Shark

Look up wire ferrules on McMaster -Carr website. They are a mail order industrial vendor.

Purple cleaner has been known to attack/soften many resins. If you can get some Westley's Bleche White tire cleaner, I would use that.

I have painted on clear decal film with enamels and put dry transfers on clear with no trouble.

You did a nice job on it. I love that old kit. Been awhile since I built my last one, after seeing yours, makes me want to do another.

Model Car World is in the process of moving, but he makes a Corvair funny car body. Reliable Resin ain't so reliable.

Slixx does some mini sheets of detail items and they have some with mesh.

Did you build it box stock or any part substitutions. Where there any part modifications that you did, the stance looks good. Hoping mine turns out this nice.

I am pretty sure Keith Marks makes decals for that.

That body in not very accurate, heard AMT had lost their deal with GM and had to work from photos. I think it has recently been reissued in some form.

This may be the hard way, but I tape up next to them with Taimya tape and brush or spray them with satin black.

As far as clears, you can put almost any type over lacquer, but not the other way around. Lacquer products are "hot", meaning it can attack what is underneath. I usually prime with an automotive spray primer, then paint. I rarely clear. As far as concerns about MCW, they are the only ones I buy airbrush paint from.

Thanks for the information Mark.

Really like what you did. By studying your pictures, it looks like you cut the frame twice to get the length you were after. Do you mind telling where and how much you cut it. Those frames always looked a little long to me and that's why I haven't finished any of them. Looking forward to your next project you mentioned.

Parts by Parks has a turned aluminum round open element air cleaner.

If the PS you are referring to is the paint for the clear RC bodies, I primed my body with spray automotive primer before using it. Goes on very dull like basecoats. I let it gas out a few days and cleared it.

A 65 or 66 has 3 vertical "gills" in the front fender. 63 & 64 Vettes have 2 horizontal indentions, while the 67 only has 7 (I believe) vertical gills.

I would check MCW. It would be exact and I think they still do spray cans. Most cans on the shelf are 8 or 9 dollars anymore, plus MCW's cans go further. My thinking is what is a few extra bucks compared to the kit cost and time invested in building.

Amen, but sometimes common sense ain't so common as the saying goes.

Taimya makes a semigloss in jars and spray cans that I believe would work. Don't think I would use any clear since you won't be polishing out the finish

Very nice. Those AMT drag Bel-Air kits would be in my top 5 favorite models. Did you do something to the wheels or did they come chromed? I haven't got this version.

You seem to build a little bit of everything and do it quite well.

I like your chassis swap, you can't go wrong with the 68/69 AMT Roadrunner/GTX pieces. Using one under a Johan Superbird.

For some reason, you can find the Pro Shop with the photoetched parts cheaper than the old mold 57. In the last year, I have bought 2 of the one with the yellow car on the box for $20 each from different sources.

Taking the Pro Shop 57 Chevy Bel air for example (yellow car on box), it has photo etched parts for the grill, trim and more, plus the parts count is a lot higher. The trunk is open and has parts to complete the inside of it. Overall higher level of detail.

The Revell 68 & 69 Corvettes are really good kits. You have to watch some of the chinese produced kits as they put the wrong dash and door panels in them. The finished model out of the box sits a little high in the front, so I relocate the mounting pins a little higher and use a smaller tire. Good luck with your build, I will certainly watch this and get some pointers from you.