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Mr. Metallic

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About Mr. Metallic

  • Birthday 12/09/1976

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  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    all

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  • Website URL
    http://public.fotki.com/crstan/
  • Facebook
    Low Note Rod Custom and Speed Shop

Profile Information

  • Full Name
    Craig Stansfield

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Mr. Metallic's Achievements

MCM Ohana

MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. Man the sculpting you did on the front end is well thought out. Everything flows, but like Ace said it keeps the signature of what it started as. Looks great on one color, looking forward to seeing it in actual color.
  2. I didn't have any issue with assembly. It was a dream for most builders when the kit was new, just like all the other Monogram hot rod kits from the early 60's. They practically fall together. (questionable real world location of the exhaust hanger aside)
  3. Great to see you back to the bench Bil. Love the flavor you have marinating on this 48.
  4. Really digging the wedge section and the way things are flowing. Not sure about your headlight idea yet, but I'm definitely following.
  5. If they took that route it would be a welcome shift but EXTREMELY surprising.
  6. Here's the one I built 15 (!) years ago. Virtually the only parts I used were the cab, interior and fenders. This was before i was bitten by the faux-vivor bug. I do have a vintage one molded in purple that I do plan to do in my polished plastic series. @Dave Darby Dave Darby did discuss this kit in one of his Vintage Workbench articles in this mag if you're looking for some build ideas
  7. Here's my advice as far as the body work. I am no expert, but feel I get pretty decent results. I only use Tamiya filler for slight imperfections (less that a fingernail scratch) Tamiya filler tends to shrink for anything deeper than that unless it sits for a very long time. For anything deeper I use Dolphin Glaze (equivalent to Evercoat or 2 part Bondo). Using the plastic/solvent glue method can work but you have to be absolutely sure the glue is done curing or it will ghost. My practice anymore is to get all the bodywork done and then do the entire body with one coat of fine Tamiya primer. Then proceed to color. Others may have different experiences, but this is what works for me.
  8. My understanding of the origin of the Box Stock class, and I could be wrong, is not throwback models. It was a response to the explosion of aftermarket companies in the 80's tat continued to expand in the 90's, and the perception that simply throwing a bunch of that stuff at a build automatically equaled trophy worthy. Box Stock was then created to showcase technique over dollars spent.
  9. for some reason i can't see the pics. Anyone else?
  10. This is off to a great start. That engine is wild. Is it a replica of a real slant 8 or a flight of fancy?
  11. You were right with your earlier observation that the AMT body is shorter through the cowl than the Revell. That is an issue with all AMT 32 Ford bodies. However, it can be made to work to ones advantage if you want the look of a slightly sectioned car, which is what you have achieved here. This side profile is niiiiice!
  12. Welcome back Jay. I've seen you back on the socials, good to see your attention turned back to this build.
  13. I've recently become intrigued by this kit. Is this version the only one that came with the full clear(non-tinted) roof insert? I know another version came with an orange tinted roof, and the version I have from the SSP series in the 90's has just a sunroof.
  14. Ambitious project you have going here simply because you started with the Revell 56 pickup, a tough customer for sure. But the improvements you are making look great.
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