dwc43

Half way through this video is the two wheel drive class for those that have never seen this before. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Axfs6Dy8gps

I picked up a couple kits and partial kits from a trade on here. What I got is a Dodge long wheel base truck. I'm going to build a two wheel drive pulling truck and then I'm going to build the sled for it. I'm going to scratch build the frame cause that's what they use. Nothing is stock and these days even the bodies are fiberglass. Using a straight front axle and there's no suspension on the rear of these trucks. The rear axle just bolts to the frame work. It will have a 426 supercharged Hemi under the hood with pipes out the hood. The usual auto tranny, but I need input on the rear axle. Not sure what these things use. I have a good resin Dana 60 that I could use, but I am leaning towards another axle I have. It's appears to be a billet strange 9" Ford from the '70 Super Bee kit MPC. It's narrow for a pro street or drag car, but I found a way around that. IF you clip the lip where the brake backing plate would go, then you can slide a 5/32 aluminum tube over it and it will pretty much center itself and butt right up against the housing and then I can cut it the proper width. Paint it all aluminum and it should turn out good. So, what do you think, Dana, or 9" or, I may have a 5 ton left over from a Big Foot kit that might work too.

I've bought a couple kits and parts from them. Great stuff and it shipped pretty quick too. I'll buy again. They have a link for there other site with more products too. Same shipping address. http://www.chimneyvilledecals.com/11stli.html

I've bought a couple kits and parts from them. Great stuff and it shipped pretty quick too. I'll buy again.

Here's a link to Duck River speedway. http://www.duckriverspeedway.com/ You can find the rules there and a link to pages with pics if you want to check them out. I tried to find video of what they call the Stock or Super Stock cars. I used to drive them too. They look more like your everyday car with heavy mods for racing. You can read rules for yourself on that class though.

Thanks for the vids. That is interesting to say the least. Not sure which I like the best, asphalt or dirt. Now I just have more questions. Engine size ??, tracks look to be 1/4 mile or so. I did like to see them get 'em a little sideways on the dirt though. This is very short and not a very good video. It's from a small camera. It's a Chevy Monte Carlo at the Music City Motorlex during a practice session. This is a G.N. Sportsman car. 5/8 mile banked track. Chevy 350, Ford 351, Mopar 360 all on stock stroke crank, stock length rods, max overbore of .070. Run about 120 130 off into the corners. These are Late Model dirt cars from my local track of Duck River Speedway. I've raced against a few of these guys. These have pretty much run what you brung engines.Unlimited pretty much. They can turn a 1/4 in 12 secs. There's a shot at the front of this one showing a guy grooving the race tires for these modifieds One more. By the way, pay attention to them coming off the corner on the back straight. You can see them lift the LF tire off the track. They do it on both ends, but they seem to tote it off the ground longer down the back stretch. Could be because this track has two different corners compared to other tracks.

Here you go. Spark plugs, http://www.rbmotion.com/sparks.html Valve stems, http://www.rbmotion.com/valvestems.html Plug Boots, http://www.rbmotion.com/sparkboot.html Dist boots, http://www.rbmotion.com/distriboot.html How about the home page. http://www.rbmotion.com/index.html Check out the acorn nuts and lines and fittings and nuts and bolts. And get this, it's a new web site and they aint finished adding parts to the list yet as I understand it. As for the wing, It seems top heavy and with a rear driver position and mid engine it seems like it would make it very loose in the corners compared to out World of Outlaw cars that are a shorter wheels base with the fuel tank in rear making the engine sit more forward. Not sure what I will race this year. Nashville wants to do away with the race track and fairgrounds so I want have anywhere in towing distance to race my NASCAR Gran National Sportsman car. I still have two of my old dirt track cars that I could rebuild in short order. I also have some F body Mopar chassis that I could build up to run SCCA road courses with. And that is what I am really leaning towards doing. I ran some a few years ago with some pretty good success right out of the trailer.

Oh, talk about coil overs, have you seen these. http://www.rbmotion.com/shocks.html Dying to buy a set to try out on something.

Ahhh, I see. British rules... lol. Still look like it's off to a good start though. I was at Hobby Town about an hour ago. Saw a 40 Ford kit that is made for an open wheel dirt or asphalt car. I thought about getting it to make something sort of like you have started here. Your build has inspired and got my mind working on something, but I need a plan first .... lol.

