mcs1056

Apparently very true, as I couldn't see it. Looked like it was just a ruler with a pointer. I'm surprised Peteski could, because, as he wrote, he "likely has lower resolution..."

Sorry...Harbor Freight. I have a rule at work; Use an acronym or initialization without first giving the full title and you buy lunch for the meeting leader. So, I guess I owe NOBLNG some Burger King.

Though I never use HF stuff for anything that might put my life (or eye, or limb, or dog, or boat/car/motorcycle) in peril, it's great for stuff like this. $9.99 for the set at HF. It even includes a non-digital caliper, to confuse 'da youts. (I know. It's not vernier, but still...) Stopping on my way home.

I like the turqouise. I painted a body with color matching aerosol from the local auto parts store. The metal flake looks huge on the kit. Yours looks much closer to scale. Love the 60 Starliner. I had a Sunliner, but always liked that roof more than the 'vert.

Very satisfying trade will billcart recently. Would definitely do business with him again.

Awesome items (to be copied). Seeing that upturned STP can put me in flashback mode. I worked at the Shell station on 8 Mile and Schoenherr, just outside of Detroit (and I mean JUST outside). This was back in the "full service" days. We would to sell oil to folks when needed. If it was the owner, or his son, they'd check the oil and pour in a can. However, they'd always punch the spout in through the bottom. Another car would pull in. They'd "check" the oil and say it needed a quart or two. Of course, the car needed none. They'd make a show of grabbing the "new" can of oil (standing upright, of course) and punch the top of the actually empty can, then fake pouring oil in. 85 cents for "taking care of" their valued customers. In fact, I'm certain I still have one of those punching spouts in my garage.

1) Who are you...Peteski? Its an error typing. 2) As others have noted, that era Nova had structural/rust issues. It bacame rare to see one tracking straight.

Do they make one big enough for a 1:1 '65 Galaxie?

I think a Nova's real wheelbase is 111" on the left, and 114" on the right, with the differenct built in to the rear axle. That's how you get that sweet ofset (Beagle) tracking.

So the backwards countries miss out on 4:20 day???

Aaahhh...the foot savior. Not always a good thing, as you well know. I (barely) remember high school. I had an "Energy and Propulsion" class (basically auto shop, but did get to work on an old turbine engine airline air start cart). One class project was a small, handmade electric motor. John W was so proud of his windings that he tried to show me. Between the two of us, it was dropped. However, I (my feet) saved the day! I caught it between my shoes. Whether the rotor or John was more crushed by this, I can't say. Instead of John needing to start over, I gave him mine, and redid another myself. We both got "A" grades.

https://aztoyhobby.com/products/dspiae-push-broach-combination-set-for-scribing-cs-pb01?_pos=3&_sid=360943eae&_ss=r I've not ordered from them previously, but a buddy has.

"For a comparable and slightly more affordable alternative, you can look for “Hook Broaches” from DSPIAE." An entire set for the price of 1 1/2 Tamiya pieces??? Just ordered, and thanks for the pointer.

I know how to use them properly. I just seemed to have a momentary bit of trouble not dropping it. The percussive force applied upon impact with the rigid horizontal surface on which I normally propel myself in a bipedal manner overcame the structural integrity of the unit in question. Hence, a suitable replacement for this previously fine tool is being sought. Your having a set for an extended period without similar mishap is either a testament to your dexterity, or attributable to a carpeted floor? I know not which, though it could be both.

Just dropped and broke the tip off of my Tamiya "Fine Engraving Blade." Looking for a replacement, I have to ask two questions: A) Does anyone know of a source for a SET of these blades? All I can find on the Googlenet is individual blades. 2) Does anyone want an empty case for these blades? It seems that Tamiya only offers single blades, and each comes with its own ten blade case. Filling up that case would leave me with nine empty cases. Even buying the four (?) available sizes would get me three empties.

To quote Ricky Bobby, " I said, 'With all due respect'"

I'll ask this; If the relatively smart folks here couldn't tell that Ace was being sarcastic, how will AI be able to tell? One scene from Saturday Night Live I'll often refer to is their spoof of "The China Syndrome." They called it "The Pepsi Syndrome." Jack Lemon spilled his pop on the control board because he was having a heart attack, and things went haywire. His last words to his trainee were, "You can't put too much water in the reactor." He then died. The trainee then had to wonder; Did he mean there's no amount that's too much, or putting in too much was a bad thing? What does AI do with that?

I might be able to help, as space is what I took up in college.

Oreo.MP4

Tamiya Italian Red, you say. I'll be looking into that great color. Cool car!

Wow. You must be awesome. You DISCOVERED that other Naptha? You're like Isaac Newton, who "discovered" gravity.

"Using a mild and quick evaporating solvent like Naphtha will not require the extra step of washing the model since it evaporates with no residue." Not entirely true. This is completetly dependent upon the quality of the naptha used. 40 years fixing jets has proven to me (and others) that many of the "lighter fluid" types do, indeed, leave a residue. In most cases (e.g., compressor bearing races, servo drives, etc.) this isn't a problem. Situations involving future paint or other coating applications can be particularly susceptible to the effects. Even M.E.K. (back when we were REAL men and could use it) had to get a wash before chem-treating turbine rotors. Of course, you'd be better served to drag your model behind a mule than to use M.E.K. on a plastic model There's a naptha called VPM (or something like that) that is the most residue-free. Whatever chemical you use, washing after is usually recommended.

I sell kits on Ebay, and know that every company or driver isn't as careful as most others. I also know that sometimes doo-doo just occurs. I would accept a return on that one if that's what the buyer wanted.