sidcharles

ever see Hunter Selby? he's not making videos too frequently lately, he can be a little intense, but you might enjoy his take on life & models:

oh, brother. not another old crotchety . . . . oops! somehow my autobiographic profile got mixed up in this thread. well, just try to do the best you can. that's really what all of us are doing.

i know it isn't an answer to you question, but a suggestion is to build a couple of AMT Trophy kit reissues as confidence enhancers, and then jump into MPC world.

my nose is running and my eyes watering just looking at the resin work. i'll just sit back away from the monitor as i follow along. [really like the carburetor finish, too]

hah! a mere pittance.

didn't Juha Airio do some masters for RMCM?

every couple of years i buy a box of wrapped single edge razor blades. Amazon.com: WEGAZ-100PCS Single Edge Razor Blades,Industrial Safety Razor Blades,Individually Packed, Used for Scrapers and Cutting Tools : Tools & Home Improvement they can take the brunt of the work off hobby knives & blades and remind me where i came from. i also use snap blade knives because i have a half dozen and about 10x that many blades [each with about 10 snaps so there's always a good point available] OLFA 9mm Stainless-Steel Utility Knife (SVR-2) - Multi-Purpose Retractable Precision Knife w/Stainless-Steel Snap-Off Blade, Replacement Blades: Any OLFA 9mm Blade - Utility Knives - Amazon.com with the cost of a model/ parts/ paint/ tools/ sundries = kissing the $200 mark, i don't think the place to cut chaff is with a $4 or $6 knife handle which can be used almost indefinitely - but that's just me.

wait until you price the "detail-up" kit & aftermarket wheels 'n' tires.

interesting _ - === marks on the 87. runs in reverse?

i remember a Revell Buick from that time which had separate body panels too i think it was a small scale, though

the might work with some ACC; thanks

Charlie Yapp called; looking for his coupe

just like ball bearings but unlike beads - no holes - wanted. anyone have a source? i want to have round ends on a tubular member [repetitively & consistent] incremental sizes from 1/16" to 3/8" in an ideal situation. thx

n'yuk n'yuk; you guys . . . . but - i dug through the parts box [aka well of lost souls] and the physically largest bajo rear end i have is the Revell '37 Ford pickup butt. but as keen observers will no doubt point out, that unit has the spring mounted behind the axle . . . . . grrr so the easiest way i saw out of the problem was to snip the spring off and fabricate the buggy sit on top of the axle spring with some evergreen. which i did. and now need to mount it all together. since the center spring pack arch is both high & hidden under the frame crossmember (i think it's from an AMT '29 Ford frame from years ago) i can shim or trim it to suit the front end. which is the next hurdle. "... no rails ..." "... right track . . . " oh man; what have i gotten into???

2" square of wax paper

have you seen this: forty pages just for yute: Customs - Cars made into Pick-ups | Page 40 | The H.A.M.B.

if you have not opened a case with your credit card company by now, shame on You. stop pussy-footing around. oh; i don't want to hurt his feelings and really want him to like me . . . . get real. it's the nineties, y'know. grow a pair like two apples in a tube sock. we're not going to listen to this all winter.

i'm just going to use whatever i have on hand for this model. i probably have a sports car tire & wheel i can by with. i do believe RMCM has a set but that will have to wait for my spring '26 order. thanks

AMT '2 five T

this just posted x ITG; had to put it somewhere

so i've slotted the rear floorpan so a model A rear cross member will center on the suspension holes [thanks DJ Mar] and fit between the rails. now i have to do the suggested mock up so when i glue the cross member it will allow the frame to side level with the front axle. this might be why i took up model railroadin'

using a conventional banjo rear axle for the chassis of the '96 released Revell 1932 Ford w coupe. i have a crossmember, axle, and related parts, so that's the easy task done. Q: to locate the axle [front to back] is it as simple as using the highest arch in the frame as the axle centerline? there is a row of holes for some kind of Revellian spring/ bars rear end. could they be used as a centerline reference? it's heading toward the jalopy hall of fame, so i don't need restoration precision, but i would like the center of the wheel to be close the center of the wheel well arch for a fairly believable appearance. thanx

and 4 self tapping screws to hold the whole thing together

the only thing Mr Smith did differently was to fold grit against grit for the initial folds so the grit broke clean. now repeat that 100 times, and then you can be excused for the day.