Abell82

The overall style is cool, but where are the mirrors, and why is there a hole in the hood?

Good Job! That is one fine build!!

My Big Lots had lots of kits 300c Nova II Corvette Drag version Escalade, and a couple others. (No Ford Vert or F&F Mustang though) I passed on all of the kits they had, so that I could purchase the 6 AMT 1/25th Display cases !!

It really depends on the theme of the overall car, but I think that all black, with a lemon yellow modified AAR stripe, would be neat, though possibly hard to pull off. ( Cuda with a Lemon Twist?) (Yellow over black= possibly transparent??(Also may prove hard to photograph.)) or use a green stripe (Cuda with a twist of Lime?) Another possibility, would be a Creamsicle car= Orange and Vanilla (Vanilla where it would be black). Or A Halloween theme car Orange and Black Personally, I like the thought of a Medium to Bright Metallic Blue, like GM Rallye blue or Metal Specks Blue? and a dark gray metallic like Medium Charcoal Metallic. Or possibly use a dark gray metallic over a maroon metallic. Or Just build a Barely Cuda II and use the same colors as the first. or.... Hmmm ....not really helping at all am I ?? Sorry!!

Tom started it!!

I want to make a 1967 Beaumont. Similiar to this one. I plan to start with the Revell, 67 Chevelle SS, but how do I make a decent front grille?? Does anyone offer one in resin? How about the rear end, and taillights? The taillights appear to be quite similiar to a 68 Roadrunner? Anyone ever made one of these? Advice? Tips? Anything at all?

I just noticed that AF/X N Scale resin has updated thier site, and they now claim to be producing the LX Coupe again. Of course, selling them, and ACTUALLY shipping them... Here is the pic, from their site.

Thanks Kelson, I appreciate that... On a side note, I just noticed that AF/X N Scale resin has updated thier site, and they now claim to be producing the LX Coupe again. Of course with the reputation, they have given themselves as of late, I would not recommend trying to order it. (Reliable Resin, is said to be working on one also.) But still,... maybe there is some hope for all those people with outstanding existing orders, from AF/X N Scale,... MAYBE . Here is the pic, from their site.

Are you saying that you're not? J/K!!!

Isn't that Beretta, one of the harder to find kits? Why not use a Matt & Debbie Hays, T-bird instead? Then you get it all in one shot? Just asking.

I wanted to try to get the LX Hatchback done, before Darin B, and Reliable Resin released thiers, but I do not see that happening, as I am working too much, and it is the busy time for my other hobby. I was trying to figure out how to make the front bumper for the LX Hatchback, that I was working on. I was going to start with a GT Convertible front bumper. I started on it, and then realized that it would not work, on the hatchback. Well, since I have a started LX front bumper, I decided, that there was only one thing to do. Make a convertible, too. So here is what I had: The openings in the bottom, were too numerous. And I still needed to work, on the beltline. Here is how it looks now: Corrected the lower opening from 8 to 6, and gave it a bit more curve, down and out. (How does it look??) ( Should I have quit while I was ahead? ) Still, needs a bit more work, to the beltline, but it's coming along. The ends, around the word "Mustang" are there, they just need to be brought out abit more, with some careful filing. The beltline/body trim is NOT the same, for a GT, and an LX. So it will not be 100% correct. But I am going to do my best to make it look o.k.. ( I accidently knocked the crossbar out redoing the lower openings. It will be re-installed.) Comparison photo: Still need to re-radius the front wheel wells. I also need to make the taillights, and I am toying with the idea of making a rear spoiler, like the one on the 93 Limited Editions. (Either that or make it into a 7-UP car. Anyone know the paint code for those, or a close paint match?) Thoughts, opinions, criticisms?? See anything that needs corrected? Or More correction?

Your pics, arent showing up. Welcome!!

They make them in diecast, otherwise you'll have to customize a Revell 99 Cobra.

I think they had 14 inch tires, not 15. And the wheels, while similar to, are not 100% accurate for, an AE86. These cars are still popular cars in the import community. And the AE86's engine was no slouch, it's self. Looks good so far. My 1:1 was a Metallic blue, 5 Speed .

So what Body, did we loose to gain this ... this thing? Did they modify the tool for the old AAR, or the Challenger, or?

Looks good from here!!

Edit: Since we are cutting the heck up out of this thread I thought I'd show pics of the finished nose

I see no mention of the taillights, unless they are included in the phrase "essentially everything the previous attempts at this subject have been lacking." (just messing with you Darin) You better get busy Darin, many people are waiting, including myself. For those that can't wait, there is someone that has a copy they are selling now. You can find out how to order on that other message board, the one that only allows 3 pics per post.

"TorinoDave"... kinda has a nice ring to it, doesn't it?

Nice !!

Depends. How well glued is it? Can you change, or modify it without breaking it? If not, and... If it were mine, I would.... Stick a fork in it, call it done, and move on to the next one!! After all each one is a learning experience, right? And besides, it's not without it's charm.

Here's mine.

1.) Start spraying before you get to the part, and stop spraying after you get passed the part. 2.) I'm not sure what package you are talking about for the decals? The Revell kit should have included water slide decals. This means that you will have to cut them out dip them in water and wait about 35-45 seconds to move them off the paper. Dabbing a little water on the model part the decal is being applied to is a good idea, and will help positioning. This is how I do it, I am sure there are other ways!! HTH.

1.) Start spraying before you get to the part, and stop spraying after you get passed the part. 2.) I'm not sure what package you are talking about for the decals? The Revell kit should have included water slide decals. This means that you will have to cut them out dip them in water and wait about 35-45 seconds to move them off the paper. Dabbing a little water on the model part the decal is being applied to is a good idea, and will help positioning. This is how I do it, I am sure there are other ways!! HTH.

When using clear tape as a mask. Tape the clear tape to a clean mirror or picture first, then peel it off and use it, on the model. This will help make the tape not so sticky and may prevent paint peel up. The tape may need to be taped to the mirror and peeled up more than once, depending on brand, original stickyness, and etc. HTH!!