Foxer

The various texture colors look very good! I'd recommend removing mold lines from the parts for a more realistic look. They detract especially from the exhaust system.

ehehh .. my mind is going fast ...

This is possible but the masking will replace the troubles you mention as the tough part. If you feel the masking is no problem, go for it!

Interesting . there ARE '55's with steel fenders! I take a lot of heat for rusting my Cameo's fenders . eheh OK .. double checked . the Cameo is a '57 .. well, I can lie about the year of the 1:1 .. like I do now saying the model is a early prototype with steel fenders ..

Beautiful build AND photography!

The discoloration on the exhaust looks perfect! I'm going to have to try those washes you mentioned.

You are correct, Lee. I complain often about people on the phone weaving all over the place and just noticed I did a touch when I was "distracted" by a hot car .. I am going to try to curtail this practice .. maybe have the wife drive so I can actually focus on the photo. Many of those photos WERE taken while I was a passenger.

This is a great thread for those just looking to improve their building ... great suggestions, guys!

I DID say EVERYONE! .... These were all taken one handed while I was driving.. not always good framing bu tmore when I get into th eolder ones to edit ..

and more .. something for everyone ..

I'm happy to see a new On The Road thread started .. thanks Harry. This is something I get a kick out of .. I always have my DSLR ready when I'm driving and snap everything. Here's the cars since beginning of June .. the garages are open in the Berkshires!

Welcome to the forum. You're way up there in Rouses Point. I used to take many trips to a paper mill in Plattsberg in five different Porsches .. the mill manager would pay my Northway speeding fines as they were usually down and needed help badly . ehhe Hope to see your wok here .

All of this has been done magnificent ... from the interior (and all that bmf chrome) to the right-on exterior colors (and all that bmf chrome!)! Mine is still waiting from 1996 because my BMFing isn't what it used to be. I'll get tough and get it because it's the '59 I had.

paste the following line into Google search .. or a variation of the search term at the end ... and you may have better luck finding it. site:modelcarsmag.com 65 Chevy Stepside

I'm going to try some Mr. Mark Setter and Softer as they are said to be stronger than Micro Sol and Set. I can't help thinking this problem is due to that plastic film that Dale mentioned.

Paint Scratch has recently started selling their paint in rattle cans. I've been using their paint for models of the cars I've owned and have been happy with it. Usually it's been touch up paint I thin and use in my airbrush but I've been getting their rattle cans lately and have been happy with the results. Maybe this fits your description of "Other than having a color mixed a put into a rattle can" but it's no different there than buying Duplicolor off the shelf .. and you have choice of about every car color ever made.

Yes, you pay USD .. put it's seamless. It will take a bit more time but things still come amazingly fast and is a bit more cost. I use it mostly for things I can't get anywhere else.

Welcome back to the hobby, Joe. I also use Model Roundup. For Japanese kits and supplies I usually go to Hobby Search. I've bought many tools from Micro Mark. There are many dealers online but these I've always had good luck with.

Thanks for the comments, guys. I'm going to try that hot damp cloth trick. The apparent thickness sounds like a plastic film ... doesn't removing it affect the decal quality?

I know many here use Papilio decal paper and I'm using it for the first time on some large decals and am having problems getting it to settle over some raised body areas. I got a kit with both clear and white paper and some of their liquid fixative that is applied with a sponge. Since this was my first time with Papilio I used the fixative rather than spraying with clear acrylic as I always do on ink jet decals. It went down pretty thin but looked ok once It dried. The first decal I tried apparently had a spot I missed and the ink ran. So I applied a couple light acrylic clear coats. The decals went on fine although the clear carrier appeared thicker than the paper I usually use. Now I'm having trouble getting the decal to settle down over the body contours. See the image below. I use Micro Set and Micro Sol but they do not appear to be softening the decals. I'm wondering, from experienced Papilio users, if a different setting solution works better and what solutions have worked well with this paper.

I've used Sophisticated Finishes Rust system but have never put much on top of it. Of course, I'd try on a scrap body or something, but a coat of Dull Coat first should protect the Sophisticated Finishes rust and I'd expect you shouldn't have trouble with non-lacquer bast products on it. Wish you luck and let us know how it goes. I'm sure there will be more experienced comments to follow.

where's the gears?

Beautiful Kombi! You did a great job on the windows, something I know about ... I've been working on my Dad's '56 that I learned to drive on.

I love that candy over the black .. looks perfect on this beautiful truck .. great rescue!

A beautiful looking build .. and a cool car to boot!