Shark

Bill Elliott's car during that time ran a narrower track width than everyone else. So his car looked different than the rest. At the time the rules only had a maximum width in effect. The narrow car was harder to drive, but more aerodynamic because the fenders weren't bulged out. One prominent driver at that time said ole Bill tried to pass his operation off as just some country boys gone racing, but there were some engineer types with foreign accents hanging around.

I believe Jim Rodgers (the JR in Salvino JR) 3D prints some stuff for their kits.

Bob, thanks for all the great information. I build mostly Monogram based Nascar's, so I have the materials and tools you mentioned. Just got the itch to build something different and challenging. Is there a specific driver you are building this of? Where do you get decals for these cars?

Always enjoy your builds

Depending on how much you need, many automotive paint stores can mix and put it in an aerosol can. I recently had a can of Petty blue done and it was about $30. Tell them to give you the finer nozzle.

Definitely will be following along on this one. Have a couple of the other bodied versions of this kit. Would debate building one, but the frame sort of scared me. Your assembly looks great, any tricks to putting it together.

The bars you remade are torsion bars, used only on Chrysler products. The first Oldsmobile kits Salvino did were meant to be someone Dodge, but didn't get things worked out. That's why the first ones has leaf springs when they should have been truck arms. History lesson over. Very nice build of a not so easy kit. The Charger body was always my favorite, and Bobby Allison could drive anything.

I don't know if he had an altered wheel base sedan or not. His AWB hardtop was one of the factory built cars that started out as a new A990 car and then transformed. His was one of two that they built with a 4 speed.

The best way is an aftermarket one with photo etched parts. Several sites carry them, Detail Master, Ted's Modeling Market Place and probably Southern Motorsports. Don't know if they have changed from previous configurations on the new cars.

Before you try anything with the decals, scan them as a backup. If the originals fail, you can print new ones or have it done

Depends on who made the resin parts. If they used a mold release spray, I usually soak them a day in Westley's Bleche White tire cleaner, then scrub with a toothbrush. Some casters say water will reactivate the resin. I haven't had that issue (yet). I know 3D printing is taking over, but I still like using resin parts.

Hey Ben, in the first picture, there is an older blue T-bird in the background. Did you replace the front fenders or modify them.

Cool project

Pretty wild looking build, how long is it overall.

I lightly sand the side walls with 400 grit wet paper, then wash the tires with a toothbrush and Dawn dish liquid. Let them air dry and then start coating with your product of choice. Mine is a light gloss clear coat, apply decals, light mist of clear smoke to tone down the lettering, then a coat of matte clear. I use Tamiya spray cans for all of this and wait a day or two between steps.

Gabriel, I agree with what David said. Use the Tamiya spray cans. They have a ton of colors, lay down great, and their TS-13 clear is excellent. I have sprayed it over several other paints, but not Testors spray enamels.

That paint really sets it off. What did you use?

Can't go wrong with black and gold, very nice build. You have done some nice cars with that kit.

On that kit you would have to cut it out. I don't know how good it is, but Southern Motorsports has a racing interior tub for the early 60's Ford/Mercury kits.

Be careful with a marker such as a sharpie, they can bleed through paint. Don't ask me how I know.

Anton, interesting chassis swap, did you have to do any modifications to the chassis plate from the Monogram kit?

Love those old altered wheel base cars. Whose resin body and decals are you going to use. MCW at one time produced the AWB Nova fastback. I have one but don't have the decals. Will definitely be watching your progress.

I don't know much about what kits are available, but a lot of the top teams during that time frame used Peterbilt, Kenworth and the Petty's had a deal with International. All were conventional cabs. A few of the independents used older cab overs, but they didn't have the nice trailers the kit depicts.

Remember when MPC first issued those kits, we though they were pretty good, there wasn't anything else to compare them to. At least they did a good job on most of the bodies. By the way, whose car are you building?

I would say you are correct in stating leave the front alone and raise the back up some. On a well designed kit, I would see that the side roll bars are parallel to the window openings. In your previous build of the Hardee's car, those old Monogram kits had a great stance right out of the box.