Off to a good start so far. One thing, the wing is kinda wrong. Drivers side should hang down and passenger side goes up. One other thing that I think ight look better is to change your front bar. Have it run with the frame over the coil over mount and then down to the frame. But, it does look good and can't wait to see the end product.

Try embossing powder. You can get it in different colors or get black and paint it.

Why not use these. http://www.lpstech.com/distributors.htm#8%20Cylinder%20Distributors They have the correct wire colors, cap colors and they look correct. Only way to go.

Probably too big for a 1/24 or 25. Good idea though.

Welcome,anytime. I usually get mine in about a week I think, but I have not bought anything from them in a couple months. Purple has a pretty good idea there too.

Why not try these and glue them around the edges. http://modelcargarage.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=0&idproduct=411

There's a real easy way to make your own. Get some aluminum tubing in the correct size and put it in a flare tool used for making fuel lines with fittings and such. I have two of them. A single flair would look just like the opening of a velocity stack and then you could cut them off to the length you want. Just don't use the second part of the tool that is used to make the double flare. Here's a link to one of the tools, but you can find them much cheaper than this if you look for them. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-4503/?rtype=10 Here's one that is only 9 bucks, but might not go small enough. Not sure, you be the judge. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5969

I just got through watching it again while I was working on my GTX. I know the stock footage was real, but I was talking about Stroker's T Bird. Especially when he is driving it as well as Aubry James car too. You can see the factory glass with the buttons left on that held the rear view mirrors in several shots. You can see all the factory webbing around the A post and roof area that would not have been on a real race car of any type of that era. In some scenes it has a Moroso cable drive tach and in some there are Sun Pro tachs and they are not working or any of the gauges while the car is in motion. That scene where Stroker blows the engine and slides to the infield grass, the stock front strut collapses as the car leaves the banking and hits the apron too. There's a pit scene where the car comes in and it's bouncing on the front struts like crazy. Had to be a V6 car at that point. Sometimes when it leaves the pits you can hear the V6 with straight pipes on it. Other times it has a V8 when it manages to spin the rear tires. They did not even bother to radius the wheel openings on the car to make it look right and lower it to the minimum 4" clearance they used. Looks like a 4x4 with those slicks on the car and it not lowered down properly. They are decent fakes though, but a real race fan would catch that in a heart beat.

I have a 2 gallon and a 25 gallon CH compressor. They are both in the nosy side. They will quieten down a little after break in though. Not much. One reason they make so much noise is because they are direct drive. Motor hooks straight to the compressors rod. All compressors made like this tend to be noisy compared to the other types that use belts to drive the compressors. They make them like that so they can be sealed up and there's no oil to change in these types of compressors.

Thanks guys. I just knew someone had that answer. I can't believe that someone made the decals for that car too. That movie was somewhere between funny and real stupid. And most of the fake race cars were V6 powered too.

Stroker Ace Chicken Pit Special Ford Thunderbird. Was that car number 7 ?? IF so, I just found a set of Fred Caddy decals to do that car with. It has to be #7. I just don't recall a real NASCAR race car with Chicken Pit on the side of it.

This one would have been a better version for a movie using most of the original cast. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCIflgviF7A

If you want real looking dist caps with wiring use this guy instead of making your own or using the all metal ones that don't simulate the stock caps or contours of the dist shaft. He even makes an HEI cap dist. http://www.lpstech.com/distributors.htm When doing Mopar big block engines, get the dist in the correct place at the right angle. Seen way too many in the wrong place or to straight up or even on the wrong side. And dual plug Hemi engines don't use two dist. They use one dist with a drive base added to the shaft with a second cap added to the drive unit. Seen that done up wrong on a lot of them. If you want realistic colors, you can by engine paint at any parts store or order it from www.summitracing.com You can get the correct colors from the manf. or after marker paint as well.

In his defense, that is the truck that comes in the 240 Robert Kit. I'm making one from scratch sorta from a different Bronco, but I'll have to see if I can cut the sunroof in it to get it exactly correct.

Love the coffee and doughnuts on the dash.

The original car was built by Dodge and PPG industries to be used as a Pace Care for the Indy 500. 6 prop cars were built, 4 of which were dummies and were destroyed during filming.The other two built were used as stunt cars. The original Indy pace car is in a museum along with a couple other test cars that were built to test areo. I'll see if I have a pic of those and post them up too. If I recall correctly the Indy car could do close to 200 mph I've got a poster somewhere that all of the Indy Pace Cars on it since the very first Pace Car. And the MS+4 is on that poster of course.