Shark

Forgot to mention in my previous response, after putting the decal lettering on and letting them dry, I mist transparent smoke spray paint on them to tone the white down some.

I scuff them with fine grit sandpaper or scotch bite,sand the tread with a heavier grit, wash them, tape up the tread surface, light coat of gloss clear. Let them dry a couple days, apply lettering decals, let them dry for a few days, then spray with a flat clear. Sounds like a lot, but it's not that hard and the results are worth it.

Do you sleep or eat, or just turn out great drag racing cars

You can get a sign shop that still cuts adhesive vinyl to cut some circles the size you want. They will have a backing sheet opposite the sticky side to hold the shape. Center it up, burnish it down, and remove the backing sheet.

You had to be a brave soul to drive one of those back in the day.

I heard of doing this, but haven't tried it (yet). After pretty much doing what the other guys said, if there is a little indention in the glass, use a toothpick and put some Future (or whatever they call it) floor wax in it. Keep it level while drying and repeat if necessary.

They need to give you your own category the way you crank these things out. Another nice build, glad you're doing them, gets me to reminiscing.

Not trying to tell you what to do, but I would try to find a sheet of Yesterday's Decals for that car. They may delete this, but put a request in the Trading Post sections here and on Randy Ayers forum.

MCW (Model Car World) should have everything you asked about. I know they are transitioning to automotive grade enamels, but may have it in lacquer as well.

You may want to reach out to them yourself.

The AMT 40 Ford is one of those kits that everyone should build at least once. Glad to see they did it in white plastic. Some of the other Coke kits have been red or yellow.

Have you tried sealing the colored plastic with a silver lacquer spray?

Have you cast anything that large before? If you are just starting out, start with some smaller parts and work your way up. To do bodies, you really need a vaccum pump and a container to get the bubbles out of the silicone rubber for the molds. Then an air compressor and pressure tanks for casting. Not to mention the items to get the body ready to make a mold. You may want to contact a resin caster to do it for you. If it's something they can incorporate into their product line, they may give you several copies for the master

Corvettes sort of went by their own rules up until the mid 70's. They didn't sell near as many as their metal bodied siblings, so they could be more accommodating to customer requests. It didn't have to be on the order form, if you knew what to ask for, you could get it. Even in the mid 70's you could order one in primer then the dealer or yourself could have it whatever color you wanted.

Slixx decals carries that hood made by Competition Resins

Sometimes Slixx discontinues a sheet after a printing has sold. You might try contacting them and ask if they ever did that sheet. If they did, you might be able to find it from a vendor or individual. They don't list Nascar sheets anymore, but most are still fairly easy to find. Good luck.

I have never been much on clipping two different bodies together, but what you are doing got my attention. You make it look like something that would make a neat 1:1 custom. I will definitely be watching.

I don't know the configuration of the pin you are talking about, but I drill out the hole like mentioned and use aluminum or brass rod for the pin. You can bend it after it is secure.

Another vote for JB Weld. I usually put it on a little heavy and "carve" out my shape with a Dremel tool and files. Usually the longer something takes to set up, the stronger it is.

The B pillar would vary from track to track. You will find some that are "beveled" looking for aerodynamics where they weren't required to run the side window. As far as the oil tank, the frame in that Pontiac was a carry over from the early 80's and not accurate. By then they were running single Bilstein shocks, the cross over headers were gone among other things. Some of the Lumina kits are cheap and it's not hard to put one under that body.

I like it. That race was an interesting story. The week before the race, Tiny didn't even have a ride for the 500. The Wood Brothers regular driver was injured and suggested they get him to drive.

I wouldn't use Rust-Oleum primer if you gave it to me for free, to many bad experiences, took forever to dry if it ever did. I usually get Plastikote

I like and use some Tamiya, but it does get expensive and my closest source is 45 minutes away. Mostly I use the yellow 3M automotive paint tape. I put it on a piece of glass and cut the widths I need with an exacto knife and straight edge. Don't recall it ever letting the paint bleed under.

Every time I see one of these built, takes me back to my early teens. I knew where I was going to be every Friday night. Spruslayer, I had a sticker of that flag in the corner of the back window of my car. Nobody was offended because they didn't know what they were looking at. Some even asked what country it represented.

WOW - you made me want to go get one.