sidcharles

does any aftermarket company make this engine? search didn't help me; thx.

just so you don't put all your chickens in one bucket: '50 Austin Coupe, Revell 85-7120 (2000) had to beat the bushes for this one: Anglia | bill-rules | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy.

bachelorette #2 worked in a hospital. monday mornings were dreaded. often there would be some 25 year old Adonis now relegated to life support or vegetative state because he thought it wouldn't happen to him. there were no words which she could speak to the family that would ease their pain.

this fellow has not put out a video in quite a while, but you may find the answer buried among these YT videos: he's got a strong personality and tends to tangent on things which are basically an excuse to grumble, but see what you can see until the real solution is given.

hmmm........ if i didn't know the version, and couldn't ...... aha ..... '50 Oldsmobile Club Coupe 2 'n 1, Revell 85-4254 (2012) i did save a square of the instructions, so i guess i have the 3 speed manual. teach a man to fish, an' all that good stuff. thx

i think they're E&J headlights: PAIR OF EDMUNDS & JONES (DETROIT, MICHIGAN) TYPE 20 TORPEDO-STYLE HEADLIGHTS sold at auction on 2nd March | Jeffrey S. Evans & Associates Edmunds & Jones headlights | The H.A.M.B. The Hot Rod Disorder™: 1920's Edmunds & Jones Weird Torpedo Headlights E&J model 20 TORPEDO headlights,original condition,1932 Ford. hot rod, rat rod for Sale - emgCarTech rereading, not sure if you meant identification or a scale source. don't know if resin guys make them. craft beads could be a possibility if it's only a pair you need.

manual or automatic? i've seen it described with both choices. thanks

simply explain: "Dumpling, i sold all of my kits. if you want me, just call Joe's Bar down the street and one of the guys might know where i've gone off to tonight."

or here: Instruction Sheets | bill-rules | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy.

perhaps not old enough, that's the type of stuff which was included with the AMT Styline kits of the early '60s. (along with a tube of rock hard putty) the interlocking rectangles may be some kind of display rack or only part of a bigger 'prize' which was spread over several must-have kits. scalemates has instruction pages available for some kits. if you could determine which those parts originated, a little detective work might get you further along. [ 1961 Ford Ranchero, AMT K-1031-139 (1960) ] if the kit doesn't have instructions, the box drawings might have mention. Bob Black has instruction pages: [ Model Kit Instructions & Box Art | DRASTIC PLASTICS MODEL CAR CLUB | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy. ] Rocket Fin is a bit 'iffy' but knowledge is where we find it: [ Scale Model Car and Truck links to manufacturers. Including Photoetch, Decals, Rims, Bodies, Parts, and Resource Links. ] maybe here [ Browse and find kit instructions : ]

i plan to separate the tie rod and cobble something or other of my own making. figured it was a good starting point & each time i do something like this i think of the original part as my fall-back/ failsafe since i'm not a really mechanical savvy modeler.

" Each kit I build is really only practice for the next one!" DG words to live by.

& for the link, too

i have not opened the package yet; tiny parts destined to lose themselves in the great abyss. this set is "I" Beam Front Axle w/ "A" type radius arms, brake backing plates, & 3-piece steering linkage. .. . [their description & wording ] Q: do we know if the brake/ backing plates are hydraulic or mechanical? i've swiped this image from Craig "Mr Metallic" Stanfield's Fotki page without permission; mea culpa. thanks sid

not definitive, but some passing thoughts on my experiences after reading the replies: the sets shown above are a single twist and can feed themselves into the material being drilled too quickly to clear the swarth. good news is that their tapered body will generally clear the chip & deburr the hole if you get it that far. since they come in such small sizes, breakage is a constant threat & frequent occurrence. i use them, but also understand why they are moderately priced and usually sold in "3 sets for $10" quantities. the Xacto drills & index is an excellent choice. again, with the smaller sizes, breakage is always in the shadow, so choke up putting the drill into the collet and don't exert radial stress when drilling. remember: one of the tenets of scale modeling is patience. become One with the drill . . . [ X-acto Drill Bit Set w/Stand (Cd) ] i have found any tool made by Tamiya to be a marked improvement to whatever i had been using prior. for 40 years i have used a 6" hardware store mill file to straighten edges on styrene or fair an outside curve. recently i had amazon points so squandered them on a $30+ Tamiya flat plastics file #74058 [ Amazon.com: Tamiya 74058 Craft Tools - Plastic Modeling File (Flat 16mm Width) : Arts, Crafts & Sewing ] difference using & results is exponentially better than previous smoothing tools. also, an investment of tiny reamers years ago has proven a good decision. if you don't have the exact size drill bit for the job at hand, a reamer can save running to the LHS on a rainy afternoon. even if you do have the drill, go 1 or 2 sizes smaller, and ream the hole to a snug fit. i got mine from Micro-Mark. not a big user of their products [ i have issues how they "obtain" some of their branded tools' designs] but here's the link: Micro-Size Precision Reamers (Set of 6) – Micro-Mark i think i paid 50% of current price, but it was 20+ years ago, so i guess everything is relevant. they are only used for styrene and if they have dulled, it's not something of which i am cognizant. YMMV an index can also be a valuable addition to kit if you use a variety of wire sizes for detailing: [ Amazon.com: BIG HORN Horn 19878 61-80 Drill Gauge : Tools & Home Improvement ] sid

buy a couple of 3 cornered scrapers and a set of files; you going to need them!

the squares made me dizzier.

the music behind the music: you will recognize many names.

DEPRON = not paper covered foamboard unless i am completely misunderstanding the sources i have researched. (like xerox & photo copy or kleenex & facial tissue or apples & peaches) when, if, i get a few pieces to experiment with, i think it's simply another arrow in the quiver. i believe it gets a hardening coat prior to prime & paint. gonna find out at some point. i've not wanted to join a RC airplane forum to ask, but it's a possibility if either here or Britmodeler fails me.

any chance i could buy a vowel? is it the stuff sold for packing dishes? or is it mush cosplay foam. i don't know what i don't know.

i'd like to try working with it, but don't want to buy mega size or quantity sheets. anyone have a source? thanks

thanks. it's behind a '34 ford and who knows what's under the stuff on the bench, but i'll hold you to it. thanks sid

i've only gotten to page 8, so maybe it's explained further along. Q: on the battery there are posts for cables, vent caps to check ,well, battery stuff, and two squares w/ two bumps each. what are they for? thanks

thanks. i'm tasked with building a ute out of a Heller Renault 4cv. i will most likely drill a hole at the ends of my cut slots to act as a stress relief from the bent roof tabs. they'll get filled with plastruct or stretched sprue, and a dab o' putty. i've got quite a bit figured out except how to join the rear part of the roof to the front without making it look like a pinched fedora. i also don't want to have 1/4" thick goober of putty to make the turn down to the rear window. i think i can carve the pieces i need from pink xps foam, harden it with super-glue, and use that as a buck for a vacuum form piece. we'll see.