Rider

I can't say enough about how much I enjoy the knowledge base on this site. I'm new to casting, so far I'm only working on masters and piecing together tools such as a vacuum chamber, vacuum pump and pressure pot and doing research. I've been going throught the Smooth-On Cats (for about 9 months) and trying to figure out what to go with for both mold making and resin. So I started with this forum and came upon this thread. I don't want to re-ask what been asked, but I'd like if possible some more insight on your choices to go with these products. Can I ask why was Mold Max 30 your choice and not one of the others in this line? Same question why not Task 2 or 3 or even 6 or even Task 4 which is claimed to be good for "thin" castings? They all have a longer pot life then Task 5. As a newbie I have many questions and concerns and want to limit my waste as much as possible. My goal is to do an entire kit in resin, saving my collectable kits while still being able to build them only out of resin. Sorry if I'm being anal, just trying to cover all my basis. Thanks for any advice. LJ

That body does look crisp. As I read your review I woundered what types of issues you have had with past bodies. I'm in the process of making a couple masters one being a chopped '40 for devilery van and the other a correct '73 Mustang Fastback for the Blue Max. Both the AMT and Revell kits are so wrong in so many ways. I'll be casting this for myself but would like to hear of the issues you have encountered with Resin bodies. Thanks LJ

As was said, Easy Off oven cleaner works best for me, Castrol Super Clean aslo works well. The oven cleaner comes in a pump bottle which avoids the fumes of the spray can.

One of the quietest comps on the market is an IAWATA. They're not cheap but will last you a life time, they're whisper quiet. There is also a knock off on the market that will most likly be just as or close to how quiet the IAWATA is but more then likely won't last as long.

Yeah that's what prompted me to search for him on-line, with very little info, there wasn't much current info on him. I'll definatly be contacting him directly knowing he's still around.

Thanks, that's good news he's still around.

Anyone have any info? I've bought some of his products through Stradasports such as the 330 P4 engine kit. An awesome kit BTW, super detailed and very acurate, this engine rear suspension kit alone has 78 peices. Any info is appreciated. Thanks

This looks to be very cool. I'll watch this for sure.

Hah that's cool I like the skull. Right on./

Great work, I'm working on the very same kit. I built this back when it first came out in '79-'80, great kit, molded in yellow/black fit was real nice. It's nice to see these kit come back, too bad molds do what they do over time. If and when you build the sleeper, the fit is real spacious. You might want to just glue everything shut and fill in the gaps.

Awesome looking build, the paint is superb. Well done.

Great work you'd never know this was your first kit.

The 1:1 car looks awesome, best of luck on this build, IMHO it's the wheels that make the 1:1 really pop. The revell '57 snap kit has a set of wheels really,really close to the 1:1's, not trying to be judgemental of your choice.

Nice work Curt, looks to be a fairly decent kit. Do you have any pics of the P34?

I've had good results spaying it over a gold base.

Thanks for trying to answer my question on the channel body, I completely forgot about that. I was recently woundering how this WIP was going (I luv these Bronco's). Your really doing this truck justice in scale, make me want to attempt one myself, (like I need to start another sctrach/mod build). Fantastic progress John, I'm really looking forward to following your progress.

Agreed, I use the Duplicolour primer exclusivly, not toruble straight from the can. Too warm it up place it in a bowl of the hottest tap water you can and leave it for 5-10min then reshake it, smooth fininsh are the results.

What about using a peice of brass tubing to make a die, or is that size not available?

When you say warpped I am assuming you mean they "sink" at the seam? What sort of reshaping do you want to do? If it's just the seam then glue them together with CA glue and run a .005 thick piece of styene around the tread that's the same width as the tread, run CA along the edges sand and paint.

Ditto on the oven cleaner, Easy-Off in the pump container will get it off, or should.

Nice, gota love it when a plan comes together.

Heavy Duty Easy-Off in the yellow container, don't get the aerosol can the fumes are WAY too much. Fastest way I've found plus it removes chrome in about 10-15min. You can get it in a pump bottle.

A method I use and have been successfull with is the following. Lay down the masking tape, and never over a matt surface it'll bleed almost every time even with this technique. Once you have your tape laid down and "rubbed" really well spray the edges of the mask with a coat of clear, not too thick just enough to "seal" the edges. Let it set up for at least 12hrs, then shoot your next colour. Here's a shot of a paint job I did using this method. All the checkers where hand cut, laid down, cleared then shot with black. http://www.escalemodels.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4490

I have been using Spaz Stix for a couple years now. Switched from Alclad and never looked back. I've used both the air brush ready and the rattle can with great results. And like was said it works great with Tamiya black both laquer and acrylic.It's also much cheaper then Alclad. Here are some shots of some wheels I did with the aerosol can. http://www.escalemodels.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6355

Nice work Carl, nice ot see another Canadian boy on here.