reply. Like to add later model square body El Caminos to that list. Been keeping my eyes open for one, but the prices have become ridiculous for them.

The primer may have been applied a little thicker in that particular area and caused that reaction.

The vendor I have purchased from said not to get the parts wet, might reactivate the resin. I just use a small pair of scissors, cut close and file.

Old Cadillacs

I have a couple of those old bodies and will definitely be watching what you do for ideas and inspiration. Any special plans for the undersized headlights?

I don't paint tires often, but I usually l tape them flat on a paint stick and spray the tread a black that is a little lighter. After drying, tape the treads up and spray the sidewalls a gloss toned down black. Later apply the lettering decals and once they have set a day or two, spray a couple light coats of Dullcote clear.

You asked about air pressure, I adjust it until it feels right, no gauge, just a disposable inline filter. I use my large 20 gallon compressor when painting with the jamb gun, and shooting automotive paint on car models.

Pretty darn cool. I like seeing old survivor builds, takes you back to the times before photo etch, resin casting and 3D printing.

Me personally, I use a small automotive paint gun, most call it a door jamb gun. I've got one at Harbor Freight and it works good. You can crank the air pressure down at the gun and the pattern and volume have a wide range of adjustment. I have shot enamels, lacquer and base coat / clear coat with it. Had mine awhile, but I think it was about $40.

For 1969 on the Nascar circuit, they called the long nosed car a Cobra while running the 427. Once the 429 was approved part way in the season, they used the Talladega name. Not sure on the previous years.

Just a little on the ones I have. Not near as much as the Talladegas. I am not as knowledgeable as other on this body style, but have seen comments on the shape of the front edge of the hood not being accurate.

The Monogram Hemi Cuda comes to mind. Been awhile since I seen one, so I won't vouch for it's accuracy.