fatkidd

had a great time at the show. met some new folks,saw some friends that I met at the show over the years, and even sold some stuff. I'll upload my pictures this evening after I get back to my room from the hospitality room.

this has to be seen in person to be fully appreciated. I got to look and droul over it at the street rod nats and it is remarkable. can't wait to see it painted and finished. glad that you got it back, Dirk. and guys, I even threatened Dirk that if he left it again, he wouldn't see it until I finished it.

car and engine look great, maltsr. I can't wait to see the end result. geemoney, trust me when I tell you to go ahead and get 3 of them. I bought one for a club build and ended up getting 2 more.

thank you, sir. its organized now. we welcome you back anytime

Mike, I don't have a problem with that. If you scroll through the pictures, there are some more of that buick. The interior was immaculate. The Pictures are from the 1:1 car show and the model contest. I'm still getting the hang of Fotki and haven't figured out how to arrange the pictures in "order"

here's the link to the pictures that I took... http://public.fotki.com/Fatkidd/model-car-stuff/model-car-contests-/2013-street-rod-nat/ a little late.

That's a brilliant idea. quick, easy, convenient and out of the way when not being used. Thanks for sharing this with us

Thanks for sharing the pictures. It was great meeting you.

thanks for sharing, 3men2s. here's a link to the pictures that I took...http://public.fotki.com/Fatkidd/model-car-stuff/model-car-contests-/2013-modelpalooza/

I like it. It is very cleanly built.

due to the curves of the rear fender of a willy's, you might want to see if a plastic spoon would work.

This is one of those questions where you might get several different answers. What I do in this situation is to (1) put B.M.F. (bare metal foil) on the body where the tail light, turn signal, etc (2) use a red sharpie to color the back side of the clear piece (you could also use an orange or yellow sharpie for turn signals) (3) glue in place with elmer's glue, alleene's glue, or whatever your glue preference is for clear parts

Did they magically grow while taking the pictures? haha All kidding aside, this one turned out quite nicely

I did a little more research into the Kustom Kolor line and discovered this little tidbit from a "Valspar" employee... (I do not know if this should be taken as concrete evidence, but it might help you. Again, I do not know the line and am saying to do this, but I would suggest a test body or spoons )... Kustom Kolor® and RU311... This seems to be a very HOT topic and for the record, I am not ashamed to admit that I have used the whole of the RU31# like in the test and trials of the Kustom Kolor line, along with acetone, lacquer thinner, and a wide assortment of other reducers and thinners. LET this be a warning to you... Adding RU310, RU311, RU312 and RU313 will work, but it will make the reduced paint VERY HOT and not friendly to Polystyrene. So, if you are going to be shooting this over Model cars and you do not like using a primer, Valspar® doesn't recommend it nor will we warranty the goop that is left on your modeling table. So, PRIME your Polystyrene Models, but I would do that even if I were shooting acrylic water-soluble over it.

What is the brand name on the can/bottle of paint? Is it actual House of Kolor? or is it the "kustom kolor" line? If it is the kustom kolor line that is made by the makers of House of Kolor, I'm not sure what to reduce those with since I have not used them. If it is true HOK paint, then you should get their reducer (RU310,RU311, RU312). I see that you put that the ratio for reducing is 5:1, so I'm assuming that it is the Kustom Kolor line. I'm not going to tell you to use HOK RU311 (mid temp reducer), but I don't believe that there would be any issues. You might also be able to get away with enamel reducer or mineral spirits. Again, I'm not familiar with the Kustom Kolor line, but I'm sure someone will chime in that has and can help you a little more.

i keep coming back to this one. The stance, the paint, the craftsmanship...this is one beautiful creation!

I was at Micheal's this evening looking for something else and I thought of this question. I did find some 7mm round mirrored discs that might work as reflectors....I believe that there was a smooth style and a faceted style

lookin' good, Jim. Nice fuel filter & distributor...

nice little tip. food for thought though... go to your local auto body supply and purchase pint paint cans...they are relatively inexpensive and they are made for paint or Michael's and Hobby Lobby both carry 2oz and 4oz solvent proof plastic bottles with a "dispenser" cap. They are $2.99 for 3 of them, but with a 40% off 2 item coupon, they aren't too bad.

thanks for the tips guys. I'll try something today and post results. Skip, It's the Jagermeister Alfa and the instructions actually call for the script to be done in chrome silver while the valve cover is done in flat aluminum. I figured change it up a bit. I'm building the car as a challenge between myself and a few other friends to see if we can build a model box stock (no detail parts added). I thought dark green would be a nice touch as I'm probably not painting the car orange like the box.

Al, I looked for you, even asked a few vendors if they knew you with no luck...maybe next time. Len, It was nice meeting you and putting the name with the face

good tip, Tom. I have been using one of these for a few years now for laquer thinner clean-up. I just recently got a smaller one for isopropyl alcohol

Thanks for the suggestions I had planned on doing the lettering in green to go along with the color of the car. I do some ultra fine point sharpies, I'll try that. I have a few errands to run, maybe I'll stop by michael's and look at paint brushes...they did have a 50% off 1 item coupon in Sunday's paper Jim, I decided to change the avatar once in a while. I doubt that anyone noticed or suspected.

I'm have a build that I've been working on here and there for a while and I decided to dig it out and work on it. It is an Alfa Romeo and has "Alfa Romeo" in raised script on the valve covers. I have already painted the engine, heads, etc but I was just wondering what some of the methods would be for painting the raised lettering? Thanks in advance for any and all contributions. I have included a picture of what I'm referring to...

Not if we see you first.