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Everything posted by OldNYJim
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Bases, stands and presentation
OldNYJim replied to OldNYJim's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
GREAT collection, and well presented too! A bunch of beautiful work there! Do you recall who makes the little freestanding red case? I want one! -
The Beetles
OldNYJim replied to Mr. Metallic's topic in WIP: Model Trucks: Pickups, Vans, SUVs, Light Commercial
Looking great so far - and I like that chopper! I could really use one of those - can it handle styrene rod and strips too? -
AMT ’59 Buick Invicta Mild Custom! New Update After a Year!
OldNYJim replied to John Goschke's topic in WIP: Model Cars
I really like how that interior looks so far - way cool! -
Question about Dupli-Color
OldNYJim replied to El Roberto's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Question; is it a metallic color, or solid? -
Personally, I got the 4k Mono, and have been DELIGHTED with it: https://www.anycubic.com/products/photon-mono-4k?variant=41229763608738 BUT - I don't intend on printing a tonne of bodies. It CAN print a 1/25 body, but a larger bed would be better if you had the funds, like this one: https://www.anycubic.com/collections/resin-3d-printer/products/photon-mono-x2-sla-3d-printer As always, everyone else's opinions may differ, but I will definitely stand by my recommendation on the AnyCubic machine I have all day long. Prints detail so fine I can't even see it without magnification, is forgiving to use, easy to set up and has been reliable for me over the past year's regular use. Thinking of buying a second one when the price drops some as a backup / second machine
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I'd recommend picking up the latest Model Cars Mag for an EXCELLENT primer on 3d printing...but in the meantime... Do I only need the actual printer? or are there other bits needed to go with it? Printer, plus a way to wash and UV-cure the parts plus some resin and 99% isopropyl alcohol for the cleaning. Here's the matching wash / cure station: https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Station-Upgraded-Machine-Anycubic/dp/B09L81S4L7 Almost all the 'standard' resins require the alcohol to clean up the parts after printing but before curing - but I've just picked up some water-washable resin that cleans with (guess what...) water. Water washable resin seems generally to be more expensive, but you don't have to buy the alcohol and keep straining it to keep it clean, so swings and roundabouts. I wish I'd done this from the start, personally - here's one brand of water washable resin: https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Precision-UV-Curing-Shrinkage-Photopolymer/dp/B09QKQTXNM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3M94C8UBLSA48&keywords=water+washable+3d+printer+resin&qid=1663698890&s=industrial&sprefix=water+washable%2Cindustrial%2C96&sr=1-4 How are they on fumes? Not bad - you can definitely smell it a little but its not nearly as bad as most any solvent based paint or primer. The printer runs with the 'lid' closed and everything enclosed so I've had no concerns about running mine inside, even if the resin does have a faint smell to it. I'd also download a slicer program like Lychee and make sure you're comfortable loading a file into it and doing all the kinds of things you'd be likely to do for real - resizing parts, mirroring parts, adding supports etc etc - Lychee link here: https://mango3d.io/downloads/
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I use those party noisemakers that you blow thru that go WOOOOOOOOOOO - the plastic part is normally a good dimension for scratchbuilding something like this! Slice it in half, glue to a since floor-shaped piece of styrene and then slice out the middle of the floor once the glue has dried to open up the tunnel. Simple!
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I was listening to an online discussion between some artists today, and they were discussion the importance of presentation. Buy the nice leather-bound sketchbook not the cheap kind, use frames that elevate and compliment your work etcetera etcetera. Then, this evening I saw THIS really beautifully done base on a Ferrari build - matching leather, nice engraved plaque and so on: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cinft1bjZfI/?igshid=YzA2ZDJiZGQ= I’d love to see more examples of how other people are ‘framing’ their builds - anyone else here do anything like this? Would love to see it if you do! I have at least a couple of kits in my collection that come with bases and stands too - the Uncertain T has a really nice base with stanchions and rope, and I have at least one Round 2 kit with those dangerous (for the model) revolving turntables powered by a rubber band. Oh, and Scale Motorsports (I think?) made those really nice stands with mirrors and plastic supports. Lets see what you got! (Apologies if this is in the wrong section, mods…this seemed general enough to be ‘general’?)
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That Wikipedia article was my favorite thing I read all week. Seems like she was very hard working, and really worked her way up the corporate ladder!
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8 times out of 10, in my experience, you'll have no issues shooting their enamel over bare plastic. 2 times out of 10, you can get some wrinking and damage to the plastic from the paint - the variable being the plastic. Revell's current plastic can NOT withstand Alclad enamel base, for example. On resin, I would bet you'd be ok, I never had a problem - but anything's possible. For the sake of spending 10 seconds spraying a part with some primer...I wouldn't risk it. Plus, its a lot easier to spot flaws in a part with a coat of primer and fix them than it is trying to fix it with enamel over top.
