DJMar

Ah, memories. Way back in late 1987, when the Nova was announced, we didn't have the internet, so it was just word of mouth. The stock Nova was released in '88 with the Pro Street version coming in '89. Don't forget, in '87 we also got the Monogram '37 Ford Sedan. You knew all these kits were crazy popular because that's all you saw at contests; tables full of Novas and '37 Fords was such a late 80s-early 90s thing. SAE even devoted an entire issue to the '37 Ford. Back to the Nova. I think folks forget how groundbreaking that kit was at the time. I remember all the buzz around the level of detail, the chassis molding, the separate interior panels, and the spare engine having 4 bolt mains. And we got that spare engine with a realistic stand! We even overlooked the engraved rearview mirror in the first issues of the kit (later corrected), because the rest of the kit was so good. We took it as a sign that AMT was paying attention to the "serious, adult modeler". Fun times. Anyway, I think the buzz for the '60 Nomad and the Mack B is more than justified, and I'm here for it. I hope they sell a million of them.

Yeah, I'm digging this. Can't wait for the kit.

Yeah, it's a one part putty that is pretty solvent heavy, and the solvent does sit on top of the tube. The last few tubes I bought required quite a bit of mixing. Sort of like that peanut butter you have to stir, there's always glop at the bottom. I'm not saying it doesn't work (I've used it for40+ years), or that it doesn't work for you, but I think it's not the best choice for a beginner, which is the point. IME, Tamiya Basic is way more forgiving all the way around. YMMV.

I must be in the minority, because I love Chrysler Rallye wheels. Clean and classic. They have my vote. As for the color on any 1970 Mopar, ya gotta go High Impact. C'mon now. Sublime! Top Banana! Go Mango! Panther Pink!

Paint is a whole different discussion. It's easy to get lost in the sauce when talking about it. You'll see a bunch of different opinions on the subject, especially about what's best to use, what never to use, what I use that's better than what you use, what the autobody guy uses, etc.. I'll offer the following, with the caveat, again, that this is just my opinion: 1) Primer. You can go with hobby specific paint for primer (Tamiya Fine, Mr Hobby, Humbrol, etc.) as it has a finer grain and lays down smoother, in thinner coats. It's going to produce a better base for your color with less work. You can also use auto primer like Duplicolor, but it requires some extra prep & finishing steps. Not the end of the world, but something to think about. 2) Color. Contrary to my stance on tools and tape, I highly recommend sticking with model specific paint for this, especially when you're just starting out. I'm not sure Tamiya sprays (TS line) are available in Canada anymore, but Testors, Humbrol, Mr Color, and the rest all make aerosol cans of quality paint that make it easy to spray your model. If you can get your hands on Tamiya sprays, then my suggestion is to use them. They are a synthetic lacquer, so they're easy to apply, spray out nicely and dry quickly. If not Tamiya TS sprays, then I suggest Testors Extreme Lacquer for many of the same reasons. My third choice for a first time rattlecan job would be good old Testors enamels. They are a bit harder to apply smoothly and take much longer to dry, but folks have been spraying enamels since the dawn of the modeling era and somehow we've all survived. Can you spray your kit with the big cans of Rustoleum, Krylon, Duplicolor, yadda yadda? Yes, and I'm sure there are many fine modelers out there that have used these paints with much success. Would I recommend it for someone new to kit building? Absolutely not. I've used Bondo Glazing and Spot putty for decades, and I'm comfortable with it. If you've been building for a while, then sure, it's a solid choice. However, I wouldn't suggest it to first time users for a few reasons. First, the solvent often separates, leaving you with thin putty slurry on top and a much thicker, goopy mess on the bottom of the tube. Two, if not mixed properly and given enough time to fully dry, it will cause problems in your finished paint jobs. The reason I suggested the Tamiya Basic putty for a new modeler is that it doesn't have any of those issues. It doesn't separate, it has a uniform consistency, goes on smoothly and dries very quickly. It's not meant for larger areas (say, skim coating bodywork on a top chop), but it's great for glue seams, pinholes and other molding imperfections. In other words, 99% of what you're going to run into on a box stock build. It's also not that costly, roughly $5-$7 USD a tube, and that tube will last the average builder a good while. Again, just my 2 copper. Excellent point. Uh, no pun intended. I've had an X-Acto Gripster with the soft handle and the no-roll collar forever, and it's my favorite knife.

Unless I'm mistaken, that firewall has always had a gaping hole in it. I remember it from the first time I built this kit (around 1980). I think it was just meant to help the Chevy big block clear the body, and that was the easiest and cheapest way. I guess they never fixed it in later releases of the kit.

