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Everything posted by dwc43
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Yeah, putting a new tire through one heat cycle is what we call "scuffing a tire in". Some tracks like scuffs better than stickers or new tires. I gave up drag racing a long time ago. I could only afford bracket racing and lets face it, that aint drag racing. Only heads up first to the line is what I consider drag racing. And since I run ovals now, I get to race a lot more than 11 secs at a time.
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I can a test to the fact of shaving tires. I think they have finally done away with out track, but I was racing a NASCAR G.N. Sportsman car on a 5/8 mile track. I built a 4 cyl car for a friend of mine to race at the same track on the inside 1/4 mile oval. They had to run a Falken track tire. We shaved 75% off of them and cut them at an angle to meet the track so the weight of the car planted them even further into the racing surface. The tires had to be shaved because the tread walks around or flexes. What this does is cause heat build up and that effects air pressures even though we tried to minimize that by using nitrogen in the tires. Shaving the tread down reduces the flexing as well and reduces heat build up even more. We ran Hoosier Comanche's on our Sportsman car which look kind of like a cheater slick. Has three rings of groves around the tire that are not very deep at all. Tires are about a 65 durometer and that's about the same as most street tires.
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Yeah, the power steering is kind of funny at that. As for truck tires, back in the day the first slicks were recapped truck tires from what I have heard and read. They were taller, wider and had those cleat marks that spilled over onto the outer top edges of the sidewall.
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none of these elements are past your skills Thanks for that vote of confidence. Anyways, I was going to use a diamond file to make four scores under the hat and strip some wire and glue those into the groves. I can leave them extra long to bend into the lines. I have a pin vise. Great little tool along with that chisel I bought some time ago too. I figured I'd tackle the distribution block, but that barrel valve, I aint so sure about. I thought I might be able to find a resin piece that looks more realistic. I did find one, but it comes with the hat and some other parts that I really don't need. Still might pick it up though.
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Great. I got it all in under the curve with a year or two to spare ... lol. I'll have to admit I did find more of the old truck tires without the whitewalls than I did with the whitewalls. Thanks.
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Thanks. And here's a pic of the 426. It's the worst out of the bunch.As you can see from the block and instructions it's split just at the bottom of the deck running front to rear making a top and bottom to the block instead of a right and left half like model kits are made. The fit on everything in it it just awful. Maybe this is the first proto type or something. The 392 had a solid block and only required a lot of sanding to true up the deck for the head and filing the intake to get it to fit. One valve cover had a huge high spot in it. It's the one on the right side. It was so high that the ends would not touch the head when you held it in place. As you can see in the first pic, I made it work though. It was not as bad as the other 426.
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I'm going to go with the chrome Et's. That will break up some of that all black frame. Wont be a lot of chrome cause I want it to look like it's my car built in the back garage on a budget. I have pics of two real cars that I am kinda patterning this one after. The caption under one pic says something like this. "Polish never subtracted one thousandth of a second in ET." All of the aluminum and the blower and such are plain dull satin finish in color on that engine. Thanks. I hope I can get it to turn out like I have visioned for it.Still need to pick up some parts and pieces to make more progress.
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Well, it's parts and pieces from a bunch of kits. The Frame and axle are from the AMT Digger 'Cuda. The engine is a Gibson resin job. I'll never buy one again that's for sure. I got a 392 and a Hilborn stack injection 426 in a deal with someone. The 392 was the best by far, but still a pile. The 426 is split front to back at the deck making a top and bottom instead of a left and right like most engines. At least the 392 had a solid block to work with. The magneto, ET Sprints, and some other pieces are M.A.D. or Scale Models by Chris. The steels are resin that I bought off of E Models. I have a driver from Comp Resin that I test fitted in it last night and could not believe it fit in the seat. It's the wrong suit and it's for another project anyways. I'll have to order it first before I can install any of the steering cause the mount bracket is between the drivers legs. Here's a link to the correct driver for this kind of car. http://www.compresins.com/site/751597/product/CRC-222 It's hard to see in this pic, but it does have the correct filter mask for this era if using nitro methane mix for fuel. I have the fuel pump for the front of the engine, but I need the valves that go on the hat if I am going to run the fuel lines for it. I have some braided line and need some fittings for it. Also want to plumb in the remote dual oil filters that I have for it too. If you know where to find the valves for the hat, and cheap lol, I'd be grateful.
