mcs1056

To quote Ricky Bobby, " I said, 'With all due respect'"

I'll ask this; If the relatively smart folks here couldn't tell that Ace was being sarcastic, how will AI be able to tell? One scene from Saturday Night Live I'll often refer to is their spoof of "The China Syndrome." They called it "The Pepsi Syndrome." Jack Lemon spilled his pop on the control board because he was having a heart attack, and things went haywire. His last words to his trainee were, "You can't put too much water in the reactor." He then died. The trainee then had to wonder; Did he mean there's no amount that's too much, or putting in too much was a bad thing? What does AI do with that?

I might be able to help, as space is what I took up in college.

Oreo.MP4

Tamiya Italian Red, you say. I'll be looking into that great color. Cool car!

Wow. You must be awesome. You DISCOVERED that other Naptha? You're like Isaac Newton, who "discovered" gravity.

"Using a mild and quick evaporating solvent like Naphtha will not require the extra step of washing the model since it evaporates with no residue." Not entirely true. This is completetly dependent upon the quality of the naptha used. 40 years fixing jets has proven to me (and others) that many of the "lighter fluid" types do, indeed, leave a residue. In most cases (e.g., compressor bearing races, servo drives, etc.) this isn't a problem. Situations involving future paint or other coating applications can be particularly susceptible to the effects. Even M.E.K. (back when we were REAL men and could use it) had to get a wash before chem-treating turbine rotors. Of course, you'd be better served to drag your model behind a mule than to use M.E.K. on a plastic model There's a naptha called VPM (or something like that) that is the most residue-free. Whatever chemical you use, washing after is usually recommended.

I sell kits on Ebay, and know that every company or driver isn't as careful as most others. I also know that sometimes doo-doo just occurs. I would accept a return on that one if that's what the buyer wanted.

Why avoid the Tamiya tape?

Perhaps fabric (or tissue paper) hardened with white glue diluted with water would work. I did this to replace the plastic sails on a ship I'm working. Came out OK. I've seen videos where folks use this method to make tarps & stuff. You could make a form out of anything (Play-Doh?) & use waxed paper or mold release. Then some Mr Surfacer to make things smooth. Just a thought, as I will be trying this for a convertible top boot in the near future. EDIT: I know...its not tried & true.

1. I have asked via the YouTube comments section. No responses. 2. I did try Etsy and ended up with two sets of 1:1 size emblems (Anyone want some?). 3. I looked at the Tamiya kits I now have...nothing so cool. 4. I'll likely go the PE route, with some touch-ups. Thanks to all who've chimed in. This site can be a big help.

You could secure two exacto blades together and use that to cut whatever tape you want to use.

OK. I stand corrected. Clicking around through other builders like A4, Kenji's Plastic Models came up. A few more clicks and I ended up translating a site to English, and found the attached. Start at the 35 minute mark, and it's pretty clear he's custom painting and decaling PE stuff.

I don't know if you watched the video bit I mentioned, but this was not PE stuff. He installed self-adhesive, painted chrome Mustang emblems that seem to have similar relief to that of the 1:1 emblems (not the flatness of PE). I've searched through a lot of detail kits and sets. never seen anything like it in PE, though I might be wrong.

At 11:44 of the included video, this guy places a "custom metal sticker" fender emblem in his Mustang. Does anyone know where one could acquire such an item (for a Mustang or any other car)?

OK, You need to take this down right away! I went directly into flashback mode, remembering when the police used these rectangular headlighted cars. So, it had to be a cop that just pulled in behind me. Had us stashing "ginger ales" and "oregano" as quickly as we could before the christmas tree lit up, only to see that it was a stupid '77 Monte Carlo.

See? Now THAT is helpful. I didn't see an address, as I was on my phone, with old eyes. I fugured it was too good to be legit, but, if anyone had had good luck, it would have been worth a go.

"About Us" can be written by anyone, saying anything. I doubt that those intent on ripping people off would indicate that as their intent. Great advice, though.

There is a site, "hasegawamodel.com" that has many items at about 1/2 price. The header has the Hasegawa logo, with "Model Kits" right beneath. Anyone knbow if this is a scam site, or legitimate? https://www.hasegawamodel.com/

That closest brake looks like one from my daughter's car. "Daddy, my car makes a funny noise when I stop."

Where do I start? Paint variety packs? Expensive sanding sticks? Gallons of stuff to make my own thinner (just so I can use the Levelling Thinner I later bought)? Wedding ring? Three airbrushes (Barbatos has 50, so should have more than one, right)? One of the many things I DON'T regret is buying an inkjet printer from an estate sale. After paying what I paid, then waiting as long as I did for a custom decal order, this was a first-rate purchase. You can add those decals to the "didn't need" list.

My two favorite Bumpers... EDIT: "Wheel-wells"...not Bumpers. (Just got back from dentist's giggle gas chair. Shouldn't post directly thereafter.)

Bacardi Light Rum is available in blue-green hued plastic fifth bottles with plenty of flat(ish) surface. I'm working on a new form to heat some up to shape, as my first attempt went astray. The half gallon (okay...1.75L) plastic bottles have more material, but are rounder in shape and seem like they need to be flattened before final mold attempt. Other than my first mistake (too high temp cracked my form), the hardest part has been getting the label and its glue off of the plastic.