Foxer

I have to agree. I have a corded Dremel that's over 20 years old and always works ... I will never need another. But, I DO have another .. a Dremel Stylus I got because it's cordless. I would advise anyone getting a new tool to get a Dremel cordless model. They all have speed control but my cordless goes down to a much lower speed which is desirable when grinding plastic so it doesn't melt. The rechargable battery is ALWAYS ready to go as it sits in the charger-stand all the time .. it's meant to and never fails. It's fairly old as the Stulus as been discontinued for the NEXT model. I learned long ago the cheapest tool is the best one .. you will always be buying at least two of the cheaper ones.

We sure could use something like this .. even decals, but I doubt it would be cost effective to supply decals for all the kits needing them ... that's was the job of the creator when the kits were made!

I wish I could say I'm getting one just to support Moebius' great job on all their kits, but this is just a plain ugly boring car .. consider why they went out of business! I just don't know what I'd do with it. Jon's photo of that yellow one IS the best looking Hudson I've seen, though .. good looking on it's own.

Medicine bottle tubs .. filing away for recall ... that cab body sure looks rigid now!

The Ferrari went to mock up stage this morning to figure what's next. Engine is wired and wheels are painted aluminum and fit well. It looks like the hood hinges need adjustment to clear the fan belt .. hopefully just some bending of the hoops. Everything needs washing and aging and decades of neglect and miss use. I wish this was a steel body car so I could rust up to show some signs of neglect. The aluminum body is going to be tough to abuse ... maybe a story of replacement steel fenders, nut there seem to be no body seams on this car!

The Ferrari went to mock up stage this morning to figure what's next. Engine is wired and wheels are painted aluminum and fit well. It looks like the hood hinges need adjustment to clear the fan belt .. hopefully just some bending of the hoops. Everything needs washing and aging and decades of neglect and miss use. I wish this was a steel body car so I could rust up to show some signs of neglect. The aluminum body is going to be tough to abuse ... maybe a story of replacement steel fenders, nut there seem to be no body seams on this car!

Ricardo sent the engine to Ferrari to be rebuilt and he wanted a Hot Rod bore and stroke. Ferrari replied that they didn't know what 'Hot Rod' meant and they don't change engine specifications. So he had the engine shipped to his friend Luigi Marioski who was fired from Ferrari after getting caught selling Ferrari Badges on ebay. He told Luigi to get him 100 more horsepower from the engine no matter what the cost or modification, as long as the modifications didn't show externally. We won't go into WHAT Luigi did. The engine is coming together slowly as it gets painted. The distributors have three .04 square strips added to the top for the coil and 2 ignition wires with the other four drilled below. The will pass through the black tube on the valve cover to the plugs between the header pipes. I'm going to use yellow wires .. something else Ferrari refused to do. What a rats nest of wires! I had one yellow wire and have a half inch left over after these .. whew! The ones out of the distributor all go into the end of the tube on the valve cover. The plug wires go into holes spaced along the side of the tube. I'm glad now I went with the yellow wires.

The ferrule intake tubes are in and not the best work but they will do. One thing I did that could have been left was file the flange where the tubes almost touch .. the 1:1 has this done and it is very obvious. The copper color is showing through now. May do a little silver touch up. I really didn't have to do this with the small flanges.

Ferrari 250 GTO The plastic hinges have been replaced with "standard" brass ones. I really like how well the hood fits on this. I decided to try some ferrules to replace the thick kit intake pipes after some suggestions on a thread here. I was able to order some in the exact size of the largest and smallest diameters of the kit ones but they will have to be shortened. I'm debating how I will do this as they are very thin, but they look more realistic than the kit ones. I think I'll have to flatten the bell which seems to have been done on the 1:1 according to photos online. I did use the knife to cut the ferrules and it worked beautifully. Being "crushable" they must be softer metal than I had assumed ... thanks again guys for kicking me in the butt to do this. I never was a fan of cutting tube this way.

Ferrari 250 GTO Ricardo found a pair of mag wheels to fit the back where he was missing an original wheel. Now he could slip the wheels on to see how the clearances were. Up on wheels! Oh, the Ferrari people are going to groan!

