Carmak

This is the intake in the Baker NASCAR Charger kit. These were tough pics to get as the parts are still in the bags. The intake is part of the black "generic" parts and not part of the white Charger specific parts.

Swung by a local vintage shop yesterday and found this gem. Hardly cost more than a new kit. The body is a bone stock 72 Charger Hardtop with no door indents and not a Rallye like the MPC (Rod Shop) annual.

I will be in for a few of the Longnose Mustangs just for the chassis. I have a couple late 60's AMT Funny car bodies in need of a chassis and it should be straightforward to shorten the Longnose chassis.

Another kit to look at is the AMT 1960 Starliner. It is a bone stock kit but it is a highly detailed modern kit. Many people use the chassis/engine/floor pan from the 60 kit under the 64 body. If you decide you need any detailed chassis/engine/floor pan parts the 60 kits is the way to go.

What up-top did you use?

I will mask off the vinyl area and paint it with a "hot" paint that will slightly craze the plastic. I often strip this paint off lightly and sand before painting the correct color.

It is a "normal" kit and not a curbside/Craftsman kit. It is not a great kit, and I would not recommend it. It is worth the extra time and money to get a Revell 69 Yenko Camaro. I am not an AMT hater or a Revell lover however in this case the AMT (formerly MPC) Yenko is one of AMT's poorer kits while the Revell Yenko is one of Revell's best kits. This is a Revell Yenko I built years ago (I altered the wheels and stance to personal taste).

All the parts will interchange (except the warped ones ).

I got this gem from a friend last weekend. This has been on my list for a very long time.

Looks like the Wells museum might be permanently closed . Wednesday night might work on good for Grandy if I go on the correct every other week?

I was thinking this.

To my eye the AMT 64 Impala body has very good proportions. I feel the body proportions are better than the Revell 64 Impala body. There are a couple places prone to sink marks such as the trunk (above screw posts), and the upper front fender (opposite radiator support and firewall alignment tabs). The sink marks can be hit and miss. I recently picked up an original issue survivor with no sink marks at all. Hope this helps.

Very fine build Greg! On top of what other have said there are lots of subtle changes that really look good (Like removed wing windows and removed tailgate ribs with a spare hood emblem in their place). Also, very nice work blending everything where the roof, bed and body meet.

In May 2026 my wife and I are traveling in the area of: Portland, ME, Concord, NH, Springfield, MA, New Haven, CT, Providence, RI, Boston, MA. We are in the planning stage of the trip. What 1:1 car or model car events, museums, model shops, antique malls, etc.. should we go to? Thanks.

I found this gem at a local steam power show. Been looking for one for a long time. Additionally, I just saw the recent IPMS article so I will be reinforcing this beast with lots of brass rod.

I saw this done a few years ago with a warped Falcon promo. The results were great. If you position things just right, you may be able to hide the broken windshield post with the arm.

This is currently a hot topic in drone development. Drone makers are transitioning to asymmetric blade designs to reduce that horrible whine they make. I watched a great video on this and they credit GM with some on the initial work on this topic.

I agree that American performance car culture played a part in American kits including engines. Interestingly Revell offered many kits in the early 60's with a battery powered option such as the 1962 Mopar annuals and the multi piece body 57 Ranchero. These kits also included engines.

This is pure speculation. The oldest Japanese 1:24/1:25 plastic model car bodies I have seen were originally intended for slot car racing in the early to mid 60's. Some of those bodies were turned into curbside kits when the slot car boom went bust in Japan. This may have set the precedent for curbside (powered or static) kits. The series of 66 (and one 65) American car kits Hasegawa sells were all originally slot car bodies. Below are period pics are of Japanese 1/25 scale slot car kits. It's my understanding the stock car bodies were copies of American promo car bodies.

The rear fenders were rebuilt decades ago using the qtr panels and rear door skins from a rust free 4dr. It actually all metal and not that bad. The nickname was from before the rebuild. I have had this car for over 35 years and I daily drove it in the late 80's/early 90's. I took it on an 800-mile round trip to Hayward, WI with my future wife in 92. What an adventure.

The top is why it's being moved in an enclosed trailer It also has a boot cover sitting on it which makes it look even worse.

Good eye!! That pic was taken 31 years ago. This is what she looked like a couple years ago being moved after 15+ years of storage. Notice the rear trunk emblem.

A very old pic of my 69 Bonneville 428 convertible. This is a stuffed figure sitting on the nose

I have a couple older commercial (department store) display cases. They typically cost $100 or less. I add LED light strips as they can get dark when you load then with models. The pic is a case I have been using to display 50's - early 70's original survivor builds.

Scanner technology is making leaps and bounds but we are still at a place where a VERY expensive 3D scanner is needed to capture sharp inside corners. Examples of inside corners are door lines and raised emblems (most scanners tend to blend emblems into the body). Additionally, the data from the scan can be challenging to manipulate is a CAD program as the raw data is millions of super tiny triangles.