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noname

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Everything posted by noname

  1. Thanks guys, this is good to know. Hard to believe the C series ran well into the 1980's. They look so 60's /early70's to me. I dig their mean all business look. Really leaves a lot of room for placement in dioramas as well as possible variations in paint, weathering and graphics.
  2. I'm wondering if anybody knows what year the Amt Autocar (dump truck and tractor) as well as the Amt Ford C600/C900 kits represent? I'm not familiar with these big trucks but would like to build one. Also, were these trucks used extensively in USA and Canada? I'm a late 1970 model so I don't remember these trucks much.?
  3. This is fun to watch. Love the reality you are building into this miniature car. Inspiring!
  4. I have a package of the Amt Tall and Wide" (11.75-16) drag slicks. Checked all the rims in my parts box and am having trouble finding wheels to fit the tires. Does anybody know of an after market place (or other location) that would have proper period correct rims and backings to fit these tires? The tires are quite soft so most rims without a good lip pushes right through them I find. Thanks✌️
  5. Ya I noticed the 63 had black letters. I'm thinking there could have been a black lettered version of the 62 but not sure. All I see is the blue lettering in colour photos.
  6. I have one of the older (1993) Amt 62 Impala Dave Strickler's "Old Reliable II" kits. The kit decals are in black. The issue is all the colour photos I am finding show blue lettering. Does anybody know if there was a point in 1962 that this car actually had the black lettering? Hard to tell from black and white photos. There is one old washy colour photo where the letters could be black but the number on the car is 201 instead of the 602 that comes with the kit.
  7. Thanks for the comments. I think I'll send them a note as Bill suggested. Thanks for supplying the link Bill.
  8. Man! I've been waiting for a dual wheel truck kit for a while now. Finally one comes out, beautifully detailed, and to hear of all these issues. Yikes! My question is does anyone know if they have fixed the issues at this point? I mean, if I were to order one for Christmas would I get the "new and improved" or the same kit you folks are disappointed with? Also, I have two other Moebius truck kits I have not built yet. Has anyone found issues with the other Ford trucks? I have to say I feel bad for Moebius. I gather they are a smallish company and between this and the complained about Chevy II issues in another thread, they must be feeling a little hurt at this point. It's really too bad. It seems their kits are detailed beyond your regular AMT, Revell etc kits. I guess we all learn from our mistakes. It's not like they asked for this trouble. But then we spend hard earned money for these kits ( never getting any cheaper) and can't build what's inside. A total bummer for the consumer and the company. I would gladly buy the truck without the ramp back for a lower price. Just saying.?
  9. I have been looking at several model companies to see if anyone is currently putting out an older dual wheeled truck. I haven't found anything except AMT's Stake truck. I didn't want anything like a dump truck but rather a 1 ton - 3 ton truck from between the 1930's to 1970's. The stake truck might work but I didn't want a cab over. Although I suppose I could change that with different truck cab? Any thoughts? thanks?
  10. Thanks guys. I have the fire and rescue Amt Chevy van kit that has the same, as the above, Godzilla Jeep kit. They are quite a bit bigger then the regular tires on the van kit. I think this would jack the van up considerably so would likely be radical on a car model. I was hoping for an aftermarket source. I did look on the Fireball Modelworks site but didn't see any. Maybe I'll have another look. There is no search bar so I find you have to just weed through all the products.
  11. I have been trying to find an aftermarket source for regular old school looking snow tires for 1/25 scale models. I've found a couple sources for truck size snow tires but not smaller sizes that would be used for a car. Anybody know of any? I'm afraid the taller truck sized snow tires may make the car jacked up too high in the back. Might work for a 1/24 scale car? But I'm assuming to big for a car. Thanks
  12. Thanks guys for your response. Curt's wheels look great. Flat spokes (PE) are not super realistic. The kit wheels are not even a possibility to me. I've thought about using guitar strings before.
  13. Has anybody ever started making aftermarket PE wire wheels for dragsters yet? I've been out of the loop for a while. Thanks
  14. Thanks for that Muncie. I'll have a look at these.
  15. Thanks for the comments guys. I had built a couple of AWB cars before. But they were earlier Dodges (one not finished) and of course the Chevy II that was an AWB kit (Rat Packer I think?). But something told me in 1966 things were more complicated than just hacking up a stock chassis as the above comments demonstrate. I was thinking of something like Don Gay's 66 GTO. Which I don't think is a flip top. Something more like the above Doug Thorley Chevy II is what I pictured. Does anybody know what would be a typical frame for one of these? Anybody know of a similar build thread? Any help would be appreciated. I've never built a whole chassis from scratch before. I suppose I should go off of the stock chassis? I already used the stock floor pan and built a front and rear frame but it doesn't look right. I think I need to start over from scratch with a square tube and "aluminum" floor pan etc.
  16. Hey everyone. I had started an altered wheel base 66 GTO a while ago and just recently broke the box out again. I'm not sure how the chassis would typically be built for this. I didn't want to make a flip up body or anything like that. I like the thoughts of a mostly steel body. I was wondering if the whole frame would have been rebuilt with square tube and a new floor constructed or if they would have maybe rebuilt the front and back end working around the factory chassis/ floor pan? Thanks
  17. I've watched Rik build these highly detailed models for years now. I'm really glad to watch him do an old school drag car. I hope the Tudor above is his next project. Altered cars are so much fun.
  18. I hope this works. I haven't posted anything for ages. Truck Tractor/Yard Mule Armoured Car
  19. This is looking very good. I am a sucker for steelies myself.
  20. Thanks guys. It sounds like somebody may could sell a few handfuls of these if they made them. I have thought about replacing the kit spokes with fine guitar wire. Maybe I should try that.
  21. Thanks for your input guys. I see what you mean, I should refer to it as a box trailer. I made a mistake. It was this Peterbilt that we got him. And this is the trailer I was talking about. It sounds far from perfect but may do the job.
  22. Hey guys. I was wondering who is making a good set of aftermarket 1/25 wire wheels for the front of a dragster? Thanks in advance.
  23. Hey guys. Last year we got my grown up step son a Revel 1/25 Freightliner truck for Christmas. To our surprise he actually built it. So this year he wants a container trailer to go with it. I see Moebius has a very nice 53' trailer. But it is also very expensive. I see AMT makes one but the reviews do not sound great. Do-able but not great. Can anyone suggest other possible options? Thanks in advance for your help.
  24. Oh ya, I should have mentioned. I only use lacquer rattle cans. Tamiya and Duplicolor work well. I don't have a lot of luck with enamel. I find lacquer paint dries quickly so is better suited to the outdoor scenario we are talking about.
  25. Where I live here in Canada we usually get the odd warmer day. You can hold off until such a day occurs. Another idea that may help is to shoot paint one layer at a time which I believe is a good idea anyway. After a good primer coat do a thin layer barely covering the body. Bring it inside and let it dry. If it needs a sanding do so, wash and repeat. If you do it in 3-4 goes you can catch mistakes before the final coat. If you have enough paint on after your final coat and still have a blemish, you'll have a good enough coat to do a light sanding without cutting down to the plastic.
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