OldNYJim

I really enjoy seeing the outstanding craftsmanship on builds like this - that amazing bodywork! WAY cool!

Saw in my Atlantis email today that they’re selling the roadster chassis parts with the axles and suspension pieces, and the competition wheel set on their own, for anyone who might find those useful: https://atlantis-models.com/custom-car-parts-series-roadster-chassis-speed-equipment-atlantis/ https://atlantis-models.com/custom-car-parts-series-competition-wheels-and-mags-chromed-atlantis/

I’m just starting to play with it myself, but taillights printed with red translucent resin would undoubtably work. The clear stuff looks like it wouldn’t probably be QUITE transparent enough, you’d think - but I saw a guy on YouTube polish some clear printed headlight lenses with a Dremel and a polishing bit and they actually looked pretty good! I don’t think printing a usable windshield or glass would be feasible, but theres definitely some stuff you could do! I’ll try and find the video if I can remember where I saw it… Meanwhile in printing adventures today, I got some decent prints with the clear green stuff - and I LOVE how easy it is to clean them up after printing!

They’re not mistakes if you learn from them! Cool build, I always liked this kit! Never built one - I’m gonna have to track one down!

I actually hadn’t considered that you’d need a bigger wash station for a bigger printer - I bet someone makes one! Of course, if you’re printing a couple of smaller things, it’s no biggie to just wash them separately. My normal wash cycle is 6 minutes, and another six for curing, so it’s not a BUNCH of extra time to do two rounds if needed… I picked up some extra vats for my Photon today - the original one had a tiny hole that I spotted in the FEP - it hasn’t caused any damage to the machine luckily, but it time for a change. Got a couple of these for $40 delivered from Amazon - pleased with the quality and they’ve got a nice sturdy metal frame: I also wanted to switch over to a water-washable resin, so I picked up some of the pretty green Elgoo to try: Looks like Halloween! Did a quickie test print on a low res setting to make sure the new vat was going to work ok, and see how the new resin prints…need to tweak my settings because the first few layers separated - guess they need more time on the first layers to help the parts hold together. Was pleased with the first attempt with this new stuff tho!

Nice scores! We never even HAD the pickup or the 53 Vette at my local HL, but I would’ve grabbed those too. I DID get a ‘70 though…

The first issue of the '29 kit had the Nailhead - the most recent issue from a couple of years back has the Small Block Chevy instead. The reissue from last year of the '30 Coupe DOES have the Nailhead, but the original run of THOSE had the SBC.

Baby oil has worked for me before

Looks like I'm gonna be ordering one - thanks for the info Craig!

Yes! Use some Play Doh, push it over the door and drip in some 2-part resin. Some people make the mold with a thick foil and then drop in resin or glue, but I’ve always found the Play Doh method easiest

Aweosome! Thanks for the info! Looks like a trip is in order! I've been wanting a couple of these from there too: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/detolf-glass-door-cabinet-black-brown-10119206/

GREAT collection, and well presented too! A bunch of beautiful work there! Do you recall who makes the little freestanding red case? I want one!

Looking great so far - and I like that chopper! I could really use one of those - can it handle styrene rod and strips too?

I really like how that interior looks so far - way cool!

I’ve never had a MAJOR problem with this phenomenon myself, but I like either Createx thinner or Tamiya thinner for all my acrylics. Both work great - Createx is easy to find if you have a Hobby Lobby near by.

Question; is it a metallic color, or solid?