Rating himself as an "excellent" welder, Ricardo fired up the torch and laid down a weld that, if nothing else, sealed the aluminum fuel tank against leaks, if not a nuclear explosion of the engine. I can't wait to spray some aluminum paint on this! This afternoon after washing and drying. Ricardo says 'of course' when his "excellent" welds passed the leak test and can now be mounted in the trunk. That thirsty V12 will he happy too!

Ricardo has removed the body from frame and sprayed it with red primer. Odds are it's going to stay like this for the Run. This guy has NO taste! The local Ferrari afficondos are screaming "SACRILEGO!" Ricardo just laughs and throws the makeshift fuel tank into the trunk for a test fit. The body was primed to check areas needing more bodywork .. or distressing. Been studying aluminum corrosion. There was a leaking wine vat above it during all these years in storage. Most of the other parts have been cleaned up too. I started fabricating a fuel tank for extra capacity to put in the trunk, but. and knowing better, started it while the body was wet and inaccessible for fitting. My imagination went wild and the result wouldn't fit with the body .. no way-no how. So I spent another half day cutting it down and now it fits. I found a set of American style mags and tires for the rear to replace the missing Ferrari wheel .. pics next time maybe.

I don't like that my build posts get lost in the huge Cannonball Community Build thread , so I'm doing what others have done and start a separate thread for the build ... more for my own ability to find it! These will be duplicates of posts made in the Cannonball thread and most likely more photos here. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This follows the rules set for this Sleeperball Cannonball Run: 1. Take a car that is not normally considered fast. Make it fast without altering its appearance that might let on that it's fast. 2. If the car IS normally thought of as fast, it should be in such poor condition/appearance, that no one would give it a second glance. There is no limit on, year/make or model, as long as it meets the above criteria. The subject must appear to NOT be capable of running such a race. Sky is the limit on imagination. HOWEVER this time we won't be limited the parts used on the racer to this year, so feel free to use those modern drivetrains and rolling stock. Monogram Ferrari 250 GTO OK .. I'm committing to a group build .. I have trouble finishing any of these I start, but I have trouble finishing any build I start! I'm going to really try to get this one in the race. (please note that this story is pure conjecture and imagination based loosely on fact) This is the one out of 39 Ferrari 250 GTO's that has disappeared since it was rumored to have been sold in 2014 for $39 million. It was owned by the Violati family since 1965 and , again per rumors, to have resided in an old wine brewery in northern Italy. Found by Ricardo Violati who used the barn to house his wrecked Lamborgini's and newer Ferraris from his father after his drunken rides through the Itialian alps. Ricardo had no respect for the value of money. He was handed anything he desired by his wealthy family and cast all aside as he was given new toys. He also had no respect for the great engineering that created the automobiles that he so carlessly abused and cast aside. Yes, Ricardo was a spoiled rich kid. Despite his disrespect for the automobile, his favorite movie was " Cannonball Run", not for the excitement of the various vehicles but for the way they were abused. On reading of a new Cannonball Run for 2015 he decided he HAD to participate in this American tradition and "show those amatures how to drive!". Reading rule two ...If the car IS normally thought of as fast, it should be in such poor condition/appearance, that no one would give it a second glance .. he decided he had many cars to chose from. He ricochetedoff the the Alps to his winery cache and chose the missing 250 GTO he spent a night polishing the seat with the acidic heaving of his stomach. The winery rats had had their way with the seats and the leaking winery roof took it's toll on the body. The smashed right front fender he crushed on that last night could be replaced easily with a replica. Mysteriously one of the wire wheels was missing ... he wondered if it might have been that bothersome guy trying to buy this derelict. It would be cool to see a set of American mags on the GTO anyway ... nice fat ones in back! The rest could be fixed with duct tape and paint from the local ValMart. This model is a glue bomb from an ebay jumk pile of sports cars I got for a Porsche 944 build. It had virtually no paint, other than the oddly used black in body panels. The builder had troubles applying the tube glue effectivly as it was sparce in some places and way over glued in others. The glue could be plainly seen everywhere. Looking at the car cloesly I could see why the Monogram Ferrari 250 GTO was released by many companies .. it is a very nice kit for it's age and nicely detailed. So, I threw it in the freezer to see if it could be taken apart. It all reverted to it's "natural" stay pretty well .. many broken locator pins, but they are easily replaced. The only piece that remains stubborn is the glass ... it refuses to budge loose. I started to just grind it out but it still won't come loose. I may just leave it and mask off for painting. No box art but here's the starting condition and what I've done to date .. and now ..

aha .. of course .. a rubber band! Thanks for the info. ))

I'm mostly curious about that base that "turns 4 hours without batteries" ... sounds like that probably wasn't included ...

