Foxer

very nicely done ... weathering looks just right and realistic!

:Keone is right. I think this looks better than flocking and goes on the same with thinned white glue. It can also be painted so color isn't a big deal.

I have some leather-like sheets and also velvet similar to what you're talking about. I've only tried the velvet paper om a pretty flat surface and it looked great. Something very curvy might be a problem, but doable is not curved in two directions.

This is spectacular!

Looks like I need to visit my grandsons in NJ this April!

The side shot is a WOW!

Just checking in to say it's a pleasure watching this progress I love bodywork intensive builds.

Nice bodywork! Came out looking great.

Welcome and there does seem to be a rash of people from Oregon coming on ... must be winter setting in!

I'm retired but am a licensed Structural Engineer.

RIP, Lou.

Yeah, a Kombi would have been nice ...

Ahhhhhh ... the sweet smell of Lombardo! Good to have you back. This one's a class act .. that roof really works, thou I'd love to see a straight on side shot (boring) to really see the roof curve.

First, it's great to see you back, Peter! Hope you business venture has smoothed out and allows you some model time. Next, this came out spectacular! I remember well your WIP and the set of 3 versions sounds cool.

Very nice .. looks really good! Must be a V12 in there to weigh those rear wheels down!

Those photos really show the work you put into getting the roof to flow ... I say SUCCESS! Can't wait to see it in paint ..

It's just the Hobby Search website. They always publish the instructions on all their model kit listings. The main site is: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/ Just put "Fujimi Garage & Tools , No.15" into the search box.

Instructions are on this page ... http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10045308

I have a resin Triumph TR4A I'm building that was in need of a boot. I cut down the boot from a '51 Chevy to fit, though it still needs some work. Just an example of a possibility.

I build a lot of cars I've owned so I use auto touch up paint and end up with lacquers most of the time. I use Plastikote T 235 Sandable Gray primer to protect the plastic and also for all the bodywork I end up doing. There are a couple companies that supply OEM Auto colors in small quantities for models. Enamel modeling paint is also very good, especially if thinned with lacquer thinner so it dries fast. Personally, I like Testors One Coat Wet Look Clear Lacquer as the final clear coat and shine. Painting is one area I don't particularly like so I use spray cans whenever possible and use paints that make it simple.

There's a recent thread going on just this subject ...

I don't have any photos of my '84 but looking at all the photos I see, it must have had the smooth rock chip protectors. Maybe I can trace the ones on the Hasegawa and transfer to some very thin sheet. The rough stuff plastered to the bottom edge I know wasn't there. I also realized I will need to even out the bottom edge between wheel wells that are actually molded to the frame, This is starting to be worst than updating a VW Beetle!

You're right, Skip, but the 1984 I had didn't have that protection ,,, it was just smooth like the Testors body I'm using. The Hasegawa Porsche 944 Turbo kit I'm using to build the 1991 S2 I had does have that protective coating molded in, as you can see below. It even has the smooth piece above the rough area protecting the rear fender from chips. Thanks for noting this little piece of 944 history! EDIT: I found a photo of my 944 and it did have the stone guards, also looks like the rocker bumpy material.

It's been a bit since I last posted, but things are advancing. Leaving today for NJ to see grandkids, so will throw some photos up when I return. The body is in primer and the interior has dash fitted with one coat of paint. The wheels are done but haven't decided on how I'm going to mask and paint them. Maybe all these miles on the road will come up with a decision. Thanks for the comments.

In addition to that mentioned above I strip more to remove the undercoat under the chrome. Many times this is quite thick and acts like thick coats of paint that hide detail.