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DJMar

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Everything posted by DJMar

  1. This looks really good! Totally late 80s-early 90s street rod stuff right there. Me too, and I keep hoping they will do it with the original (1987) kit wheels, instead of the rollers found in the original convertible kit.
  2. Here's a shot of the instruction sheet - you've got the cylinder heads on upside down.
  3. It's not a problem until you have at least 6 of every kit, and even then... BTW, good on ya for having not one but two Revell Ferrari 308s in that collection.
  4. * laughs in A45 S *
  5. That first pic made me think I was looking at a full sized Ventura. That's an absolutely beautiful model. The paint is like glass. Very clean, very sharp, very tasty build!
  6. Thanks for clarifying that. It's weird because the pic that was posted above (and a few that I've seen online) shows what looks like 8 lugs on the box art.
  7. That's a really, really good observation, and might be why the body feels off. The MPC kit definitely has a pronounced curve from the beltline to rocker, which is prototypical. Totally off topic, but is that a vintage 1980 Monogram Turbo T/A kit in your stash, unbuilt?
  8. I'm curious too, but I don't have the kit on hand. I noticed the 8 lugs too, but I was thinking more about the axles.
  9. She looks really good. That color is spot on, and coupled with that gray interior, it just screams '90s! Unfortunately, that body/rear apron to fender fit has always been fiddly with these kits. I've got a 5 window that I'm messing with now that has the same problem.
  10. Do you know if he's going to be running those wagon wheels on the final build? Because Fireball has those with the proper Ford hubs. As already pointed out, the Moebius '69 shortbed plus the '70 F-100 4x4 will get you most of the way there. What engine is he running?
  11. The Rally Wheel was available in '85, so you could rock these: https://www.fireballmodels.info/fmr-100.html. You might want to do a little modification to the front hubs if you're building it stock, as the Fireball pieces represent manual locking hubs and the NP208 in '85 came with auto hubs. You can get those wheels and some nice BFG tires as a set: https://www.fireballmodels.info/fmr-101.html. Those 31x10.5R15s are going to be pretty close to the height of the tires in the kit, so no additional suspension mods should be needed. There was an 8-hole aluminum wheel and a 8-hole steel wagon wheel available that year as well. Fireball makes a Ford wagon wheel (FMR-230) that might work as the Chevy piece, if you swapped out the 5-bolt pattern hubs for the proper GM 6-bolt hubs. I don't know if the hub swap would work, but you could email Joseph at Fireball if you wanted to go that route. Side note: the wheel/hubcap & tire combo in the kit isn't atrocious. There are issues with the kit wheels, but you cover up most of their sins with the supplied hubcaps & decals. IIRC, that setup was the standard wheel on the Custom Deluxe trim. Of course, all of this is for stock-style builds. I'm sure someone is already building a lifted K5 on 39s.
  12. Those sure look like the AMT Firestone Supreme molds. As Mark said, probably from Round 2. I haven't seen them printed with narrow AND wide whites on the same donut, but then again I haven't bought a recent R2 release of anything that would have those tires.
  13. Here's a pic of the frame with the axles in place. The calipers are measuring from the center of each axle (actual wheelbase). It measures 4.28" (~108.8mm). I measured on both sides to be sure everything was square. 4.28" x 25 = 107" 4.28" x 24 = 102.7" When I said that the kit wheelbase was "pretty close" to scale in 1:25, this is what I meant. With a 1:1 wheelbase of 106.5", it's off half a scale inch, give or take a smidge. The wheelbase is not in scale for a 1:24 model, it would be close to 4 inches short. Still, the kit body still feels big to me, but that's just me.
  14. If you want actual Depron, you can find it online, but it isn't cheap. I've seen it on eBay from a number of sellers. You might be able to find it in smaller quantities locally if you have a well stocked RC shop nearby. They may also have suggestions for similar products that are more readily available and economical.
  15. That's sweet! Really clean build, I haven't seen one of these kits in ages.
  16. Yes, Steve G already confirmed this last month.
  17. You could put an ad in Parts Wanted to see if anyone has a hood to swap. Canuck 3D has a stock '67 grille & front bench seat. As you said, you can modify the kit hood. It's pretty straightforward, as the stock hood is basically flat.
  18. A few random thoughts: Hobbyist Haven is registered in Delaware, which is often used as a workaround for a non-US based business to have a presence in the US without actually being located in the country. They have their own website. There is a drop down menu on the upper right that shows you the site in about 10 different languages (including Arabic, Japanese and Korean). They don't actually list a physical location or phone number, and their only "24/7 support" is an email address. A good number of their product photos are labeled in Chinese characters. None of this is inherently bad, but I'd bet money they are located in, and ship from, Asia.
  19. The AMT Supernatural '67 Impala 4 door kit has a stock hood as well as a standard grille and taillight panel (no SS badging). However, I do not know if these parts swap directly with the earlier AMT '67 Impala SS kits, as I don't have the 4 door kit in the stash to check.
  20. That's a really cool color. Lots of sparkle!
  21. Sweet build on this classic! I'm digging the silver & red color combo. Super nice work on the tail panel and taillights, too, it looks way better than the kit piece. It's crazy to think about how many of the Bad News/Bad Actor/Street Fighter kits I've built over the years, but failed to keep one in the stash.
  22. I love the Skyline, a 4 door R34! Is that the Aoshima URAS kit? Also, really digging the Mitsu. Nice work on all of them.
  23. Here's a higher res graphic, I'll leave it in the original size so you can print it to the specs you need. Because it's white you can't see the borders, but just right click on it & copy, or use "Save Image".
  24. Revell/Monogram '70 Buick GSX.
  25. This topic comes up every now and then. Like most, I was first made aware of soaking resin cast parts in Westley's or Super Clean to get rid of mold release agents, but that was 30+ years ago. I'm pretty sure that info came from a Modelhaus recommendation in one of their catalogs, and was probably repeated in a few articles in SAE. I don't know what folks were using as mold release back then, but I haven't soaked a resin body in anything in decades. I just wash & rinse it, three or more times, with a toothbrush, good dish soap and warm water. I will occasionally use Soft Scrub or other mild abrasive cleanser (Bartender's Friend) on some resin parts, depending on the surface. I've heard of people using Simple Green and other similar degreasers/all-purpose cleaners, but I've no personal experience with them.
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