... which would be photobucket or Fotki most likely as they are the most popular here.

Never heard of him .. had to Google and right there I knew why .. country beer drinker I guess .. I doubt he knows what Sam Adams is though .. unfortunate. .. prolly drinks that bottled water .. Bud

That came out really well! You sure got lucky finding that die cast to build you 1:1. I'm a little late finding this but enjoyed going through the build start to finish. I'd like to ask one thing .. what is the orange goop you used to mask the insides of the wheels for painting? I have need for a similar masking job.

Everyone is correct that there is very little difference between 1/24 and 1/25. I started with the first AMT kits back in 1958 and have been 1/25 prejudice for a long time. Comparing a 1/25 Beetle to other 1/25 cars I had built convinced me I would not go to 1/24 when I got back into the hobby 20 years ago. I was building all the cars I had owned and wanted them all to look to scale with each other. But, I DID build those 1/24 Bugs and have bought more 1/24 kits because they were the only ones offered that I "needed". I have found the scale doesn't really matter anymore to me .. better to have a model of the car than none at all. I have also been switching parts from the two scales back and forth with no apparent difference. Sometimes there is, but most of the time the scale difference is two small to matter. Here's a perfect example of how the scale doesn't matter between 1/25 and 1/24 ... I'm building a 1/25 Revell '49 Mercury Wagon that I have mounted the body to the frame from a Monogram 1/24 Chevy pickup truck!!! It all fit like it was made to do this. So this old man doesn't worry about these two scales anymore .. I'm a FREE man!

Interesting, but very expensive for the possibilities in model cars. Would be interesting to flow it into a mold.

I have a Subaru Legacy wagon that's been in the works for years. It has a broken window post at the rear that is too small for plastic glue to work well. The roof exerts a slight pull on the post which i swhat pulled it apart using the plastic glue. I couldn't find a way to get the post held tight so I could glue it and let it sit while the glue cured. I took the Bondic and just spread some across the joint very thinly so it wouldn't affect the glass fit. I could then hold the post tight with one hand as I applied the light with the other and let everything go in 4 seconds! The post held with the thin coat of Bondic on only one side. The post at the rear corner of the roof is the one that was repaired. It was at the roof joint. The white reflection is off the Bondic. Other shiny areas are from the first repair. I have to add that Bondic is not a good glue. It seems to stick at first but the bond is very weak. It worked as an alighnment tool for this window post but the joint came apart with the slightest pressure until the window kept it in place.

Silly Putty doesn't hold it's shape enough to use as a mold. It actually will flow I believe. I use an RTV silicone 2-part putty that works very weld. It was from a resin casting kit I bought 20 years ago and the RTV still works.

Door handles for sure. I think scripts could be done if you got a good enough mold. It would be a little flexible being that thin ... an interesting idea. Getting it chrome would probably take some Alclad. I'll have to look at some bodies for some scripts to try on.

It would work but would add material equal to how thick a coating you put on. It is quite vicious but would be easily spreadable with a brush. I expect it would add strength at least equal to if the part was originally cast to the same thickness in plastic (it IS plastic, though I do not know the type). If the added thickness isn't objectionable, I expect it would work though replacing wheel spindles with brass tubes would be better. It would be difficult to control the coating thickness. I'll have to find something the extra thickness wouldn't be objectionable on and try it in my thread about various uses I have found. If anyone has a specific part they think this would be useful on, post it so I can try.

The valve cover clips are awesome! ... I forgot all about them since I haven't worked on a 1:1 Bug in 30 years .