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Thanks guys for the comments. Thanks 6bblbird for your knowledge I know was gained form years of experience being around a drag track. I think I'll go with what I have, call it a mid 60s gasser that may have been lucky enough to squeeze the frame through an AHRA event (or something like that). I kind of made a goof with that frame. I do make Altered builds sometimes so maybe I got confused. I suppose this car could be thrown into an Altered class at an NHRA event, where it probably would not be very competitive. But then again with it's weight it would have been in a lower class anyway. I know sometimes they did not change rules until a trend starts. Maybe this guy is the reason they came up with that rule.

This looks great. Nice combination.

Nice clean build. Are those rims from one of the Revell Willys Gassers kits?

This is a beautiful build as it goes for scale Gassers. You really have mastered the chrome Alclad. Boys I love those front rims. Where did you get the engine?

This looks cool. I like the rawness of it.

Yes the price of a new Sherline is definitely out of my league right now. But I will keep an eye out for a second hand. Thanks for all the suggestions and tips guys. I appreciate your time.

Thanks Ace. I'll ditch the fan idea. I don't like cars with the nose sky high. I like them up but not unrealistically high. I was planning on using pie crusts but if I am not mistaken they could still be purchased well after 1964 when I believe wrinkle wall slicks were first used.

Thanks guys. Iborg, maybe I'll call this a 66 period Gasser. I don't want to mess with the frame at this point. I think the 409 is fine. I've seen them used in everything including Gassers. Maybe I'll leave the fan off but add an alternator for good measure. I will probably leave the inner fenders as they are part of the body. Now that I think of it I probably should have worked with the stock frame. But these square tube frames are clean and fairly easy to make. MPi, I used the seat belt material and PE from Detail Master. It got worn along the edges from building them but I kind of like it. Looks like it is really worn from use. Hedotwo, if you are interested in Gassers, I suggest, "Gasser Wars" by Larry Davis. And his book on Super Stock is also very good. But there are always questions not answered in the books. However they cover almost everything. Thanks Modelfink. The front axles and springs really aren't that hard to make. This drop axle was taken from a 32 Ford kit and I made the springs. Sometimes I do straight axles completely from scratch. They are simple and fun to do.

Hey guys. I started this a while ago and picked it up again recently. I have a couple of questions for those who may know this stuff. First let me start off with the engine. I am using a 409 with a blower. You can see my scratch built magneto/fuel pump combo on the side. There is also an alternator there as well. I wanted this car to be possibly street driven. That is why the alternator is there. I was wondering if anybody has used (thinking 1964-65) a fan with a blower? It would have to stick out to clear the blower belt. Next is the body and chassis. I trimmed all the molding off of the sides of the car for a nice clean look. Of course the rear wheel opening was radiused. Then I have the scratch built front axle and traction bars from the AWB Chevy II kit (I think). So my next question is would this square tube frame be allowed in Gasser class in the mid 60's? Also, would they be allowed to run a car without any inner wheel wells? I do know that the inner fenders were allowed to be trimmed to clear headers. And I have seen in "Gasser Wars" what looks like flip front end without wheel wells. And lastly is a picture of the interior which I believe to be pretty much complete. Thanks for looking.

Thanks Pete. Sounds like you know your stuff. I tried this a while ago with another cheaper drill and the cylindrical object I was trying to make never came out round. It was always off. So I have this drill and it seemed like it might have worked a little better but still did not seem quite true. The tolerance you mentioned is surely an issue I'm sure. I had wondered if a better quality drill might fix this.

LOL. Thanks for your experiences guys. Yes I did fill out the order form on the website. I'm hoping my parts just show up so I can call this a good experience. Sorry for those of you who have not found joy. For the price a guy pays for kits these days, we don't want any flawed parts we can't use.

Good to know, thanks for that guys. Maybe they will just turn up in my post office box.

Around 2 weeks ago I sent a message to Revell requesting parts replacement. I bought the newer Dart 2 in 1 kit and the slicks were pretty blemished. It was like they were taken out of the mold before cooling and set on something while still soft. The Cragar rims were also blemished on the outer part of the rim. I am wondering if it takes a while to hear back from Revell or do they just send the parts without a response? Thanks

Thanks guys. I ALWAYS use goggles. So, I'm getting the idea that the proper tools are tools made specifically for metal lathe work.

Thanks BigTallDad, that is what I was thinking. May do the trick for the time being. As long as the chuck it rotating straight and not loose. Thanks Pete. I don't know if I can afford to get into a lathe at the moment but I do appreciate the recommendation. I will look into the Sherline for sure. It is good to know tested and true companies before a purchase.

Thanks guys,. As usual, you get what you pay for then. Thanks for the heads up. I'll look up Sherline. I just don't have a lot of money to spend on a lathe is all.

Thanks for your replies guys. I don't feel the drill is a big safety concern. It's not turning at what I would call a super high RPM range. The chuck holds the aluminum and styrene fine I believe. But you are correct. There is nothing to hold my tool. I was trying to see if it would work. If so, a stand could be made. But yes, of course a lathe would be ideal. Having a quick look on Ebay I saw these two fairly inexpensive lathes. Do you think these would be any good?

Great job. You are really working those colouring pencils.

Randy, you are doing some really nice fine detailed work. Keep up the good work.

Great job Randy. Mirror Models have some really nice kits.

You are doing a great job on this. You obviously got the hang of the Alclad chrome.

I actually don't have a lathe but I put my drill in a vise and was playing around with some styrene and aluminum rod. I find the aluminum a bit hard to work with. I just used an old chisel and a file to try it out. Any suggestions? Thanks,..

Man, this guy should be super appreciative upon getting this detailed replica of his car. Great work!

Thanks guys. I think you are right in that buying a cheaper 1/24 kit is the way to go. After a few kits I should have a collection of parts. Especially if you can get a 1/24 - 2 in 1 kit. Shipping with Ebay purchases can be costly but maybe worth if you get a really cheap kit.

Thanks guys. I was actually looking for 50s-60s style American style V8 car parts. But If I do a tuner or need a modern V8 I definitely know where to go.