Personally, I got the 4k Mono, and have been DELIGHTED with it: https://www.anycubic.com/products/photon-mono-4k?variant=41229763608738 BUT - I don't intend on printing a tonne of bodies. It CAN print a 1/25 body, but a larger bed would be better if you had the funds, like this one: https://www.anycubic.com/collections/resin-3d-printer/products/photon-mono-x2-sla-3d-printer As always, everyone else's opinions may differ, but I will definitely stand by my recommendation on the AnyCubic machine I have all day long. Prints detail so fine I can't even see it without magnification, is forgiving to use, easy to set up and has been reliable for me over the past year's regular use. Thinking of buying a second one when the price drops some as a backup / second machine

I'd recommend picking up the latest Model Cars Mag for an EXCELLENT primer on 3d printing...but in the meantime... Do I only need the actual printer? or are there other bits needed to go with it? Printer, plus a way to wash and UV-cure the parts plus some resin and 99% isopropyl alcohol for the cleaning. Here's the matching wash / cure station: https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Station-Upgraded-Machine-Anycubic/dp/B09L81S4L7 Almost all the 'standard' resins require the alcohol to clean up the parts after printing but before curing - but I've just picked up some water-washable resin that cleans with (guess what...) water. Water washable resin seems generally to be more expensive, but you don't have to buy the alcohol and keep straining it to keep it clean, so swings and roundabouts. I wish I'd done this from the start, personally - here's one brand of water washable resin: https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Precision-UV-Curing-Shrinkage-Photopolymer/dp/B09QKQTXNM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3M94C8UBLSA48&keywords=water+washable+3d+printer+resin&qid=1663698890&s=industrial&sprefix=water+washable%2Cindustrial%2C96&sr=1-4 How are they on fumes? Not bad - you can definitely smell it a little but its not nearly as bad as most any solvent based paint or primer. The printer runs with the 'lid' closed and everything enclosed so I've had no concerns about running mine inside, even if the resin does have a faint smell to it. I'd also download a slicer program like Lychee and make sure you're comfortable loading a file into it and doing all the kinds of things you'd be likely to do for real - resizing parts, mirroring parts, adding supports etc etc - Lychee link here: https://mango3d.io/downloads/

I use those party noisemakers that you blow thru that go WOOOOOOOOOOO - the plastic part is normally a good dimension for scratchbuilding something like this! Slice it in half, glue to a since floor-shaped piece of styrene and then slice out the middle of the floor once the glue has dried to open up the tunnel. Simple!

I was listening to an online discussion between some artists today, and they were discussion the importance of presentation. Buy the nice leather-bound sketchbook not the cheap kind, use frames that elevate and compliment your work etcetera etcetera. Then, this evening I saw THIS really beautifully done base on a Ferrari build - matching leather, nice engraved plaque and so on: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cinft1bjZfI/?igshid=YzA2ZDJiZGQ= I’d love to see more examples of how other people are ‘framing’ their builds - anyone else here do anything like this? Would love to see it if you do! I have at least a couple of kits in my collection that come with bases and stands too - the Uncertain T has a really nice base with stanchions and rope, and I have at least one Round 2 kit with those dangerous (for the model) revolving turntables powered by a rubber band. Oh, and Scale Motorsports (I think?) made those really nice stands with mirrors and plastic supports. Lets see what you got! (Apologies if this is in the wrong section, mods…this seemed general enough to be ‘general’?)

That Wikipedia article was my favorite thing I read all week. Seems like she was very hard working, and really worked her way up the corporate ladder!

8 times out of 10, in my experience, you'll have no issues shooting their enamel over bare plastic. 2 times out of 10, you can get some wrinking and damage to the plastic from the paint - the variable being the plastic. Revell's current plastic can NOT withstand Alclad enamel base, for example. On resin, I would bet you'd be ok, I never had a problem - but anything's possible. For the sake of spending 10 seconds spraying a part with some primer...I wouldn't risk it. Plus, its a lot easier to spot flaws in a part with a coat of primer and fix them than it is trying to fix it with enamel over top.

Ive had a kit stuck at the infamous Chicago Sorting Center for five months - I don’t understand how it can take long to just give a box to customs so they can check it…but apparently this is SOP for this particular location: I only ordered it from overseas because the exchange rate was favorable and this particular kit wasn’t available here at the time… I was lulled into a false sense of security by the NY sorting office who NEVER ONCE failed to release an international shipment to customs in less than 48 hours, regardless of which country it was coming in from…but the Chicago office routinely takes multiple months it seems

Depends; what flavor? ?

Awesome! Thank you for posting those pics @hustinettenbaer!