sidcharles

among everything else, the color palette kept to a minimum adds to the presentation.

i made the mistake once of ordering boxes from the postal service. [ Free Shipping Supplies | USPS.com ] i ordered 3 boxes. what i did not realize it was 3 packages of 10 boxes. i ended up restocking the display at the local post office. the mail lady chuckled

anybody consider UV Resin for something like this? seems more people are using it for adhesive. is it any better, or just the new kid onna block? thx

i echo everyone's accolades. Q: on top of the blower [two squares] is that a pair of injectors? i remember something similar from the Revell Tony Nancy dragster kit (i think...) but didn't know what they were then, either. thanks

i remember when the first edition of Car Model magazine circa 1962 pocket book size*, was treading on that same line. or was it Model Railroader , or Popular Mechanics ? oh well, we all seem to survive despite ourselves. * Car Model (Home)

for something as small & shallow as the example you posted, i think the main caution is the thickness (thinness really) of the repair. Mark's advice to make the depression deeper and a bit irregular is a good call. not probably the answer you wanted, and your first inclination might be spot on since the depression is so thin and relatively small in area. it's a bit of a dance to have it thick enough the patching material won't crack or crumble, and thin enough you don't spend your summer vacation adding layers upon layers to build the patch up to the surrounding surface (or a little higher and then file/ sand down to blend). another good materials (2) for thin imperfections is #a. Mr Surfacer What is Mr Surfacer? - Modelling Tips - Britmodeller.com and Bob Smith Industries IC 2000 Premium Adhesive for Hobby, Hardware and Recreation both of these take a while to cure, but they are "hot" meaning they will soften the material to which they are applied. figure on overnight drying time. both will sand when fully cured. Milliput - The epoxy putty with a thousand uses in modelling, DIY and industry Green Stuff - Original Kneadatite Putty - GSW The 5 Best Epoxy Modeling Putties For Wargamers - Terrain Wizard

are the holes/ depressions deep enough for a piece of styrene to be glued? i think the least amount of filler you use, the less chance of the fill telegraphing through your finished paint job. is the shape a hole? stretched tree sprue could work with perhaps no filler.

that's some Norman Rockwell posing, it is.

quite tasteful. Q: whodonnawin'shiel?

quarter milers aren't my thing. 'roundy round; yes.

great idea. which ones do You suggest?

that's pretty sleek. all shwoopy 'n' chit. i certainly want to use the body for something. i'd like the grille (and fenders) for the Fiat, but have no idea if it will work. i could use the remainder of the body (meaning roof, trunk, & greenhouse) for any number of concoctions. i have 2 or 3 AMT '29 Ford body & fenders which come to mind, but it's not even simmering at this point. winter project perhaps. if i can locale a NIB Monogram or Revell '36 Ford (AHEM!!!) i would build the first one really close to factory stock. the tail lights are so much a favorite i would even consider lighting them w/ LEDs & a coin cell battery. btw: anyone remember the AMT '64 Ford Galaxy with the light bar for the headlights and battery box? ahhh the good old days & ways . . .

ditto. since Revell's parts pack came out in 1845, or thereabouts it seems, i have wanted to build a street version. a while back i attempted to justify S&H on a small order of paints (let those among us who have never, cast the first sprue!) so i grabbed a Tamiya 1935 Toyoda (sic). it really is a beautiful kit with expected quality and more than a nod to the Chrysler Airflow of the era. but going back & forth on what to do i decided to try the fenders of the Toyoda on the Fiat body in the Yellow Fever kit. we'll see how it goes.

i just ordered one from Amazon (25$ - free with my accumulated points) in making my decision what to get, one of the blurbs i read x Atlantis indicated just that.

while you're credit card is out . . . . this is a bit extreme, but it doesn't hurt to see how other folks do things.

anyone suggest a source to determine the chronology of stock car evolution? i think part of what is confusing me is class distinction. specific example would be a street ready appearing car with an X taped over the headlights compared to the same car with fender cut outs & pony wheel left front to another with roll bars, nerf bars, and side bars. i've seen the same model 1:1 in all three liveries, so there's definitely something i'm missing. nothing on HAMB or Ford Barn jumped out at me. years & years ago there was a stock car forum but it petered out . . . thanks s.e.

so after tracing the trim on to the plastic "glass", you would shave/ file the exterior surface [presentation side] around the perimeter thinner to get it to extend outward? from what i see, it's the older, especially AMT, kits which have the deepest & most obvious setback. thanks s.e.

the foible of clicking the "unread content" option is that there are things never before heard. i still gotta study up what Pro-Touring is, but in the interim .... how do you get your windshield glass to sit so tight to its frame? are certain kits manufactured like this and i just have not come across them? or do you cut a rabbet in the interior side of the windshield glass area to allow the glass to nestle into it? thanks sid

Ron Coon Resins | Home - Circle Track Resins & Supplies

i think if you leave the bought model as is, when you start your own building, a lot of questions will answer themselves. you can start with a hobby knife, sprue cutter, and flat file. buy $5.00 ones or $50.00 ones; whatever you decide. you will know when you have outgrown the tool. there's a gazillion good YouTube modelers. watch a few and see where your interest is piqued. focus on the basic stuff for the first couple. Showtime Studios/ Hunter Selby did an excruciatingly long series about 8 years ago building a single model in 60+ episodes. pick your pain threshold. if you don't like to do something one way, do it another. it really is supposed to be fun. use a photographs to show you how the model looks. we are regularly tricked into not seeing mold lines and other imperfections because in the building process we stare at them so long they cease to look out of place. try the first couple following the manufacturer's instruction sheet & no paint. just keep progress moving. like playing the clarinet; if you don't practice, you'll never be another Sam Butera. like any endeavor in life, there's no shortage of free advice and the guys who'll tell you "i would have done it ....." all you can do is smile. keep your first model no matter how they turn out. #1. they can be used as paint mules when you start to add color to your masterpieces. #2. after a few models built, you will be able to track your progress.

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i think this must be a "first" even for the hardcore truckster builders.

very cool. new dealers' promos? i see them as collectibles for the future.

https://youtu.be/Ro_znE_Wlgc?si=SvlwT8Ll-4u28JM-

you might have more responses if you showed a picture of what you need. i don't know, or am willing, to do two research projects, but perhaps this company might have it: Dragline Detail Parts - The Model Car Garage