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fatkidd

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Everything posted by fatkidd

  1. Jonathan, If you click on the down arrow where you select the size that you want and go to the bottom portion of that window you should see where it says the size (1,2,4,8,16 oz) PRE REDUCED 1:1 The first size selection that they have listed is not pre reduced and you must use RU310, RU311, or RU312 to reduce it. HTH
  2. Do not use SG100 as a clear, as you've already found out. It is a basecoat with no dye in it mainly used for graphic tape outs. I pretty much use HOK exclusively and have for many years. There are several brands of clear that you can use over it. For modeling purposes, I use Nason SelectClear 2 part clear. Its about $40 for a quart "kit" (quart of clear with a half pint of reducer...it gets mixed 4:1). If you haven't sprayed a 2 part clear before, I would suggest going to a local body shop and talk to the painter and see if you can work out an arrangement for him to clear it for you...offer to buy lunch or something like that. As I was typing this, mooneyzs typed his response so I will no regurgitate what he has said. The HOK website has the info you need for flash times, dry times, etc. You could request a technical manual from them or go to a local auto body supply house and they should be able to get one for you. There shouldn't be too much of a learning curve if you haven't used it before. One thing I will suggest is to strain your paint when pouring into the airbrush. Some of the pigment and/or flakes could form a small "ball", or speck to some people and, will spit out of the airbrush at the most inopportune time, like your last coat of color, and ruin your day. As mooneyzs stated, feel free to ask if you have any more questions.
  3. Nice addition, Harry...I'll have to remember that for the next one
  4. I could not find the backer card that came with the beads, so I went to Michael's and bought another package of them. I don't see a size on here... the length of them does vary a bit in the packaging...the one that I used is approx 1/8" long
  5. you could go back over the decal with some dull coat or Tamiya flat base
  6. Rob, Here's my "off the top of my head, quick response"... Create the hood decal so that you have a black box with your chosen text and make the lettering "transparent" and print on decal paper(obviously you'll want to print on transparent decal paper) Paint the hood color of the car and apply the decal over the hood. lettering is transparent and allows the color to show through. Again, just an off the top of my head idea, but that's how I would go about doing it.
  7. can't do it on this one...I'll save it for later. mwahahaha!
  8. I will fully and whole-heartedly take that blame. The world NEEDS more things that are SHINY!
  9. rob is correct. the contest at the street rod nationals is a good show...2 days, indoor show. In Ocala, there will be the 2nd F.A.S.T. contest at the Ocala Pumpkin Run The contest is on Saturday, October 26, 2013. Friday Come check out the FAST Exhibit! Scale cars, trucks, motorcycles! Saturday Model Car Show !!! Unlimited entries will cost $7.00. Registration sheet will be available online. Make & Take from late morning into the afternoon – free to first 75 – make your own ’63 Split Vette – let the professionals help you build your own! Sunday More displays to check out.
  10. Nicely done, Jim. I was going to creatively bust your chops about something, but I can't...its well done
  11. 1. I haven't used alclad on a model...yet. 2. I use either the back edge of an xacto blade or a sharpened dental pick. 3. I use either 3M blue vinyl fine line tape and Line O Tape. here's an example of some simple line that were done with a combination of tapes mentioned above in 1/4",1/8",1/16",1/32", and 1/64".
  12. very nice, clean build. I especially like the blue strip at the top of the winshield
  13. that is awesome! its ready for a wheelie competition. great imagination
  14. If you haven't tried it yet, get yourself some plastic spoons and shoot test colors (different base colors, different amount of coats, etc) Typically, candy apple red was sprayed over a gold base. I would try with the spoons and try a silver base on one and a gold base on the other. With candies or transparent colors, it will rely heavily on the base color how many coats you spray of the candy color. HTH
  15. topless = no top
  16. looks killer, brett. would be nice to cruise around in and enjoy the breeze.
  17. lookin' good, Jim. Pretty soon you won't need the book.
  18. Ken, sand the painted parts with 600-800 to break open the "skin" of dried paint. That should allow the degreaser to penetrate the underlying layers.
  19. I really like this one, Al. From the paint to the redlines to the photo setting...this is bitchin!
  20. Thanks, Johann Unfortunately, I didn't create a build thread for this project. I did take some pic along the way of the chop in progress for future projects.
  21. thanks for sharing the pics. you definitely got some that I didn't
  22. Thanks, Jonathan
  23. Thanks, Monty. thanks, Dave
  24. Rob, I appreciate the accolades...and the honesty. Wow! Thanks, peter. I think I'm blushing a little bit. haha
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