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Thanks. I think I'll go with the ET's to break up some of that black. If I like it, I might build another one and do the chassis in red and use the steel wheels on it.
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What is a best set of slotted wheels in scale
dwc43 replied to Car Crazy 81's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
http://www.scalemodelingbychris.com/smbc_partsp2.htm Scale Modeling by Chris has these. They look really good. I've used them on a couple of models now. Here's what the fronts look like. I'm actually using them as rears for this one. I used the rears with steels on another model that required it. -
How about one that wins then you take it home and add a lot of details to it? I won with one that I built and then later on I added a driver with correct uniform, helmet and methane filtered mask, chute lines and tons of other details it did not have before.
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Can't decide on the rims for the slicks. ET Sprints or old steel ??
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The best way to do it and make it look real is to epoxy a short pice of tubing to the end of all 4 pipes then slide a piece of shrink tubing over the tube and 4 smaller tubes and heat it up. Once it shrinks it will form to the 4 smaller tubes. Then just paint it to match and it will look about as real as you can get it to look.
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I like that. Where did you get the kit at? Need more details. I know Freds Resin Works has a resin F body, and I found a couple old stock or custom kits, but I've never seen an F body drag car kit.
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By the way, if you just want to watch it, it's on You tube. It's broken down into episodes, so you just have to keep up with which one you are watching so you can go to the next one when it's done.
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Yes, it did. Cause he reached out the window and grabbed the bus drivers little girl and pulled her inside the car. You never did see his face, just his arms. Remember the tv show 240-Robert? The bus driver in this movie was the CHP chopper pilot in 240-Robert.
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Where ya goin' Hot foot?
dwc43 replied to RJWood's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I did that at the same place back in 2001 Feb. during speedweeks. I had flag stand seats at the 500. Had a foot long lens that could take decent shots of the back stretch. Even got a couple of pics from the crash where e was killed from where I was sitting at. -
IMCA open wheel dirt cars use the single lift bar with adjustable coil springs and shocks at the tranny too. They stand somewhat verticle and the angle is adjustable along with other factors. They need it since they run on 8" tires and wheels. When they stand on it out of a corner the rear lifts up really high and to the point that it starts to pick the front up too. Not off the ground mind you, but up off the springs putting max weight transfer to the rear wheels. It's a heck of a set up.
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Like the detail on the engine. Kinda prefer the Capri over those years of Mustangs too.
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They already have police car set ups. Check out there site and youtube vid. http://www.policecarmodels.com/siformopocas.html http://www.policecarmodels.com/miniatronics.html
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LOl, I'll have to take your word on that one, I just can't make it out. But, here's two more that people miss a lot. The white porcelain ballast resistor that goes to the + side of the coil and the water control valve that goes in the heater hose or hoses depending on style on '68 and later cars.
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Anytime. I've just owned enough Mopar with almost every engine they made, so I can catch stuff like that. I used to work for them too. Now I just restore them and race them. And don't worry about the phone. I have a $500 camera and sent some realy crappy pics to a guy I was trading with the other day. I just never could get the lighting and zoom worked out to get a good clear pic, but he got the point in the end. And as far as details go, I need to remember to start adding the oil dipstick to my engines. Keep forgetting to do that.
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Pretty cool. That would look good in some old '50's chop top low riders.
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Nice from what I can tell from the pics. I've got a Bee and I found a resin pitch fork hood so I can do an R/T when I get to it. I know you can't change it now, but when you do a big block with manifolds on it, the wires go under and behind the manifolds. I don't think I ever seen that done correctly though. I found some nice angle boots that I want to try out and that should be perfect for this kind of job. Check 'em out. http://www.rbmotion.com/sparkboot.html http://www.rbmotion.com/distriboot.html http://www.rbmotion.com/sparks.html
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Tell me about it. I'm trying to work up a good order between paying the bills .... LOL!!!