Chuck Most

Love it! Your custom version is better than AMT's custom version.

The Pro Modeler version on the bottom has printed wide whitewalls, and the other two do not- the whitewalls are provided as decals instead. Other than that, all three are the exact same kit. Oh, also-The PM version's instruction sheet is different- it has photos of the 1:1 car for various subassemblies to show how they are supposed to look.

And, going by what he is saying, that might have a corrected windshield opening. He's aware of that quirk in the original AMT kit, and has plans to work the correction into future versions of the cab.

Yeah... trouble is, the Pete isn't a truck. It's a tractor. Figured you of all people would know that...

Did this as a project for a CBP on another board- http://offroadmodels.proboards.com/thread/1475/build-memory-great-friend-larry?page=1 Here's the end result- The front bumper is scratch built, as is much of the suspension, which I made to look like a "long arm" lift setup. The winch and hook are resin from an unknown source, and the tires are from the Revell Wrangler Rubicon, with Monogram F-250 wheels. Basically it was just a "quick" and simple project, but it was spread out over the course of a few months as I got side tracked by other projects.

And in the end, if the ol' lady's happy isn't that all that matters?

Well.... I don't think it's my place to do any kind of bashing on an otherwise impressive kit just because the first run has iffy chrome plating, unless you're talking kitbashing. I'd rather just work around that. I might try that too- the Krylon will fog some chrome plating (that's why you always test it out first), Future won't, but the Krylon dries quite a bit faster.

Well, I do tend to be a "lemonade from lemons" kind of guy. I think I'll just try spraying some Krylon acrylic clear on the stuff I want to stay chromed for the time being.

I can tell you for a fact that at ALL the stores I've worked at, nobody lost their job because of the addition of self checkouts. In most cases, those lanes just replaced lanes that were closed during all but peak periods.

I'm not typically a fan of "retro" bolt-on type stuff for these SN197 Mustangs, but even saying that I do think those are cool.

Or maybe a now out-of-work cashier, digging a shallow grave meant for the self checkout that took his jerb...

Someone or something is digging holes in my backyard. I'm leaning toward it being Manbearpig, but of course nobody believes me...

Rusted? Yes. Peterbilt? Yes. Wrecker? Yes. Ugly? No! I'd say it's just the opposite.

The latest from Kris Morgan over at Morgan Automotive Detail. As usual, it's an extremely high quality piece- nicely cast and I'll be condemned if I can see where the modifications were made to the master. I don't have a Revell Merc Woody body to try it out on yet, but if past experience is any indicator regarding MAD bodies, it should be a drop-on replacement for the kit body.

Tom's right, they are pretty easy to make. I need to dig out the one I started a few years back. I just used some .040 Plastruct sheet, and if I recall the wheel openings have the rear fender flares from a Jeep CJ-5. It needs some bodywork and slam latches, that, and I need to remember where I put it...

Love it!

Nice! Makes me want to get back at doing the replica of my '94 F250

I'd say go for it! You don't see too many model trucks done up with service bodies.

In order... Nope, still not decided on FE or 385series big block yet. Chassis is a typical '70's AMT truck kit- all but the front crossmember molded in place, separate exhaust, suspensions, and fuel tank. I went with 2-wheel drive, the kit has a coil spring front suspension for the 4x4 model, which would be incorrect for an F250 or heavier truck.

I would buy a mansion, in some really snotty neighborhood, like Beverly Hills, or at least somewhere along the lines of Grosse Pointe. Then I'd let the lawn get weed choked and overgrown, and I'd have a '77 Trans Am up on blocks in the front yard, with a goat chained to the axle. Why? I don't know- I guess I'm just weird like that. I'd wisely invest whatever I did not spend on the mansion, Trans Am, and goat.

The weak chrome might be a benifit in one regard- past experience when it peels off that easily it usually doesn't stand a chance against your favorite chrome-stripping solvent of choice, and if you wanted to downgrade this from an XLT to an XL that chrome would need to go away anyhow...

You could, but if I recall the bellhousing and shifter position would be different for a 1:1 Ford or GM application, depending on how fussy you are about such things.

The Revell Wrangler Rubicon has a narrower version of those Mickey Thompson Baja Claws. But yeah, the 46" versions shown in the link would be nice!

I'd like to get another one and have the markings made to do it up like one in service in Dubai.

My '98 Mercury Tracer had almost as many miles on it when I quit driving it- never had the engine or trans apart or anything. I never even had to change the brake pads, and as far as I know those were original to the car, which had 176,000 highway on it when I got it. Sure, it went through its share of tires and other wear and maintenance items, but other than having to replace the starter at around 250,000, that car didn't owe me a dime. Even the AC still worked. Only reason I finally put it out to pasture is because it was one or two more winters away from not having floorboards anymore.