sidcharles

Ron Coon Resins | Home - Circle Track Resins & Supplies

i think if you leave the bought model as is, when you start your own building, a lot of questions will answer themselves. you can start with a hobby knife, sprue cutter, and flat file. buy $5.00 ones or $50.00 ones; whatever you decide. you will know when you have outgrown the tool. there's a gazillion good YouTube modelers. watch a few and see where your interest is piqued. focus on the basic stuff for the first couple. Showtime Studios/ Hunter Selby did an excruciatingly long series about 8 years ago building a single model in 60+ episodes. pick your pain threshold. if you don't like to do something one way, do it another. it really is supposed to be fun. use a photographs to show you how the model looks. we are regularly tricked into not seeing mold lines and other imperfections because in the building process we stare at them so long they cease to look out of place. try the first couple following the manufacturer's instruction sheet & no paint. just keep progress moving. like playing the clarinet; if you don't practice, you'll never be another Sam Butera. like any endeavor in life, there's no shortage of free advice and the guys who'll tell you "i would have done it ....." all you can do is smile. keep your first model no matter how they turn out. #1. they can be used as paint mules when you start to add color to your masterpieces. #2. after a few models built, you will be able to track your progress.

Shop / Tamiya USA

i think this must be a "first" even for the hardcore truckster builders.

very cool. new dealers' promos? i see them as collectibles for the future.

https://youtu.be/Ro_znE_Wlgc?si=SvlwT8Ll-4u28JM-

you might have more responses if you showed a picture of what you need. i don't know, or am willing, to do two research projects, but perhaps this company might have it: Dragline Detail Parts - The Model Car Garage

https://youtu.be/Wn7Q4qnU6xk?si=qhiQPK0WIDKoiJ-u

anyone discard molded styrene seat and a. make cushions out of miliput or similar 2 part putty? or b. carve from pink xps or similar foam? seems like either would eliminate adding unnecessary thickness and/ or joints details at the edges.

the RC airplane guys have been using it for eons: Special adhesives for foam & plastic – deluxematerials.com i have used Deluxe Foam Sealer for model railroad terrain made from pink xps foam. worked fine, but i don't think for model railroad of cars [non-impact models] it's any more beneficial than Liquitex mediums. this is a whole line of stuff to stoke the imagination: Golden makes a similar line: https://youtu.be/tlHrrtMhwCI?si=Ag_Ue4LAI1bjPM2b

for the first 10 years or so that i saw weathering effects on model cars i thought "they must have been applied to cover up mistakes." as i began to be more interested in a real appearing vehicle [vs. 'show car'] i started to look at military modelers' work. that's when i began to understand how effects of weather & use should be used in a rationalized manner. as an aside in the "same thing but different" category, i remember at the tender age of seven my older cousin explaining to me "you don't need to use every decal on the sheet." i was devastated . . . and to this day . . . . . .

one of the benders* i purchased came with a couple of 1/8" thick smoked acrylic pieces about 4" square. although not hopeful they will improve my life, i must find them and try some day. *i know "real" modelers use a single edge razor blade & steel rule. sometimes you have to support the cottage industry, too. https://youtu.be/-ZU_vNRJyyM?si=-u_vM8mN39KSgiWx

crosley basketweave https://youtu.be/QCTNbcSQZUY?si=mIBkbldSQBiXzc-3

mini-wicker @ 1:03

i have snippers dedicated for p.e. [9180ET] Photo Etch Tools for Modelers - The Xuron® Tool Blog for the bigly cutting. to get rid of the nubs, Opti-visor magnifier, deep breath, and good light, coupled with the above mentioned Xacto #10 blade X-Acto #10 General Purpose Blade, 5/Pack (X210) - One Shot Supplies, Inc. - Where Hawaii Gets Its Color cut on a piece of glass. any hard surface [tile, et cetera] will do, but a cutting mat deflects enough to distort the piece you are cutting. sometimes no problem, sometimes it can be an added step to correct. any irregular edge can be smoothed with a foam sanding stick [240 grit or finer is good for me] stedi Sanding Sticks, Model Hobby Making Tools, Polishing Sanding Sticks Tools for Gundam Repairing Plastic Model and Miniature Model 6PCS(#400+#600+#800+#1000+#1200+#1500): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific before doing any cutting, i rub down the p.e. with a piece of foam abrasive [320 grit or finer] Amazon.com: KACNON 20Pcs 180-3000 Grit Sanding Sponge Set (180/320/400/600/800/1000/1200/1500/2000/2500/3000) - Ultra Fine Sanding Sponges Pads with Brush - Soft Foam Sanding Block Dry Wet Sandpaper Assortment : Industrial & Scientific amazing how it removes the sharp edges of the individual pieces, which in turn, allows the p.e. to hold paint more better.

Q: do you use a spray fixative to hold/ protect the dry colors? thx sid

yet you neglected to mention that in your initial inquiry. "I was wondering what was the best way to do tuck and roll. I've heard evergreen half round works well but what size do I need for the smaller pleats they would use on seats? 1 mm, 2mm, I have no clue? Any advice you may have would be helpful and appreciated." i'll endeavor to read between the lines before i off any other suggestions. although it may spark an idea for someone else reading the thread; who knows?

not really applicable here, but i am so i'll make the best of it..... every JC Whitney ad i have ever seen had a paint pin stripe tool for $2.98. it was a glass vial mounted with a wheel & guide on the business end. to read the advertisement, you could practically quit your day job and become Steve the Striper with this meager investment. "... make plenty of money, impress your friends, get girls . . . . "

i remember Auto World selling "pinstripe tape"

if you search on YouTube videos, there's a bunch of modelers who use cosplay 2mm foam sheeting and scribe the tuck 'n' rolls in. it looks 'okay' @ 40 mph, but close ups leave a bit to be desired. at the least, i would want to use something as a hardener and then paint it. if i used it. which i probably never will. but it doesn't mean there aren't those who do. "eye of the beholder" and all that, old chap.

nice tie-in with the headlight supports. makes them look like they belong to the same car.

i've not had problems in over 25 years. look for seller satisfaction and if it's less than 90%, don't buy. more BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH comes along every day. if you have the luxury (desire/ time) make an offer. if it's accepted, good. if not, you need to decide what its value is to you. ebay uses credit cards, so check with your cc company and ask them what their "insurance" policy is regarding purchases. i've had good luck with Bank of America Visa, but maybe all cc companies have to abide by the same rules. final advice? caveat emptor!

wonder how many sponsors ol' Buck went through before he found two with proper color logos. the "go fast" number font sets the pace.

this fellow has a 3 part series on undercarriage treatments. unfortunately, he threw in the towel on making videos.

i've seen that truck before. it was in the parking lot of the Old Home FIll'er Up & Keep on Truckin' Cafe.