Am I seeing $50 for the Revell '71 Mustang? Ouch. Anyway, I'm not a big believer in a whole bunch of model-specific stuff like masking tape, tools, etc., especially when starting out. I think you can build a pretty decent model with a minimum of equipment and a small cash outlay, so what follows is just my opinion. First, add some putty/filler to your list! You'll need it to fill seams, and smooth over imperfections. Tamiya has a basic putty that works well and is inexpensive and readily available. Any liquid solvent glue meant for styrene will be fine. You'll discover what works best for you after you get a few models under your belt. As for the hobby knife, any handle that will take your standard X-Acto #11 blade is good. I would ditch those sanding sponge things at $6 a pop, and pick up a handful of foam backed emery boards from the local drugstore (CVS, Walgreens, etc.) or order them from Amazon. Yes, the double sided kind that are used for manicures. They're way cheaper, last forever and are just as effective. You can find them in coarse, medium and fine grits for less than a buck each. While you're in the store, pick up some inexpensive tweezers. Amazon often has packs of tweezers in different configurations for $4-$6. Speaking of sandpaper, single sheets of 220, 320 400 and 600 can be found at any hardware store. When you need to move into the 800+ grit range for sandpaper, stop by your local autobody shop and pick up individual sheets of 1000, 1200, 1500 & 2000 grit wet paper. It's way more sandpaper for your dollar. One full sheet of each grit will last a long time, and can be cut into multiple smaller squares for different jobs. And yes, get some sandpaper sheets to go with the emery boards, because curved surfaces need sanding too. Since I'm not a fan of Tamiya masking tape, I would take that off the list and just find some FrogTape or decent 3M painter's tape at Ace, Home Depot, Lowe's, wherever. You can cut it into different widths as you need. Once again, it costs less overall and one roll of 2" wide tape will last you months, if not years. Other household bits can be repurposed for model building. For example, a pack of Dollar Store clothespins are actually a bunch of handy clamps. Rubber bands are good for holding things together while the glue dries, too. A cheap carton of wooden skewers (or some leftover takeout chopsticks) will give you plenty of quick and easy painting stands for smaller pieces. Skewers can also be cut down and used as stir sticks for mixing paint or epoxy. As already mentioned, don't be afraid to ask questions. Many of us have been building for decades. Take advantage of that experience; at the very least it might save you some headaches.

The number of Jeeps I've owned is only rivaled by the number of pre-1993 Dodge trucks I owned.

I'm on the fence about skirts on both 1:1 cars and models. Sometimes they look good,and other times I think they make the rear of the car look too heavy. It just depends on the car. Perhaps the idea of a flush fit skirt is a good choice for this one, maybe?

Nice start! This is still a great kit, it's hard to believe it's 35 years old. There are a few little areas to watch, but otherwise it's a straightforward build. BTW, the GM blue that you're thinking of is probably the very popular 1968-70 LeMans Blue.

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Wow. Way, way better fit than the original kit, and it looks so much more like the real thing.

I've built this kit numerous times since its first release in 1994. Even though it is a well engineered model, it isn't what I would call an easy build. Nor is it easy to make the final product look like the real truck, unless you invest some time in filling the cab seams and taking care with overall assembly, especially the suspension. This isn't a "shake-n-bake" kit by any means. The separate lower rear panel with cab corners has always been an issue. Even when new, there was a sizeable gap when the parts were assembled. Undoubtedly the mold has seen some wear over the past 31 years and multiple reissues, which doesn't help the fit. Your best bet has already been mentioned. Attach the kit part with solvent glue. Fill the gap with styrene rod, plastic strip or stretched sprue, and sand it smooth. Then putty, sand and prime until things are ready for paint. Regarding the frame, you can often remove a slight to moderate twist with heat. But sometimes the warp isn't going to straighten out no matter what you try. If your frame is beyond saving, there's this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/236208489156 If your cab is beyond saving, there's this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/336257663051 If you want to buy another full detail kit, try to find an earlier issue, as the parts will be a bit crisper and better fitting. If you don't mind it being a curbside, try to find a SnapFast Plus kit. It's basically an unbuilt promo and might be cheaper.

If that doesn't work out, Iceman offers a front & rear drop for this kit: https://icemancollections.com/products/1-25-1950-chevy-3100-pickup-dropping-slamming-set For $15 + postage, you get two axles and a set of lowering blocks for the rear.

Not going to lie, that Capri is pretty hot. 🔥

Totally off topic, but that Vega is the bomb!

VCG Resins has the 4L80E: https://www.vcgresins.com/shop/p/gm-4l80e-automatic-transmission Good stuff and currently available. Texas3D has the 6L80E, not the 4L80E: https://tx3dcustoms.com/products/gm-6l80e?_pos=1&_sid=bc12e74df&_ss=r

I've used Bare Metal's Expert Choice for the last 15+ years and have been pretty happy with it. They have it for inkjet and laser printers, in both clear and white. To be fair, I've printed emblems, logos, and other relatively small stuff (bumper stickers) with it. I do find it a bit thick. I've never had an issue with it not adhering. It handles enamel & acrylic clears well. It's also inexpensive, about $8-10 for a 3 pack of 8.5x11 sheets.

The Revell kit had decals for the '69 SC. Fred Cady made a set for the '70 Deuce. They've been out of print forever and are going to be pretty hard to find.

Correct, indeed.

Ummm, yes please. I'll take the one in orange, just back it into my garage, thank you. Lots and lots of nice Fox bodies there. Makes me miss my '85. And my '91.

Excellent, clean build, and I really dig that yellow!

Cool beans. The '37 is one of my favorite early Chevs, but the AMT kit is kind of a disaster. Nice work on all of it so far. The front fenders/grille interface and those curvy running boards have always been a pet peeve of mine - good job with getting that all sorted. It makes a big difference in the look of the finished kit.

Oh, yes. Green. GREEN!

Make that 3 versions, then.