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Looking really good considering what you started with. All the work you put into it is paying off.

The reason I got a 3D printer is to do my own designs and this project is exactly that. Now that I have done a few designs and prints, it's time for a unique project. I am designing, printing and building up an English roadster style car and maybe later, a saloon style car. My vision is that it looks like something from the late 1930s, but it has 1950s technology, and would be built today. To that end, I will use a late 1950s Aston Martin engine from a DBR1, my own transaxle gearbox design, and modern tires from Blockley. Being a road car, I don't need an engine with 2 spark plugs per cylinder, but that's the engine's configuration. This will be a nice project where I will design everything (and will borrow a few parts from elsewhere - like the engine). First, I designed some wheels. I didn't know what size spokes could be printed, so I made two versions - one with 0.010" spokes and another with 0.015" spokes. Then I printed them out to check them. I'm thinking the 0.015" spoke version could be used on the saloon car. Wheel with 0.010" spokes. These printed okay and I will use them for the roadster. The spokes are not quite straight, but it doesn't show that from this angle. In the future, I will likely use 0.013" spokes. I used a DBR1 engine design from Bill Cunningham - thanks for putting this out for free use, Bill. Next I designed the frame and a few other components that would make up a rolling chassis. The design in the rendering below is not quite complete, but you get the idea. The suspension is a leading link design. The front is very much borrowed from the VW bug (torsion bar with dampers). The rear is a De Dion axle design. So now I am printing out the chassis to check it and test fit the engine. So, what do you think ?

A really great looking model of the Cord. Very cleanly done. 👍

Thanks for the replies. Mark - most of the time I spend building is preparation of the individual parts. Assembling them together takes very little time in comparison. I usually work on more than one part of the model at the same time, so some steps, like final assemblies go very quickly as the parts have been prepared previously. Steve - thanks for the note about Jochen Mass' recent passing. Tony - The detailing usually depends on what reference pictures I can find. Fortunately, I found plenty on this car except that there were no detail shots of the car in LeMans trim, so I assumed the WSC and LeMans car setups were very similar.

Thank you, Andrew. I have now completed this build. Here is a link to the Under Glass thread:

I have completed this build. Link to the build thread: Now, on to the pictures... Some detail shots. Overall, this was a nice build without many problems. Tamiya did leave out a lot of details in the engine compartment, but I guess they have to balance production costs with how many units they expect to sell. I made a couple of parts with the 3D printer and a few on the lathe. I think the fuel fillers came out really sharp. Thanks again to those who followed the build and commented - it really helps keep the motivation going. Now on the the next project!

Thanks Nacho Z and Mark. I will be using Tamiya TS-13 clear coat. First decanted and sprayed lightly with an airbrush, then heavier wet coats with the rattle can. The silver is TS-17 Gloss Aluminum.

Thanks for the kind words, Pierre. I couldn't do it without an airbrush. Tires in progress. Got some decals on the body before a clear coat. This thing sits really low to the ground! Looks like about 1 mm to the ground. Wheels on now. Thanks to all that have dropped by and commented. It really keeps the motivation going.

Some body work in progress... Here we have the remade headlights and the fuel fillers detail.

Great result - you've earned a vacation. 👍

A marvelous result that really fits the theme!

I think the rusty chrome bumpers are perfect for the overall theme of this build.

The kit left out a number of rear wing support tubes. I also added an air jack air line and an air line hookup to raise the car. Wheels in progress. Will add valve stems later. Still lots of handling to be done with the wheels and I don't want to damage any work I've already done. I've started studying the body details and now working on them. Thanks for looking in on this project.

I apparently missed this build. Excellent result, Pierre, and a nice addition to your collection. I read somewhere that getting a license to model Jim Hall's cars is very reasonably priced, but Mr. Hall insists that the models be very accurate.

Super looking details, Pierre. I like the insulating mats.

I appreciate the info on the other salt flat cars and the fact that you have researched these subjects, Pierre. Thanks. I'm sure this will be a very unique model when you are done, knowing the extent to which you detail your models. Looking forward to more updates!

Excellent work all around, Chris.

Well, you know your way around the machine tools!

Normally, I don't think the 'salt flat rules' would allow one to keep the potentially flammable interior panels in place. It doesn't cost money to rip them out. But since you are keeping them, here's a thought: 1) Paint a flat finish on them if you don't have one already. 2) Use dry pastel chalk in dark gray or brown to give a dirty look in spots, maybe a lighter application all over. Apply with a dry sponge and rub it in. The flat finish will grab onto the chalk powder. You may want to experiment on other parts first (goes without saying). 3) Maybe explore ways to simulate tears or cuts in the vinyl. Cover sections like the top edge of the door, top of the dash, or arm rest with foil, then cut into it and peel back the edges slightly. Then repaint - the interior of the panel would probably be a dirty white color. You may have other ideas about what to use in place of the foil (a thin masking tape or adhesive backed vinyl, maybe). Get creative. Would work on the seat, too. These are just a few first thoughts. Try something new you haven't done before.

Looks great! You'll have to weather up the interior panels to match the condition of the chassis and body.

Okay, I believe the engine compartment is done now. This car sure has a lot going on back here. The rear wing mount is next.

"Oh... on a side note, anybody want to do a few laps strapped in the "comfy" mandatory second seat? Ouch!" And no safety belts either! A couple more progress shots. 3D printed blow off valve actuator vs. the kit part. Getting the right side finished. The hole in the heat shielding is for a duct from the body into the turbo inlet area. More details to do!

I made the shocks myself. I plan to make a few more small parts on the lathe for this project.

I'm glad to see you finally shoved this one across the finish line. I know there were frustrating times and difficult times, but the whole experience makes every model you build afterward easier, mentally and physically. As was mentioned before, you definitely qualify to be a scratchbuilder (that means we all have higher expectations now 😁). This one has a very good level of detail and the end product looks very sharp. I'm looking forward to seeing what's next!

It's good to push your modeling boundaries! You're checking all the boxes so far! I especially like the rust paint job on the body.