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Foxer

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Everything posted by Foxer

  1. Foxer

    Mint Julep

    An especially good looking chassis .. great detail on it!
  2. Foxer

    Fiat 500

    A good looking kit .. and build! Does it have an engine?
  3. mine takes about 2 weeks past the first to get it and it has to travel to New England. I has always arrived in near perfect condition. I expect the time is due to being passed through many transfer centers and still it arrives fine. Must be a few really bad processing machines out there tearing up mail.
  4. Came out looking really good! And have to say again, that paint job is very creative and spectacular!!
  5. Well, there's my problem ... thanks Jim. Was nothing on packaging saying it desired wood, but that makes sense now. The areas that had stick problem were bare, unscuffed plastic. It was better over primer, but time for another type.
  6. Oh Bob! STOP teasing us!! .. and I get mine loooong after Harry.....
  7. The spray cams of metalizer will work well on large surfaces, just like any spray can. It does cover very well and I've never buffed through a single coat, but most of what I've done is small pieces. Best to use a cotton cloth to polish, like you would on paint. A couple coats is probably best to protect raised detail. Sealer is a must after you're done polishing on all the buffing metalizers. It's very sensitive to soaking up just about every material known to man! I really like the look of the aluminum when buffed .. has a nice low level gloss/shine ... just about right. Try it on a piece of scrap plastic if you're not sure it will do what you want.
  8. I got this product at my LHS and thought it's packaging looked good compared to other epoxy. It does dispense well from the two separate bottles and seems it will last longer than most other epoxies I've used. Trouble is, I think it will hit the circular file because of it's seemingly unsuitable properties for MY model building. I'm wondering if anyone else has had the same results with this product. Since it was obtained at a hobby shop, I figured it would be hobby suitable. Maybe I'm using it for the wrong one! I am finding that the bond I'm getting leaves much to be desired. It actually peels off of bare plastic. With a little body flexing the bond is also broken. It defiantly doesn't cure as hard as most 5-minute epoxy I've used before, it feels almost soft and thin pieces that have unbonded are very flexible. Judging from their web site it is aimed at airplane and boat modelers. The extra flexibility I can understand, but the poor bond I'm getting is another matter.
  9. That sounds pretty durn reasonable to me.. just LOOK at what's in the kit.. more complete than any other resin piece I've seen!
  10. The body shop boys have been working late on the Vicky body and have it stripped, chopped and ready to receive the wheel wells. Took pics too fast and not much depth-of-field, but close enough enough to see where the body is going...
  11. oh cool! That's one old Subie!! ..looks good..
  12. Would I be safe in assuming Bernie doesn't go with the Politically Correct movement?
  13. Now those could be JUST what I've been looking for for some time ... something with that many slots to model a set of cheap wheels I had on a VW bug. They even have the VW rim "look" as far as the interior hole. Even a valve stem .. lovely!!
  14. Looking absolutely stunning!
  15. That IS gorgeous, Lyle! I really love the paint scheme ... is the body color off like you mentioned the wheels are in the photos?
  16. Yeah, I have a Hasegawa in the paint booth that got turned into a Kombi to match my Dad's old '56. The lack of much of an interior is a big disappointment for an other wise great kit. The interior is what gets me excited about this one. I have to repaint the stripe I did on the interior to give some semblance to an interior. Maybe I'll wait and see.... What excites me even more is it looks like the front VW emblem is molded separate! The Hasegawa is molded with the body and is very difficult to mask and paint.
  17. I'd love to see a copy of that article!
  18. Looks like the roof slope is going to be nice. I have a 49 on the bench that got that grill treatment but without a 2nd body. I molded the upper grill with modeling clay and ended up using epoxy to cast the grill. Was long ago so I don't remember the details, but thinking maybe I rolled the mold around until the epoxy set up. It is pretty thin as I look at it now. Just an alternate thought if you don't want to cutup another body. This is a post on the grill I had made: 49 Merc rounded grill shell
  19. Very cool .. and nice moving booms! Guess I've hate to see your shelves if they didn't move,
  20. Like many here, I believe, I'm a Vietnam Era veteran, though I was a Pershing Missile Erector/Launcher Operator in Germany in 67-69. The Pershing was the Army's largest weapon ever with around a 100 kilo ton nuclear warhead. The best part were the aluminum bodied, Chrysler powered, converted APC's that carried all the missile equipment. Unloaded and out on the Oklahoma prairie, they really flew!
  21. Welcome to the madhouse. You got some good starting advice above, so I though I'd give ya a take on how I start a kit. First, open the box and savor the parts, oogle and caress them ... well.. nevermind.. I like this part way too much. I start by trimming parts and sanding the mold lines off using the tools Scott mentioned above. Smoothing out the molding lines and the stubs from where they were attached to the sprue will go a long way in giving you a good looking build. It also gets you familiar with the kit pieces before you start gluing. This is a good time to also check the fit on the parts. Some sandpaper around 400 grit is also useful for this. There are many types of glue used by everyone here, but a liquid styrene glue and some gap filling super glue are the basic ones. I'm partial to Testor's Liquid Cement (black bottle with nice fine application tube build in), Ambroid Pro Weld Plastic Welder (very thin plastic glue, actually just a plastic solvent that runs into joints as they are held together), and Zap-A-Gap CA+ gap filling formula (I have had a 1oz bottle of this for 3 years and it has not clogged or dried up!) Just us the smallest amount of glue you can to stick it all together. Most of these glues don't need much to weld plastic. Above all, have fun and enjoy the building.
  22. Looks WAY too good for all those firsts. nice job!
  23. That's clean as a whistle! I especially like the paint. The metal particles/reflections look almost to scale ... very nice for a 1:1 paint.
  24. This is cool and looking good. Hot Wheels would never make a non-chromed painted wheel!
  25. Looking good and it's coming along well .. despite everyone's efforts to resist completion! May the Finish Be With You.
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