VW Dave

I'd say Fujimi

...and the reason she got the job was that she was producer 'Bud' Brutsman's girlfriend

LOL Craig! I was thinking one for the Hemi, and one for a small block....but the chassis has the 'Hemi only' torque boxes. I'm really looking forward to this one hitting the shelves, after buying one of each of Revell's prior attempts

I'm impressed by the amount of work you're doing making that ill-fitting kit into a nice model - my grandfather used to call that 'making chicken salad out of chicken....(well, you know).' I'd say remove the trim strips, as it's a hot rod anyway. The pro street trend/movement was actually started to emulate the pro/stock drag cars, and those huge rear tires need to be within the stock body width; a narrowed rear end is a must. Roll bars and engine size on a street car, unlike the drag cars, are entirely up to the builder. A few builders even did up FWD cars as pro streeters, while maintaining the original FWD drivetrain.

Ordered and PayPal'd moments ago - looking forward to them

I watched it and DVR'd it.....there is a new standard for 'cojones' now

It does, but those are late 70's/early 80's cop car steelies; nice, but not accurate for a '70 B-body

I'm also liking the hard resin ones....light sanding beats handpainting RWLs any day. Any idea of pricing on those tires? I'm looking forward to a few pairs of bigs and littles, and wanna make sure I can swing it.

By your description, it's a Tudor sedan you're after. I recently picked up a chopped resin Tudor body from Ebay that I really don't need....impulse buy...PM me and we can talk trades.

Took the words right outta my mouse

All the time. An easy build can be a good break from whatever rut I'm in, and finishing something is a really big boost

Even if it has been there for a while, I'd worry that dipping the part might 'float' the decal...if you have a spare piece of kit glass and another decal to spare, I'd say test it out there first.

At the risk of sounding repetitive, I like what you've shown us so far....and I really like the grille too. I see that you sanded the edges of the door handles and gills off....adding PE to those as well?

For about 6 bucks with their coupon from my Sunday paper, I got a huge 8-12"x11" pack from Michaels; there's enough in the pack that I've given a bunch away to friends and I'll probably still never run out in my lifetime.

Love that PE tread detail! My 1:1 Manx buggy has 275/50-15s BFGs on the rear and 225/60-14s on the front.....count me as a big 'YES' on a set of bigs & littles.

Amphi, Amphi, Amphi!!! Needless to say, I'm really looking forward to that one.

I agree, nice job!! Don't forget the underdash 8-track and Cal Custom gas pedal too

Random wetsanding and DullCote are a good way to go.....and probably not far off from how the real truck was done

On the brass roof rack I made for my '56 Beetle, I used 5-minute epoxy aplied with a small disposable 'Microbrush' from my LHS: Wax paper under the rack ensures that the epoxy doesn't go anywhere you don't want it to; dried epoxy pops right off the wax paper.

I agree.

Thanks to Jeff Salem (jeffs396) and Ron Martz (rmvwguy) for your donations and kind words, both here and sent along with your donations. Your ticket stubs are ready to mail out today. Jeff - To answer your question about 'snail-mailing' ticket stubs vs. emailing them, most people I surveyed before starting this thing said they feel more secure of their chances with actual tickets in their hands. If I can offer that peace of mind for 40 some-odd cents, and it will help boost ticket sales, I'm all over it.

If nobody else has said it yet....'ME-ME-ME!!!' You have a PM on the way, sir

I also used the above technique to get my 'Channel Surfer' deuce roadster in the weeds:

Not long ago I put together a 'quick and dirty' tutorial on channeling the Revell '32 using just the kit-supplied parts, and maybe it will help: http://public.fotki....eling-a-revell/ Here's a quick photo of an OOB vs. channeled '32, using the same tires and suspension parts. You can see that the lower shock mount is at the same position on both, and the difference is the body's position over the frame:

Strange, I've been receiving PayPal donations almost daily.....probably a hiccup on their end. PM me for my mailing address, or try the PayPal addy one more time: hadleys.heart2012@gmail.com