johnyrotten

This is exactly why I asked the question, recently I was working ith some .020 styrene bent tightly around a curve, as soon as the cement touched it (mr cement s) it just split on me. Tried a few different times, same result. Did not want to have the handle do the same. Thanks for your insight ?

For some reason, this one has a sinister "Christine" type vibe to me. And I know Christine was a mopar.

I just want to thank everyone for their advice. You all are awesome. I'm goingto try my hand a repairing these, it's great to know there's options if that doesn't work out. Thanks again.

Some shots of the deer on my property. There is a small herd that takes up residence every year, gotta figure out how to get them to pay some rent or something. This is three of them.

Great job with this. ?

Welcome to the forum, nice work on the sportster. The mach III was/is a pretty rowdy motorcycle. I owned one for a short time, power band whenever IT felt like it was fun, and interesting at times. Nice projects you have underway.

Thanks, if I can't save these, this is definitely an option.

I have this on hand, I imagine filling the whole opening, waiting for it to cure, and re-drilling sanding ect. would be the best course of action. Minus the visit from my dog, of course.

Thanks for replying, none of my kits have separate handles of this style.

11 years on a battery, good for you. Hopefully the replacement holds up, it has big shoes to fill.

So I was drilling out the door handles, cleaning up the opening a bit with my extaco knife, and harper(my hundred pound sweetheart of a dog) did dog things and now one handle is slit open. Would the best option be c.a. glue, a solvent type type , or something else? Just looking for some options. The handle is still intact and attached, just slit on one end. The blade is pointing to the damage.

I like it. ? it reminds me of every street car I seen during my childhood. Looks good.

My Gmc. I'm the second owner, original owner special ordered the truck from Kutztown cadillac in Pennsylvania. The wife and I drove over and purchased this 2.5 -3 years ago, actually got stuck there an extra day cause a snowstorm came through the east coast. It's currently at the body shop due to that drunk driver incident in the "what irked you" thread. My guy runs a small, busy, high quality shop, so I don't mind the wait for my truck. Quality of work means more.

I heard this often when I was young, later on I worked with a guy, turned out to be a junkie who would say " May the bridges I burn light my way". You can guess where he wound up.

This is looking mean. That rear tire looks perfect. What's the plan for the drivetrain?

Looking good, are you going light or dark with the interior? The color would suite either.

https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/59803-frame-building-jig/

There are many ways to go about building a chassis, or any structure, really. When I modified the chassis for this truck, rule #1 was square straight and level. I did it "freehand". I also am a fabricator by trade. You could simply draw out your frame , make note of wheelbase, track width, ect. and build from the drawing piece by piece. I've seen a few members here do exactly that, can't recall whom or what thread/vehicles. The second image I found online, and have scaled it down and printed it out for another build I have in mind.

Awesome work. I'm going to assume you airbrushed the molotow? I've got to try that with my next build.

Great technique. ?

Nice job on the track width, "duster" based cars have that awkward offset look front to rear, so getting that right make a huge improvement. Nice job.

I completely agree with you. My ranger was a "need a vehicle and this is what's available ". I did everything in my power to make that truck decent in winter. Living in upstate ny, I had no choice. All the wiz bang tech just gets you that much further before your in a bad way. False security.

I've read where with the 2k clears, and V.O.C's in general you can actually build up a sensitivity to them, so no "ill" effects right away to warn you. I've used them in the past on my motorcycles, and after really learning exactly what goes wrong, I take any precautions I need.

New "trucks" just aren't. There glorified 4 door open air mini vans. Same reason I hunted far and wide for my sierra. Limited slip rear was the one option I wasn't living without, that and the MANUAL transfer case. The electronic one's are too prone to failure when you need them most. As far as 2wd, my old ranger with b.f Goodridge k04's and 300 lbs over the axle was completely capable as long as I didn't get silly.

I have one of those rare days off of work(dentist appointment, yay me), so got a bit more done, jumped around a bit this morning. Brushed a wash over the exhaust, touched up some previous work. I didn't like the alternator floating out in space, looked empty to me, so I built the bracket from some .020 sheet. Copied it from a pic I found online, there seems to be a few different styles depending on options. I'm going to do the same for the power steering pump. It just looks bare to me.