Abell82

BULL HOCKEY!! If you build to your skill level, you'll never improve!! Build just outside your comfort zone, and you will always be learning something new. There I posted!!!

I third Harry's recommendation, and to expand on it.... Use masking tape!! Mask off the body where you want to make your cut, then you have an edge for the blade to ride against, to help make your cuts even more precise. remember, slow and steady.

Lyn, Sent you a PM.

The attention to detail is awe inspiring. Great work!

You may want to read this:Pro mod discription WIKI It may help clear some things up. For a true pro mod look, I think that you need to take a "pie-cut"out of the body through the front bumper. (Is that the right term?)

Very nice!!

Invert it, so that it hangs on the inside like a dome light, then cut it down, so it's not so big.

I have used the duplicolor metal cast? system. But it seemed like the paint was very soft. Like it never dried fully? Maybe I did something wrong, though?

I just don't see it. Maybe the handle and arm rest are switched side to side, but I just don't see it. What I do see is a poorly rendered version in scale vs. actual . The top of the arm rest is bigger, then the bottom as it should be. The chrome trim is totally incorrect, but I think they merely simplified the trim, and flubbed the handle. Maybe I am wrong though. What I do see, is squares in scale vs rectangles actual pattern. Also, the armrest is too high, and too far back. The window cranks are also too far apart height wise, because they used squares instead of rectangles...actually they seem to alternate using rectangles and squares. (Instead of all rectangles.) I don't see this being as big of a problem as a fuel tank being backwards, or head lights being turned downward, or a grille that is too big, etc. But maybe it's just me. If a model is going to be inaccurate, I would rather the interior be inaccurate then the body, or exterior. But maybe that's just me. Have you ever wondered if the engineers got bored and built in inaccuracies, just to see if people would notice? Kind of like a real car maker putting a pop can inside a frame, to make it rattle?

Technically cars come out several months inadvance, of the actual year, so a 1970 could be purchased and driven in 1969.

Chevette "Type R" ...ROFLMAO!!

What does get some bacon mean exactly? I say just pull the dang thing off, and go for the clean look, assuming there are no holes beneath the emblem. If there are holes, then get some clean Chevette emblems off Ebay, or ?? and replace them.

WOW!! I had no IDEA that Krylon had changed from Lacquer to enamel. that could SERIOUSLY mess some stuff up!! Thanks for the heads up!!

Oops...my bad.

I see a Nissan GTR. But maybe it's just me?

Bluesman Mark is right about the pens...to a point. The clean excellent, but can also be VERY DANGEROUS. The "glass" they use can be VERY irritating, and hard to detect should you get a splinter in your finger, or heaven forbid,... eye. Use caution when using these. As for the best glue. I prefer Ambroid Plastic Cement, part #1521. It's similiar to the old Testors tube glue, but a little thicker. The problem is the powers that be at the 2 major wholesellers have discontinued it, or so I am told. Which makes it hard to find. If you try it, make sure that you get no 1521 NOT The "original" Liquid Cement, no. 1511. As no. 1511 (the Original) is not nearly as good. Yet the wholesellers still carry it. (Look for the red tube and white cap!! Orange and Black=ACK!!) This is the stuff you want, if you want to try the good stuff ...

You know in the original Transformers, Bumblebee gets blown apart, and rebuilt as Goldbug. How are they going to explain calling a New Camaro, Goldbug? When director's and movie people detour from story lines that far it really ruins movie adaptations for me. I understand Chevy wanted a product placement. There was a Camaro in the second? gen called Smokescreen. Why not use him? Actually they could have used just about anyone, as I think that Bumblebee is the only one to ever be rebuilt and renamed ...(other then the Primes). And YES I did grow up in the 80's and WAS a big fan, of the originals.

I have to agree. I don't think the car was ever shown without some kind of rash, in the movie was it? (LOL)

Be safe Clay!

Hey!! What happened to the Mustang drag car you were working on? It was looking awesome. Don't tell me you gave up on it?

Nope, I have those seats, they look similar, but are not them.

I know it's not the best pic, but I hope it is good enough... The white is styrene strip that I added to make the seat taller.

Kind of... It's actually a Heavy Chevy, with the hood and intake from the yellow Malibu kit, and a set of ARII wheels. I have the other half of these 2 kits, waiting to be built... I merely traded the parts from the two kits. I just have not built the second car yet, too many other things going on. The Malibu, will have the Heavy Chevy engine, the Malibu's cow catcher front air dam, and rear spoiler... just need a paint scheme... Anyway... Has anyone tried to kit bash the Snaptite Chevelle, with the Heavy Chevy or Malibu kits? Are the mold seems in the same place on the bumpers? Any pro's and con's?

Well, you asked for it...

I think you are REALLY over thinking this!! (LOL) But yes, I understand what you mean, 3 ID vs 3 OD. I would just input 3" assume it's the true OD. No one will know but you, I assure you.