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Ive had a kit stuck at the infamous Chicago Sorting Center for five months - I don’t understand how it can take long to just give a box to customs so they can check it…but apparently this is SOP for this particular location: I only ordered it from overseas because the exchange rate was favorable and this particular kit wasn’t available here at the time… I was lulled into a false sense of security by the NY sorting office who NEVER ONCE failed to release an international shipment to customs in less than 48 hours, regardless of which country it was coming in from…but the Chicago office routinely takes multiple months it seems
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Halloween Build Ideas
OldNYJim replied to iBorg's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Depends; what flavor? ? -
Revell 32 Ford Roadster REVISED (former Rat Roaster tool)
OldNYJim replied to Mr. Metallic's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Awesome! Thank you for posting those pics @hustinettenbaer! -
Atlantis Models has bought another lot of tooling/molds.....
OldNYJim replied to Dave Van's topic in Car Kit News & Reviews
Looks like the next 1/25 kit (according to this old press release that I forgot about) should be what Atlantis describles as a "sixties All American '23 T Roadster". Looking forward to seeing that one! I nearly ran out of stuff to buy from them (although I have a couple of my wishlist once they update their Amazon store again...) -
Ahem
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Designed some tires and printed them so I can build this kit - it’s missing a few parts, and I never wanted to part out a WHOLE kit that would then, itself, need parts ? Plus, the tires in this issue of the kit are much smaller than the ones in the original issue, so I had chance to correct that too. Next thing to tackle will be a rear axle (I have one, but need two…)
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Thanks fellas! I’m kinda stuck in a cycle of priming, painting and clearcoating bits right now….but, got a couple of bits done… Added the rare underchassis stripes that weren’t really an option…plus, shot some on the dash: Unfortunately, seeing as I’m in progress clewrcoating all these bits I can’t get much assembly started on ANYTHING, although the engine will be first in line…in the meantime keeping myself busy working thru some of the little bits and pieces like the opening up the holes on the steering wheel and prepping the washer fluid bag: Engine parts are in the strip tank getting dechromed so I can Alclad them and start work on the engine this coming week - but I am taking the opportunity to upgrade the kit carb a little with one of these 3D printed Holleys: Not a major update, but it’ll all start coming together once I’ve finished laying down clear on everything blue and can start actually assembling some stuff…more soon!
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Took advantage of Hobby Lobby clearing some of their kits out - there was a bunch of others but these were the three that grabbed me… The ‘40 is molded in bright yellow, and the Vette in bright orange, both of which surprised me a little
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Yes sir! I would’ve picked up those ‘50 and ‘66 Chevy pickups too if they had those. Funny thing - I’ve wanted to grab a 40 Ford delivery for ages now, and the Valpo store never had any. Then, when they finally get one, it’s on clearance already ??
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Congratulations Mike!
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My local store had a BUNCH of kits marked down to $7.49 today - AMT, Revell, some snap kits, that little Airfix VW Bus that they all seem to have - a good mix of stuff too. Making room for new stuff for Christmas, maybe?
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Old ones are the best! Back on the topic of containers - I used to use a lot of the stuff mentioned above for storing parts, half-finished projects, etc.etc. but eventually moved on to three of these: https://www.tenaquip.com/product/quantum-storage-system-drawer-cabinet-plastic-39-drawers-15-x-6-1-4-x-18-3-4-black-pdc-39bk-cg064 I got tired of having jars and tubs and a bunch of smaller containers and then having to remember where I put them or find a good spot for them. I like not having to think about storage for my storage Having identical ones lets me rearrange the drawers to suit whatever organizational system I end up settling on, some day (probably alphabetical, once I've finally decided exactly how many racks all my stuff will be spread across...) - plus they'll wall mount if that's helpful. Cheaper versions of these racks are like $20 at most hardware places - well worth it, to me...
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CAD. Cardboard aided design ?
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Source for tiny metal nuts, bolts & etc?
OldNYJim replied to Monty's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
If you just need a visible flat bolt head, Evergreen styrene hexagonal sprue is a good option - and a $3 pack will make HUNDREDS of bolt heads. Titchy Train Co makes a bunch of sizes in styrene too, with protruding thread and different shape and size heads. The model railroad community has a bunch of useful things that we can use for our purposes - the scales are 'wrong', usually, but luckily the bolts don't know what they're being used on...