sidcharles

2" square of wax paper

have you seen this: forty pages just for yute: Customs - Cars made into Pick-ups | Page 40 | The H.A.M.B.

if you have not opened a case with your credit card company by now, shame on You. stop pussy-footing around. oh; i don't want to hurt his feelings and really want him to like me . . . . get real. it's the nineties, y'know. grow a pair like two apples in a tube sock. we're not going to listen to this all winter.

i'm just going to use whatever i have on hand for this model. i probably have a sports car tire & wheel i can by with. i do believe RMCM has a set but that will have to wait for my spring '26 order. thanks

AMT '2 five T

this just posted x ITG; had to put it somewhere

so i've slotted the rear floorpan so a model A rear cross member will center on the suspension holes [thanks DJ Mar] and fit between the rails. now i have to do the suggested mock up so when i glue the cross member it will allow the frame to side level with the front axle. this might be why i took up model railroadin'

using a conventional banjo rear axle for the chassis of the '96 released Revell 1932 Ford w coupe. i have a crossmember, axle, and related parts, so that's the easy task done. Q: to locate the axle [front to back] is it as simple as using the highest arch in the frame as the axle centerline? there is a row of holes for some kind of Revellian spring/ bars rear end. could they be used as a centerline reference? it's heading toward the jalopy hall of fame, so i don't need restoration precision, but i would like the center of the wheel to be close the center of the wheel well arch for a fairly believable appearance. thanx

and 4 self tapping screws to hold the whole thing together

the only thing Mr Smith did differently was to fold grit against grit for the initial folds so the grit broke clean. now repeat that 100 times, and then you can be excused for the day.

on my "watch" list. tick tock tick tock tick tock Q: is Rick-rolling still a thing? i never figured how to do that . . . .

watch a YT video of someone trying to get off the boat ramp with a set-up like this

the distributors are available from any number of sources [link below]. the "... larger spark plug wires." are not desirable. anything larger than .020" are out of scale. remember: wire gauge size is the wire; not the diameter of the wire with insulation. measure your intended product with either a drill gauge plate or a dial caliper [digital if you must!] Amazon.com: 1/24-1/25 Black Prewired Distributor w/Aluminum Plug Boot Material : Arts, Crafts & Sewing (acceptable) Pre-Wired Distributors - The Model Car Garage (top dog) and everything in between

nice to see a project with believable patina. you must have been military modeler in a previous life.

& tail lights. those bad boys got some stopping power, for sure

i'm not sure if what i call them are what you do, so as silly if it sounds, a picture might help your cause. i am certain my interpretation is sold by at least two resin 3D guys, but am reluctant to invest the time looking through all of my links if i don't have something to compare. in any event, to get the size you want, could a 3D be incrementally enlarge,d or are they only adjusted in BIG steps?

Mr Smith, mechanical drawing teacher, ran ours in 8th grade. i still fold my sandpaper the way he taught.

not sure of your turning radius, mind your Ackermann - but overall it came out quite nice.

very much like the "All You Can Eat" buffet. just because you can, doesn't mean you should.

i like the added bonus that some trees which were originally gaudy [= chromed] are now, not.

but back to the original question is there? $36 buck for a kit which has no interest but the (2) cans isn't a great deal to me.

i found it interesting that a lot of the old Revell & AMT parts packs are so sought that 50 or 60 years later they are still being produced.