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Abell82

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Everything posted by Abell82

  1. One of the most under appreciated and rarely mentioned that comes to mind is a certain Chevelle made mostly out of brass from Charlie Ryder.
  2. Does anyone just use BMF, Black chrome?
  3. There's no need to call for "back-up", ...yet!! Darin, I would think, and hope that you of all people understand where I am coming from. And even though I come off a bit harsh at times, I do respect your work, even if I do feel the need to rib you about it. Sorry !!
  4. Darin, Now that we have discussed the side windows, lets move on shall we? The trunk lid, and rear window is wrong too! (and so possibly is the angle at which they meet)! Notice the band, between the trunk lid, and the rear window? (highlighted in blue, now.) That is correct for convertibles, but NOT for the Notchbacks/Coupes. The coupes only have a piece of window moulding there. See? Do your Reference pics include Notchbacks? (J/K!!) If it makes you feel better, the Coupes and Convertibles do use the same trunk lid, though. So, all is not completely lost. But it would seem, that atleast one of your "measurements" would have to be off, to include such a mistake?? Or maybe this is another one of those Compromises? Either way it's not correct... HTH's
  5. Try this, can you see the angle here?: How about here? : #1 It is NOT just the molding that dips down, it is the actual door and window opening. #2. It is good to see that you will finally admitt that You are wrong, You have now admitted that you are wrong. Why not correct it? What do you think people will say about this copy, as soon as they try to paint it like a police vehicle? I thought you were trying to make as acurrate a version, as possible? think about it...
  6. Ah, now we are getting somewhere!!!! If the body line is off, and your rear quarter window is accurate, won't that make it "look" off? Further if the body is off .50, and you are off by .25 that makes .75, that's quite a bit in scale is it not?? Here is a pic, of a door. LOOK closely at the front corner where the mirror goes. then look at the Revell Hatchback body and the convertible body. Notice that the 1:1 and convertible body both have a downward angle where the mirror attaches? Now notice that the hatch is straight? If you want, when I go to work Monday, I can try to get measurements for you..
  7. HEY, Darrin. A simple thanks would suffice!! NEVER said, you were doomed to failure, I said the project was doomed to be inaccurate. The BELTLINE trim mouldings are different, for an LX and a GT. Unless you are planning on changing these, the RESIN copy will NEVER be 100% ACCURATE. Thus dooming said project to atleast some inaccuracy. As for the rest well, I can respond to each and every one if you would really like...
  8. This Project is doomed, to be inaccurate. For a number of reasons, the least of which is that, it is based on the hatchback body, rather than the more accurate convertible body. Darrin, you need to re-check your measurements!! Then take another look at the convertible, and the hatchback. The problem lies in the upper body line. While I understand the decision, to use the hatchback body, for interchangability, the hatch is the least accurate, especially along the upper body, bottom of the windows. Notice, that your body appears to have a 1-2 inch chop, on the top that you made? It is mostly visual, but it is there, because the top of the doors are the wrong shape, and come up too far. This makes the side windows too short, and thus your quarter windows the wrong size and shape. This may be what is throwing off your measurements. This could be corrected in the same way that you corrected the New AAR Cuda... Marc... I don't think that anyone on here is not giving Darrin the benefit of the doubt. It is a matter of trying to help him turn a "Lemon, into Lemonade" by correcting the defects, and flaws BEFORE it is cast, and becomes one of those "EYEBALL ENGINEERED" kits, that he has expressed disdain for. If it is not accurate, then why bother to make it? Why not just correct an AFX/AAM body, (ASSUMING that you can actually get one.) With everyone, on here trying to point out it's flaws, there is a "better chance" of getting it correct.
  9. The Dash, is the only thing Cougar, in the interior. The hood has scoops, they are just not cut out. One of the 2 had a Boss 429, one had a SOHC 427. BOTH prototypes are still in existance, alive and well!! I have one I had started, and plan to get back to around the first of next year. HTH's
  10. I do respect, and understand the decision, to not do a Resin Master for casting, that would require a vacuformed window. It is an interesting subject, and I hope that you sell many copies.
  11. Great build, of a rarely seen subject!!
  12. Well, since you asked... Great concept idea!! ::WARNING:: If you are just looking for a pat on the back, stop here!! Now... What would make it look better: The rear spoiler looks a bit too thick, and the rear window, does not appear to be wide enough. IE: The rear window, looks as though, it will be flat, or mostly flat. It should have a complex curve to it, like that of the original Daytona Cobra Coupes (or Viper GTS Coupes). replica: With the flat rear window, it looks more like a Datsun, or Datsun based replica, than it should. Replica: (Personally, I would have tried to leave a bit more structure to the rear panel, ("Deck lid"??)like the Datsun replicas have. It is a "new"or "updated" concept after all. The reasoning for this is that if this car were designed today, I think it would be required, in case of rear end collision or "spin out". (Crush zones and all that) I think that, I would have tried to use the Viper GTS's rear window, if possible, but not the roof. As this "MAY" have saved time and trouble. The Viper roof, is no good, as it has "2 humps" and these make the roof look like a Barbie dolls butt, made into a roof. This is JMHO yours may very well, vary greatly. HTH
  13. just type "flame stencil", (or copy and paste if you are REAL lazy ) into your favorite search engine. You'll get Plenty!!
  14. Me LIKES!!
  15. There have been SEVERAL posts, about using CSC, and Purple power on this board, and others. HOWEVER, in case you have not read any of them= Make sure you wear thick rubber gloves, and use eye protection. This stuff can be nasty if misused. My avatar misused some CSC, and look what happened to him!!
  16. DO NOT DILUTE!! Purple Power Is like generic Castrol Super Clean. It will not hurt most plastics, but may take a bit longer than CSC. I would leave it in for 24 Hours, brush with an old tooth brush, vegetable brush, or fingernail brush, and repeat as necassary. HTH's
  17. 1980 Mustang Cobra:
  18. Keith Marks also, does the King Cobra decals as well. He will often do them in special colors, as requested, for a small additional fee. HTH's Best thing to do though, is to email him a sample of the color you want to make sure you get what you hope too.
  19. I have been looking for an L-88 69 Chevelle hood for years, with no luck. You would think it would be a natural. Sooner or later, I'll break down, and make my own!!
  20. Sorry Marcos, I did not mean to take away from your very nice build. It looks great! Here is what I was talking about, only with matching steel wheels. (pictures blatantly stolen from cardomain.)
  21. I have not scapped it yet!! I have just been too busy, to really give it much attention. Sorry. I should be able to get back to it in the coming weeks. Now that things are slowing down, again, and it's getting colder.
  22. I liked it better, before you painted the bumpers and side trim black. If you had left them body color, and if it had GTS decals across the door, it would look just like my old car.
  23. Beautiful!!
  24. Nice!!
  25. AHHH!! I see!! Nice build.
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